Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Intermittent ABS Dash Light On
Jun 24, 2016
I looked around for ABS issues but did not find anything to my question .. Mine started last summer running along interstate light just popped one I had just run over some paper and stuff tossed out by a diver food bags and stuff so I figured maybe some trash go into the area under wheel sensor I stopped a bit later for fuel and lite did nit come back on at start up.. Did not come on again for several weeks I scanned the system said faulty sensor circuit .
My son in Law has a mech. at his dealership to look it over he plopped a new sensor in it .. Light came back on again a day or so later I think there is a bad connection at some point .. I took the one at the wheel and the one right at the fender well liner a my scanner said it was right or passenger side front both times I scanned it .
My question is, how many more connections there is its almost impossible for my crippled up to crawl and climb all over and under the thing to clean the connectors and add some dielectric grease. 05 S/D 6.0 turbo....
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I bought my 2005 F-350 Diesel 6.0 Brand New. Whenever my low fuel light comes on, I only have a few miles to go before I run out of diesel. Is there a way to adjust this light so it will come on with maybe 20-30 miles to go before running out? Its seems to only have maybe a gallon in the tank when this light comes on...
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Over the last two weeks I have had an intermittent no start on my 2005 F350 6.0. on four different occasions. With enough cranking and charging batteries it would start again. I am running a scangauge, during these no-starts ICP was at 200. I pulled the IPR and the screen was damaged so I ordered a new one thinking the IPR would fail intermittently. Replaced the IPR last night with a new one, and truck ran great. Started it three different times with no problems and let it run about twenty minutes.
This morning, another no-start, but IPR is at 1162 psi now during cranking. I am thinking fuel delivery now, but have not yet checked fuel pressure, I need to find an adapter for the M12-1.5 port on the secondary fuel filter.
Details: 2005 F350 6.0 SRW 150,000 miles 4x4
Studded a year ago
New oil cooler a year ago
Upgraded STC fitting a year ago
Coolant system flushed and coolant replaced with ELC months prior to cooler change
Coolant filter installed months prior to cooler change
EGR Delete
Scangauge II
Plenty of Oil
New Motorcraft Fuel Filters
Fuel Filter Bowl fills fast during KOEO
LPO registering on dash gauge during long crank
1162 PSI ICP during crank
37% IPR during crank
FICM voltage 48 - 47.5v during crank and run
Batteries tested good last week
SYC = 1 (last night while running)
Codes: Threw a code this morning during long crank "P2614 - Camshaft position output circuit" - One forum stated that this code will appear during long cranks - don't think this is my problem. This is the only code that it has kicked out during this issue.
Fuel Pressure = UNKNOWN
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0. Its an XLT Trim but i want the features of a Lariat. would a Dash Swap Work or is it pointless?
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2006 F250, 6.0, AT, 59K. Week and a half ago, started cranking slow. I charged the batteries and checked with a professional load tester. Both batteries good, but voltage was fluctuating and tester said charging system needs service (no battery light). I swapped in a remand alternator as a new was not available that day. It lasted 6 days and this time the battery light was intermittent.
I checked voltage and again it was fluctuating. I swapped in another remand unit and 3 days later, same thing, intermittent battery light and fluctuating voltage. I'm installing a new, not remand unit tomorrow. However, could a bad FICM cause this problem? I noticed that the engine seems louder (not the exhaust note) at idle. This truck is clean and I have no corrosion issues. What is the right direction to test the FICM?
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My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
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My 4wd went out in my 2011 Superduty, the light comes on, i can feel an engagement but then I get check 4wd light on the dash. I stopped to look in the fuse box for a blown fuse but there is no panel cover there.... Im trying to locate this fuse so I can stop to the store real quick on my way home.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
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1999 F250 Super Duty 6.8 V10 4x4 157k miles
On Friday afternoon the ABS light on my dash came up, ran the codes on my SCT Livewire and came up with a "P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A"
What should I be going after? Rear speed sensor? Front ABS sensors? Transmission speed sensor?
Speedometer is functioning 90% of the time, twice in the last 48 hours it wouldn't then shift hard and I would pull off to reset.
I have looked over the search results and wondered if there is a way to test the sensor with my multi-meter? Seems quite a bit of people had flashing over-drive light's at the same time, which I do not.
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My 450 has all power to lights and aux but no dash lights and only the airbag light will illuminate on the dash and the truck won't start there is absolutely any power being transferred to the starter. It only happens after rain or increasing humidity it seems.
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I gave my truck a little more gas to hold my speed up the hill to my exit and as I did the truck downshifted. As it downshifted, my tranny light on the dash came on and stayed on. I drove the mile or so from exit to my parking lot and here it sits. Drives fine, shifts fine, and doesn't smell. It needs to be able to make that hour long drive home Thursday night. Is it okay to drive? Is there something I need to do? It's an 06 F-250 5.4.
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The battery light is on on the dash. I checked both batteries with the ground wire removed, and they show 12.85 and 12.84 volts, they are clean and not in need of water. The battery light will go out after around 15 minutes on the highway, but not around town, and if I shut off the truck in town, the next start is at a very reduced amperage. Alternator packing it in?
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My 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
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On my 05 Super Duty, the gauge light for the fuel and oil pressure are out. The needles are still illuminated red but the backlight for the gauges are dark. Are these replaceable bulbs or are they a circuit board diode or something that can't be easily replaced?
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2004, cc/lb 6.0 ... I get in the truck and the dome lights come on, key the ignition and they stay on though they should go off, start truck and they still stay on until I reach 5 mph. Door ajar light is illuminated on the dash. If the truck is off and I open the drivers door, the domes will come on, they will not come on if I open the other three doors. I just replaced the switch on the drivers door and no change.
I held the trip button and started the engine. I kept tapping the button until "door 40" came up. When I opened the drivers door it would change from 40 to CO. When I opened the other doors, it would stay at 40.
I did notice that once I had the drivers door open and completely off the latch and my hands off the door handle, I would move the door and it would then change from 40 to CO. At this point the latch switch is out of the picture. So if i move the door slightly open/close it would switch from 40 to CO when the door is nearly closed. Is there another switch or sensor somewhere near the hinges?
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So we had a subzero weather week last week and on one of the below zero days by low tire pressure light goes on - on my dash. I've checked all 4 tires and they are not low. Do I have a bad sensor? Or is the cold causing this?
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2001 Ford F-250 7.3 Lariat, Crew cab, 8 ft bed. Have had the truck since about 2007 and 4x4 has never worked. It has the typical ford "self rotting" vacuum lines (which have all been replaced along with the hubs themselves). Took it to a mechanic a few years back and he n-word rigged it (for a lack of a better word) and bypassed a lot of vacuum stuff and it still didn't work. The weird part is this-- the 4x4 light is permanently on on the dash, even if the switch is in the 2wd position. Flip the switch and nothing happens. No sounds, nothing. No mechanic can fix it and I have yet to find a forum with someone having the same problem. (Worth manual transfer case swapping it?)
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The light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
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This is my "03 F350 single wheel 7.3 automatic 4x4. For quite some time now I have to manually lock the front hubs. Maybe it would work automatically, maybe not, and now I always have to manually lock the hubs.....but I can live with that. The problem now is that the selector switch on the dash isn't working or something else is preventing the transfer case from going into 4x4. The 4x4 light on the dash also does not come on.
I have checked all the fuses and they are good, I do not have a owners manual so I don't know what to look for in the fusebox. Perhaps it is on a relay? Also, I would like to check the dash switch for power coming and going but how do I get the switch out of the dash? I'm afraid I'll break the bezel around the switch if I pry too much.
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2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
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1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
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