Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Injector Plug Cord Location To Heat Injectors?
Jan 9, 2017
2005 Ford F-250 6.0 FX4 Quadcab
Where is the cord to plug in to heat injectors on this model? Or does this model not come with the cord to plug in?
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Would someone with a 00-07 take a picture of there 7 pin power/signal/heat/ mirror plug for me? I need the pin location of each of the wires because my aftermarket ones do not have the same colors as the factory plugs.
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My engine light came on a friend of mine did a scan and came up with o2s12 showing low voltage.we need to know which side and location of sensor..the truck is a 2005 ford f250 super duty 5.4l.
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My 2005 F250 started stuttering, lurching, having wild swings in rpms, nearly dying at stop signs, no pickup when stepping on the gas, then taking off like a bat outta hell. After reading many, many posts here and on other sites, I have concluded that the most likely culprit is the ICP sensor, so I picked one up today (along with a EBP sensor - another story). It appears from the many posts that I have read that Ford/Navistar have frequently changed the location of these sensors. My question is: Where are the ICP and EBP sensors located on the 2005s (actual manufacture date is 07/2004)?
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I have a 2005 f250 with a 5.4l 3v. Where the pcv valve is located is it in the valve cover or attached to the intake and what does it look like? I have pulled the hoses off both sides but I have not found it let.
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Why there is an electric cord running to my rear view mirror?
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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I have 1999 7.3, stock. I am getting oil to injectors on passenger side but none on drivers side.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty with the 5.4 liter gasoline engine. I started on a 120 mile trip last week and got about mile from home when it just shut down. I walked back home and got the wife's Tahoe and pulled it back home.
I got it in the shop and started to try & figure what had happened. I'm not a mechanic but I am a fair DIYer so I spent a lot of time with my friend GOOGLE. I originally expected the problem to be the fuel pump. I could not check fuel pressure because this model does not have the port in order to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. I could hear the pump run when the ignition was turned on so I looked a little deeper. I checked that it was firing and even shot some starting fluid into the breather to see if it would run with that, which it did.
At this point I turned back to the fuel supply. I learned from google that the injectors were supposed to have a constant 12 volts so out came the meter and low and behold no voltage on any of the injectors. I had already checked EVERY fuse on the truck and didn't find any burnt ones. I took the meter and rechecked all that had anything to do with the PCM (by reading the fuse description from the owners manual). My old eyes had actually missed the burnt one. Number 23 a 30 amp fuse. I replaced it and it immediately blew also.
I started checking continuity to ground on the injector plugs and found that I had a direct short to ground. I needed a wiring diagram for the injector circuit. I searched and searched some more for one that matched my vehicle. I even bought a repair manual from my local Auto Zone. This book didn't even have the diagram I needed! I finally found a diagram From Auto Zone's website for a 2000 expedition.
It at least gave me an idea of what other items were powered by this same circuit. I learned that the 02 sensors are on the same circuit so I crawled under the truck & started searching. I found that the up stream 02 sensor on bank 2 had gotten against the exhaust and created the short. I unplugged it and rechecked continuity to ground and found that my shot was no longer there. I took the sensor out repaired the burnt wire and reinstalled. I hooked everything back up and the ole truck fired right up.
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03 F250 250k+ miles has a sputter when lugging, instead of down shifting just lug it for a sec and feels like a bad coil pack missing or water in gas miss but smooths out as soon as rpm's are up.
How long can you go on a set of factory injectors?
A friend gave me a set of pink injectors from his mustang but I have orange ones in the truck. Just wondering if the swap is possible and what effects it would have. A chart I pulled up showed that the orange ones are #19 and the pink ones are #22.
Still getting around 13 mpg but losing power, wondered if they are worn and putting in to much fuel, or just not giving the proper mist.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-250 6.0 power stroke, the previous owner got water in the tank, rusted the injectors, and destroyed the pump, I changed the pump and 2 injectors, it still died. It has 300K miles on, pretty high. Right now all symptom is the motor is starving for fuel, because the injectors are leaking, getting air in it. When I pull the fuel filter out, it is full of dirt, And swollen up because of water. So, I am planning to flush the tank, get rid of the water and then replace the injectors. Could there be any damage on the motor ? Engine problems? I know 6.0 is a bad design, but apart from getting rid of it, how could I fix ?
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2006 6.0 superduty showing low circuit codes on all 8 cylinders so i checked the FICM and it has 48v when key is on and while turning engine over. What to check next?
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2007 F350 6.0 .. I let the truck sit for about a week went out to start it truck cranked right up then died now the truck wont start truck was running fine until this I wasn't having any starting problems. the codes are all eight injectors low circuit tested ficm had 48.3 volts...
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This is my first Ford. 2008 6.4L 165K miles full delete. Bought this truck at auction already deleted. Found an H&S pod mount instructions in glove box and so I am thinking it had their software loaded to it. I knew it had sat a while, but did fire up no problems. I have already replaced all fuel filters (actually learned I did them backwards, and did not cycle the key) and had no issues re-starting! I've put at minimum 30 minutes but no more than 1 hour run time on this thing post filter change. I'll get to the gritty. . This all started when I pulled a P0201 code for Injector Cylinder 1.
I pulled the valve cover to troubleshoot the injector, following a post I saw few days back. All checked out fine with the #1 compared with #3, and so I cracked loose the fuel line going to the #1 injector. The line was dry and thought it was strange, but I had changed out the FRP sensor prior and remember no fuel came out then either. Before pulling into the garage the truck was running rough but thought this was due to a P0193 code FRP pressure Circuit High (again). So I put the line back on, tightened the darn out of it.
I know these things see a 26K psi at times. I depressed the Schrader valve at the fuel cooler and got only a minute bit of air out. I didn't think this was enough, and so I took the Schrader valve out, hard lesson learned. I re-installed it and I fashioned a homemade tool connected the Schrader valve with a ball valve to cycle the key-on and purge out the air. I have ran the batteries down cranking trying to get it to fire. I am now getting no more air bubbles.
Had to get another diesel pickup to keep juice on the batteries. After 3 hours, 6 hours total, cannot get this thing to fire off! Am I missing something simple? Everything I have done to this point before reading the forum I have done backwards and all has been fine! Could it be that just now I am seeing the effect of the filter change being done backwards? On my scanner I can see the live FRP, it has to be the cmd, it is sitting at 29Kpsi. At this point should I re-pull the filters and start fresh?
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uper Duty 6.2L ... Alright, the loud cam phaser or fuel injector noise/tap..Is this just a cold weather issue or is this going to be like this all the time under start up? Mine was quiet until now (1200 miles) now under cold start loud knock/tap sound. Seemed to go away when truck warmed up and was idling. Was or Is there any fix to this noise.
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2001 f350 7.3 Changed front injector drivers side inspected all 4 glow plugs on this side turned motor over my hand 5 time reinstalled plugs put back together hooked both plugs back up started truck and no of the cylinder on drivers side are firing checked them with temp gun!! what did i not do or do wrong.
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Traveling cross country & got a check engine light telling me "injector control pressure low". Replaced ICP sensor and injector pressure control regulator. Removed old one and installed the new one.
While looking for one of the nuts that attach the glow plug relay in the valley I found a small round part looks like maybe a valve seat. About 1/2" round with maybe a 1/4" four flute spline in the center. Has an o-ring on one end.
Is this something that followed the old ICPR out and fell off the end when It cleared the mounting hole? It looks like the ICPR would bear against this little thing.
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Besides the window tag and the door tag, where are other VINs located? The VIN tag in the window looks suspect and there is no door tag. (I covered the first 11 digits of the VIN.) Also, I found a tag on the front pass side of the bed that I've never seen before (mounted between the bed and the cab). What this is?
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Just noticed something funny yesterday while flushing my radiator. I have an 04 F350 with the 6.0. When I have the heat set to come out both high and low vents, the A/C compressor also kicks on. The pipes by the passenger side firewall get cold. If I set the heat to just come out high or low, it turns off. This is not with the defroster on. Why does this happen? Is it supposed to happen?
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