2005 5.4l... Its giving me a code p0506 rpm to low idle air control system called for new one they said my truck don't have one said only up to 04 so what now truck idles rough n when u step on it it misses so bad its not funny feels like its laying over...
View 3 RepliesOk so my F250 died last night. I read the Pcodes and came up with P2198 and P0506. I am pretty good with fixing the truck but need to know exactly what is wrong.
View 5 RepliesSo, I have a 2007 f250 with the 6.0. When she's cold she starts fine but runs rough like she has a miss. When she warms up the miss goes away and it runs pretty good. But if I shut it off it won't start for about an hour or so.
ICP sensor has been replaced.
FICM is putting out 50v
I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 7.3 ford the seal in the turbo went and oil went in the exhaust. lots of oil like 10 quarts. I had a rebuilt turbo installed ran great for 2 weeks then one day out of the blue started idling rough and then downward from there no power stalling etc I have my super chip scanner it read dtcs of 1249 478 1211 and 238. Is it possible the muffler is plugged with oil? or is it and ipr? 193000 miles....
View 3 RepliesI'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
View 12 RepliesI have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 5.4L, 118,000miles...engine seems to idle somewhat rough but tach doesn't seem to move off 1000rpm & when giving slight acceleration seems to act like its missing, shaking . But under acceleration moderate or high purrs like a kitten! Always starts good , few cranks. Any hints on the what issue might be?
View 2 RepliesIt has 100k on the clock. I bought it about 2 years ago and only put about 500 miles on it. It is only used as a farm truck. Historically it would periodically die at idle in park. Would always start up immediately and run fine. Plenty of power.
Today the truck started up and idled a few seconds and started idling rough. It died and would restart but has zero power. Put it in gear and it would die. Did this a few times now can't even get it started.
I checked all fuses. I checked the dist cap and rotor. Don't look the best but don't think this is the problem. I get the same result on both front and rear tanks. From what I have read sounds like a fuel pump or regulator. Where is the regulator located?
1997 F450 superduty 7.5 gas ...
2001 V10- F250.. Runs rough- had the computer put on it and was coming up with P0174 codes (I think that is right)- In any case I replaced the Mass air flow sensor- checked for any vacuum leaks visually- I did not see anything obvious.... still runs like crap.... smells like gas when idling.... anything else I can check??? The check engine light went off finally (probably due to the MAF)- but it's driving me nuts- Any hoses I have not located I need to check?
View 10 RepliesI have a 99 f250 5.4l 2v with 165000. just two weeks ago i went to start up the truck on a job site to take lunch and it was running really rough. I talked with a mechanic at my shop and he said that it sounded like the aic or that i needed plugs. I went and bought aic and plugs and installed them all in one day. I unhooked the battery before i did any work and have changed the coil packs about 3-4 months ago when it was jerking at highway speeds. I am at a loss.
Read so much on the site about could be this or that and cant afford to through money at it like the govt does. I replaced the ait(air intake temp sensor) and the ect(engine coolant sensor) after i got a code from oreillys that said p0113 which is high input on it. I have read it can be so many things and it seems to be running rich because i am getting about half of mileage i was getting before problem started. i need a fix soon as i must drive the truck to work everyday which is a 52 mile trip total.
I have a 2005 f250 with a 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with a cracked passenger side exhaust manifold about a year ago. We'll here recently the crack got worse and was giving the code P0171, so I had a shop replace it. I picked the truck up and not even a mile down the road it started idling terrible at lights and had very poor acceleration. And it gave me P0174 this time. It's only gotten worse now it's reading P0172, P0174,P0161, and P1489. I've replaced the spark plugs, MAF sensor, both vct solenoid, an the upstream o2 sensor on the passenger side. I also know I don't have any intake or vacuum leaks, I've had a shop check and so have I. It's starting to get expensive just replacing stuff. So, maybe I have a clogged catalytic converter ?
View 8 RepliesMy 05 f250 v10 runs rough at points and sometimes quits when driving. I find it too that I can't rev it in park or neutral and sometimes when it is cold I can. I was wondering if it was a tps or something with the intake...
View 6 Replies2005 250 5-speed total oil pressure loss ... At 110k mechanic diagnosed failing phasers from noise, rough idle, loss of power under 1k rpm. (Crew cab long box xl bought new for $25k)(first 100k were from carpenters (hard miles) so this truck is barebones and usefulness is much higher than cash value). Truck has 146k
All symptoms typically disappear over 1k rpm so I have limited idle time and manipulated engine speed to try and maintain 1000-1200 and all has been well for past 36k miles. Today noise (valve clatter?) persisted at all rpm and during a scramble to get off the highway all oil pressure was lost (I'm aware that pressure gauge on dash is not 100% reliable). After total pressure loss I cut engine and called tow truck. Out of curiosity, I actuated ignition and motor cranked maybe two rotations, and then appeared seized. After about 45 min waiting for tow I went back to disengage 4wd and take my rifles and skis out of truck. At this time I actuated ignition again and engine fired and ran as it had for past 36k miles. I drove about one mile constantly watching oil pressure gauge, then noise returned followed by instant drop from normal to 0 pressure (dash gauge) I immediately shut of engine.
I am a mechanical engineer, but not a mechanic. I am familiar with the cam phaser system and I understand that their operation is directly related to oil pressure. Today's temp was under 0'F. I have a very skilled mechanic who works for around 30-40% of cost of licensed shop and I know his skills to be on par.
My truck has been doing this for a while now but it has progressively gotten worse from about three months ago when I went through some deep water. I don't believe it had to much to do with the water, I just think that the water is what didn't deal the situation and lead to the problem becoming more prevalent. But continuing, yesterday it got down into the high 20's and my engine started acting up (rumbling coughing, surging while at/leaving complete stops) and then it finally through a code for once and I head over to the neighborhood AutoZone expecting to get a lean code (because when the engine is acting up really badly I can unplug the fourth cylinder fuel injector without the engine acting any differently) but instead I received the p1152 (bank two lack of switching (rich)) code....
At this point I believe it is a faulty fuel pressure regulator, but without a good diagnostic obd2 reader or a fuel pressure gauge I'm not sure what to do. I'm currently in college, money is low, and I'm trying to take an accurate shot at the part that needs to be replaced so that I don't have to buy more than one part. Of course AutoZone says o2 sensor but I changed both about five months ago.. I've been chasing this diagnosis around for way too long now. (It's on a 2002 ford f250 5.4l super duty)
Having a somewhat scary problem.....my truck is already a rough ride due to the fabtech lift and the 37's and you get a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Its a rough ride down the highway but where it gets scary is at lower than highway speeds like 35-45 range. I can hit a bump and it will send the trucl into this insane cavitation that will literally shale the fillings out of your teeth. I cannot tell if it is in the drive wheels or the front wheels. The best way I can describe it is that its like trying to push a buggy in wal mart with a bad caster wheel on it. It feels like you are about to have a wheel fall off or that its broken off a tie rod or something. Then you simply slow down to a stop and you can drive right on like nothing was wrong. The vibration or shaking does not slow down with the speed. I cannot find anything obvious broken or damaged but this thing is getting dangerous to drive.
05 F350 DRW Fabtech 6 inch lift and 37's. 114k miles.
Ok says injector pressure sensor low first guess was the upgrade to the blue spring. Did that code clear for a day then comes back on looking at the hfcm but kinda unsure? Came on after we got the real cold snap and i had to buy a block heater I don't see one on here i also added diesel 911 to the tank this is a 05 f250 w 6.0l....
View 2 RepliesMy truck started acting up the other day with a flashing Tow/Haul light and CEL. The codes for the transmission were P0752 and P2700. I swapped out the SSPC-A solenoid unhooked the batteries for an hour and there was no change.
I hooked up a 100lb oil pressure gauge to the 1/8"npt outlet on the side of the tranny. At startup it immediately pegged the gauge....forever, lol. The gauge is toast now. Upon starting is has oil pressure visible in the see through line of the oil pressure gauge. But....if you tap the throttle in park for a second, the line looses pressure (by seeing the oil go back toward the transmission). Without pressure, when you put it in drive, it takes about 5 seconds at idle to build pressure and engage. If you give it the slightest throttle before engagement, it won't engage.
Also, as probably expected, the transmission hunts a bit with rough shifting.
I can't remember my door code and don't want to take it to the ford dealership and pay. I know there is a code up under somewhere but I can't find it? 2005 f-250 lariat.
View 10 RepliesI had a 05 f350 5.4 3v come into my shop with a CEL. Did the usual it had a p0307. So I did the usual again changed plug and coil plug cam out no prob they were done 15k ago. Test drove a few times and it was fine. Few days later customer brought back with same code p0307. thought maybe I got a bad plug or coil so I moved them to #6, misfire stays on #7. When I drive it local its fine when I go to pull on to highway and really put my foot in it CEL flashes (misfire) and it pings like crazy and loses all power. Scan it back at shop and still only p0307!!
View 10 RepliesMy 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!