So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
View 6 RepliesI've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
My 2011 F-250 just started having a weird heater problem. My truck heater gets up to temp just fine but after cruising down the highway for about 15 minutes or so it starts blowing out cool air. I can turn the controls to defrost and back again and it blows warm, not hot but warm then cool again. It just started a couple of days ago. Temp gauges show normal temp also.
View 8 RepliesI was driving from home to work the other day and it was 6 degrees out. My heat was working good and everything was fine and then all of a sudden the passenger side started blowing cool air. Not cold not warm. Driver side was still hot. It is a lariat and has dual temp zones. Everything I read everyone says blender doors but what would make it stop working out of no where when everything was fine. Occasionally when I start my truck and turn the heat on it makes a popping noise under the dash when the blower kicks on. But it has done this since I owned it an never had an issue. It's 25 below today and I would really love to have completely functional heat. It's an 2008 f350.
View 14 RepliesThe heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
View 2 RepliesI took the dive into a new heater core, as the heater was not getting hot. These are the things I did while on my adventure.
1. Before reinstalling the hoses, I blew thru them to make sure of no clogs...water flew out the other hose..no problem..no clog.
2. inspected mix door not cracked or broken...no problem
3.actuator opens and closes ok, I assume, I can hear the motor run and the door thump closed...no problem
4. water and anti freeze level good....no problem
Start vehicle,let warm up, turn on heat.....No Heat...
5. check hoses at core, one is hot ,the other is not....Problem...
1997 f150 4x4 ...
2006 F250 6.0L CC Lariat with Climate Control
- 1st Start in morning, AC Blows cold.
- Run it down the Interstate AC Blows cold.
- Get back into traffic, slow speed, low RPM, AC doesn't cool.
Is this likely the clutch going South or low Freon perhaps? At higher RPMs, 1000+ seems to work good. At idle, when hot, not so much. Just looking for possibilities.
I have a 2003 Super Duty 6.0. The trouble started almost all at once. It started fine, then I drove it for a while and on hot start, it cranked for a long time before starting. This went on for a few days, then today it wouldn't restart even when cool after not being driven for hours. I have a code P2285 and code P2285 P that has been on for a month or so. I know that the P2285 is the ICP. I don't know and can't find out what the "P" is at the end of the code. Anyways, I want to repair it myself. I have experience doing pretty major repairs, so it doesn't scare me. The problem is I am new to the diesel world. So come one and come all with possible scenarios and I will Go right down the list.
View 3 RepliesI recently purchased a 2011 F-350 w/6.7 diesel. When I first start it & let it run say 30 seconds and take off it shifts fine from 1 to 2 but when it goes from 2-3 it hangs there a second and then finally shifts into 3rd hard. 3rd to 4th is ok but 4-5 again is a hard shift and from 5 to 6 is OK. It will do this for a while like through the neighborhood and down the road 10 miles then it is fine. Shifts beautifully when warmed up.
My local Ford dealer has a guy that is supposed to be very knowledgeable with Super Duty trucks. I have had it to him twice and he says this is normal. All shift hard until the transmission is up to operating temperature. Says the engine is very powerful and until everything is up to temperature this will happen. If so then it would be normal to let it sit and run for a while before you take off in the morning. I am getting ready to hook the truck up to my 33' camper and go on our first camping season with the trailer/truck combination and if I need to leave it sit and warm up I will.
I bought a used 99 f250 v10, i went to turn on the a/c today, and it only blows where the defrost is toward the window. it gets cold after awhile, but nothing out the vents, the heat either.
View 9 Replies2002, F250, 5.4, ZF6, 140k.
My heat only blows through the defroster. I was looking for my vacuum pump, but can't seem to find it. I find plenty of diesel threads where they show it, but mine isn't in the same location. I can actuate the diverter by hand and it will make the heat stop at the defroster and come out at your feet.
I have attached images of my rig.
Were to look for the vacuum pump? Any key spots to look for failed vacuum lines? What is this?
This is where most threads say the vacuum pump should be.
This switches from defrost to floor when operated manually.
I have a early 2003 SD with the 5.4 triton. It has a oil leak on the passenger side, the oil blows back and gets on the exhaust.
I have been under the truck with the engine running looking at where the head meets the block and at where the valve cover meets the head and can not see a leak.
Sitting there running at idle it does not drip a drop off the engine but the entire underside of the truck is coated in oil.
I did notice that the depression around one of the upper valve cover bolts was filled with oil, I cleaned out the oil, let the truck run and it stays dry.
2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
View 5 RepliesThe truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
My truck is a 2000 f350 with a 7.3 init but when I shut it off and open the doors the power is still on in the truck and ac blows then shuts off. Relays are going crazy and I can not find the problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
View 1 RepliesIs there a filter for the AC somewhere?
2001 F-350 gas
The air blows cold but it smells like something died in side it somewhere.
Its hot in St. Louis and my windshield sure is staying cold (ac blows from defrost vents only).
1999 Ford F350 7.3 diesel 4x4 (4x4 lever on the floor). About a month ago, the ac starts blowing out of the defrost vents only. I assumed it was a vacuum issue.
Lines looked good; very plyable still. Canister looked fine. The vacuum pump on the pass fender well smelled burnt, so I replaced it. Got the new pump in and it didn't work. Checked the fuse panel and found two blown fuses, replaced them and the pump worked.
Here's my issues: if AC max is used, the vacuum pump stops working and air blows through defrost only . If the dash switch is in the off position and then turned back on, air blows through defrost vents again and vacuum pump will not work.
Is there a solenoid or switch to this vacuum pump that I'm not seeing?
Truck blows smoke like a blown NASCAR engine occasionally when pulling heavy load....pull over, cool off and resume driving. Its as if it never happened. All fluid levels are in range and truck drives fine minus load. My last f350 5.4 did same thing at about 200k miles. My local ford dealer tells me I'm the only guy on earth this Has happened to.
View 8 RepliesI am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.