Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Heater Blows Cold Air At Idle?
Nov 29, 2007
I've got a 2005 F-350 PSD KR. At highway speeds I get heat coming out everywhere it should. In stop-and-go traffic or at idle, the fan just blows cold air. Once back up to speed, hot air starts blowing again.
The fan stays running and the heat position (lower/upper-vents/defrost) stays the same. Just the temperature of the air blowing thru changes.
Things I know it isn't, thermostat is fairly new, anti-freeze is topped off, and the radiator cap is both good and on like it should be.
It sounds like maybe the blend-door or a vacuum leak according to a few of the posts I found with similar symptoms.
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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The heater blows cold air from the driver side only. Very cold. Vey hot on passenger side.I have read that this is likely a blend door issue. Comments? Fluids are full. I hear slight noises from under the dash like "click click" like a door is trying to activate?? Truck out of warranty. If it is the door I heard the driver side is not as tough to install. Again comments? Instructions?
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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I have a 2011 F250 with ac problems. When you start it in the morning and turn the ac on it only takes a small amount of time for the air to start cooling. If you turn the truck off then start it again after driving to town the ac blows hot air out up to 4 minutes (yes I timed it) before it starts cooling. I took it to a local repair shop and the first time they said it only had half the freon it needed. The charged it and off I went. Same problem. The second time they informed me the fan clutch was not engaging and replaced it. I picked it up and the first time it was turned off and back on it had the same problem. I am scheduled to take it back to the same repair shop on Monday.
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Is there a filter for the AC somewhere?
2001 F-350 gas
The air blows cold but it smells like something died in side it somewhere.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I am the proud owner of a 2002 F250 Super Duty 4x4, which has 158K miles on it. I live in South Florida and use the truck as my daily driver and also from trips up into the Blue Ridge Mountains.
Recently, I noticed that when I have the A/C on it blows nice and cold for about 15 minutes, but then the air gets really warm. I had the system checked and the Freon levels are right where they should be. A bit of experimenting reveals that if I turn off the A/C for about 10 or 15 minutes after it starts to blow warm air, the systems blows cool air as it is supposed to.
Therefore, I suspect that something is freezing under the hood and preventing the system from operating properly. Since A/C is pretty well essential for us in south Florida, this is a problem, when I have the family or customers in the truck.
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My '01 Super Duty 5.4 has an overheating/heater problem that the dealer can't seem to fix. I noticed my heater was blowing cold then a few miles later it overheated pushing coolant out of cap. Next day drove fine to Ford dealer who replaced my heater core, thermostat, reservoir cap and a hose. Drove it for a day till the exact original symptoms occurred again with a gurgling sound in dash. Dealer kept for a week pressurizing system but no leaks found. Replaced my thermostat again and gave it back. I drove it 300 miles over a week before the exact same symptoms occurred. Brought back to dealer who said that air was in the system, added a bunch of coolant and supposedly got all the air out. Same symptoms still. Brought back to dealer that finally changed the water pump they said had a leak. Guess what, same symptoms. Heater will work fine for days then it will blow cold, then hot, then cold and sooner or later truck will overheat then just as fast cool down and heater will work again. Still hearing gurgling. Dealer said I don't have a HCV.
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
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I'm going to cut right to the chase, when did ford stop having the diesel high idle when it is cold? I have a 2015 350 I bought last August and assumed it would high idle like previous power strokes. I even put a ts6 chip in my 97 just for high idle option to keep the motor warm when idling around our farm. I realize ford probably doesn't want trucks idling long because it kills mpg and isn't good for the emission system but to be honest I could really care less about mpg as long as it's decent and a high idle would keep emissions pushed through. Is there an option or anyway you can get the 6.7 liter to high idle?
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I picked up my 05 F350 dually 5 speed w/ the 6.0 powerstroke motor in august... It only had 38k on it when I bought it... its got 43K miles on it now...
Ran great in the warm weather but ever since it got cold out its been a struggle. It was running rough on the way home and kept stalling while i was driving it.. (acting like it was starving for fuel).
I went and replaced both fuel filters and started the truck... let it warm up and it stalled while sitting in my drive way and haven't been able to start it since...
I have fuel additive in it but since I don't drive it all the time (maybe 3 times a week for 30 miles) could it be possible that the fuel is gelling?
I was going to check the EGR valve tonight...
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I have a quick question regarding tire pressure. Where we work, we have a 2005 F350.
Stock tire pressure for stock tires 275/70R18 states 65 PSI for the front and 75 PSI for the rear.
The truck currently has 295/65R18 tires all around. They are some sort of Wrangler tire, not sure of exact model, but they are more of a all-terrain tire. The truck sticks to the road though.
What would be the recommended cold tire pressure with these? Can I stick with what the stock tires would be?
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2005 250 5-speed total oil pressure loss ... At 110k mechanic diagnosed failing phasers from noise, rough idle, loss of power under 1k rpm. (Crew cab long box xl bought new for $25k)(first 100k were from carpenters (hard miles) so this truck is barebones and usefulness is much higher than cash value). Truck has 146k
All symptoms typically disappear over 1k rpm so I have limited idle time and manipulated engine speed to try and maintain 1000-1200 and all has been well for past 36k miles. Today noise (valve clatter?) persisted at all rpm and during a scramble to get off the highway all oil pressure was lost (I'm aware that pressure gauge on dash is not 100% reliable). After total pressure loss I cut engine and called tow truck. Out of curiosity, I actuated ignition and motor cranked maybe two rotations, and then appeared seized. After about 45 min waiting for tow I went back to disengage 4wd and take my rifles and skis out of truck. At this time I actuated ignition again and engine fired and ran as it had for past 36k miles. I drove about one mile constantly watching oil pressure gauge, then noise returned followed by instant drop from normal to 0 pressure (dash gauge) I immediately shut of engine.
I am a mechanical engineer, but not a mechanic. I am familiar with the cam phaser system and I understand that their operation is directly related to oil pressure. Today's temp was under 0'F. I have a very skilled mechanic who works for around 30-40% of cost of licensed shop and I know his skills to be on par.
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My 2000 F-250 6.8L V10 has a choppy idle during the first 30 or so seconds after a cold start up in the morning then it smooths out and drives perfectly. If I were to place the truck in gear during the choppy idle, it would not die and throttle response would be fine.
I cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the PCV elbow for cracks (no cracks). It idles at about a 1000 rpm during a cold startup then drops to about 750 rpm according to the dash tachometer. The truck has 187,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2005 F350 diesel, 54000 miles. I was at a red light today, engine is idling normaly.. light turns green and I step on the throttle and get nothing. My truck is rolling (in drive) as if it were in nuetral. I shut the engine off and it does not start for 10 to 15 min. Then it fires up and seems to be running as if nothing happened.
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I have a '99 F150 4.2 5 speed, my problem is, my heating isn't working. My A/C works fine, my blower motor does too, i changed my heater core about a year ago. I turn my truck on wait for it to warm up and once my gauge reads normal temp, i turn my control to the warm position but the air blows cold with just a very small hint of heat. I looked it up in my Chilton book and they said to check my hoses that go to the firewall/heater core. They say that both hoses should be hot and if one isn't to check it. i did that and the one on the left side(facing the truck) is barely warm. what could be my problem? heater core? my friend from Autozone said something about a vacuum control somewhere in the engine compartment but i don't know where it is, could that be a problem? Or would the flapper door be stuck?
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I bought a used 99 f250 v10, i went to turn on the a/c today, and it only blows where the defrost is toward the window. it gets cold after awhile, but nothing out the vents, the heat either.
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2002, F250, 5.4, ZF6, 140k.
My heat only blows through the defroster. I was looking for my vacuum pump, but can't seem to find it. I find plenty of diesel threads where they show it, but mine isn't in the same location. I can actuate the diverter by hand and it will make the heat stop at the defroster and come out at your feet.
I have attached images of my rig.
Were to look for the vacuum pump? Any key spots to look for failed vacuum lines? What is this?
This is where most threads say the vacuum pump should be.
This switches from defrost to floor when operated manually.
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I have a early 2003 SD with the 5.4 triton. It has a oil leak on the passenger side, the oil blows back and gets on the exhaust.
I have been under the truck with the engine running looking at where the head meets the block and at where the valve cover meets the head and can not see a leak.
Sitting there running at idle it does not drip a drop off the engine but the entire underside of the truck is coated in oil.
I did notice that the depression around one of the upper valve cover bolts was filled with oil, I cleaned out the oil, let the truck run and it stays dry.
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