Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Gas Filling Too Slowly?
Oct 27, 2015
Ok back at this problem. When I say she won't fill... I mean I can't get more then $0.10 -$0.20 for gas in before the pump shuts off! I'v read all the tips and tricks of holding the gun upside down, tilting the gun up, changing different guns or gas stations, and even pulling the carbon canister filter blowing it out with compressed air... not one of them worked! Yes air passes through the canister but at a restrictive rate.
The only way I can get this truck to fill like every other car I'v filled is to unplug the vent line to carbon canister filter. Then I fill the F250 as fast as I want. Obviously the problem is in the carbon canister (plug up media or faulting canister solenoid) but what is the fix other then buying a new one?
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The rear power sliding window on my 05 6.0 F250 has started to open and close very slowly. I recently had my windows tinted. I checked track and can not see any obstruction. Having problems with their power sliders? Wondering if coincidence or if there is problem with window motor.
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When I go to put fuel in my truck. It keeps clicking off? I have to slightly hold the trigger to put gas in it? I have tried to get the vent hose to the tank filler off, but what is the trick to getting the hose off there??
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My blower assembly (not at the blower but in the box below it) is filling up with water. Any way to look into besides drilling a hole in the bottom of the box?
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I have a 99 F350 with a 29 gallon tank. I filled it up yesterday and the total gallons was a little over 24. The low fuel light was on and the gauge only goes up to almost 3/4. I recently bought this truck. I've searched for a thread on here possibly addressing this but have been unable to find one. I've been going through possible issues in my head.... What the problem is?
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Just wondering if its normal that my front axle sits out about 1 1/2 inches further on the drivers side than the passenger, also gas pump always shutting off when filling up...
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I have a 2009 f 250 5.4 v8 trition motor my coil packs are slowly failing. I want to replace all 8 of them. Which coils and plugs I am going to need. I guess I'll replace the plugs also, how are the accel coil packs and ngk plugs....
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2004 f350 lariat Key fob slowly started not to work until it finally quit. Thought it was the battery but changing it had no change. Do the fobs go bad and need to be replaced?
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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The electric windows in the front seem to be very lazy. When you depress the button, it goes down slowly and eventually stops halfway. Does it need a lube?
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I don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
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On my 2006 4X4, I noticed a low pitched revolving dull scraping sound when I was traveling slowly. It was more noticeable on a hard left turn. The sound increased in speed as I drove faster and slower when I backed off. My brake pads are fine with 6 month old rotors. I suspect either a bad hub bearing or U-joint on it's way out. I have approx 114k on the clock and attach an 8ft plow for my driveway alone. What's the easiest way to check?
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2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
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Just bought 2005 F350 XLT. Took it home last night and the alarm started going off at 2:30am for no reason. Stumbled looking for keys and it shut off by itself before I could(it sounded like it rearmed as well). At about 5:00am it went off again. We live in a rural area with not much around.
My understanding is that the XLT would be a Ford 'accessory' item. It does not seem to be too sensitive as I jumped on the back bumper to see if it would set it off but it did not.
The only thing I can think of is that last night, I had flicked all four of the Auxilary switched on the dash and forgot to switch them off. I popped the hood and none of those wires appear to be connected to anything.
I can't see why those switches would have anything to do with it but I am grasping at straws here.
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My 05 superduty is in the shop because it won't shift in or out of 4Hi. Ford garage says I need a new transfer case shift motor, and 4wheel drive module. They said the shift motor was full of oil. I am not really up to speed on how the shift motor works, other than it bolts externally to the transfer case, that's why it confuses me about the shift motor being saturated with oil. My truck has never leaked even a drop of any type oil, ever.
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I am the first owner of a 2005 F250 SD with the V10 engine. After the engine is up to normal temperature, EVERY TIME I turn my steering wheel hard right or left it dies. It started doing this when it was less than a year old and had 10,000 miles on it. There is no Check Engine light, therefore, every time the Ford service people hook it to their reader there is no error code so, of course, they always tell me there is nothing they can do.
I use the truck to pull a fifth-wheel trailer but these days that usually means a yearly trip ten miles from the storage lot to our RV park site. The total vehicle mileage is 78,000. Less than 5000 of that has been pulling the trailer. It has never been used to haul heavy loads other than the fifth-wheel. I changed the fuel filter less than 2000 miles ago and nothing changed. I have done all of the routine maintenance myself so it has never been late for an oil change or any other routine service.
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2005 Ford F250 5.4 ... Having problems with ignition switch or bus bar in that circuit being bad?
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2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
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My '05 5.4 SD CCLB is running badly. 95k mikes. Plugs done 6 months ago. Acceleration is very sluggish. Sometimes uphill from a stop is almost impossible.
No CEL codes other than an intermittent coolant temp gauge that spikes but resets as soon as I shut down and restart.
When it is bogging the exhaust note changes - almost like there is a blockage. It is almost a booming sound. I would like to test to see if the cat is clogged. I have a vacuum gauge but need to find a vacuum source after the throttle body to do so. If I pull out the O2 sensors ( to allow the exhaust pressure to exit ) would the truck run badly because the O2 sensors were not functioning?
If it turns out that the converter is bad. Can I just eliminate the cats? I do not need emissions testing here in PA because the truck is so heavy. But I don't know if eliminating the cats will cause other problems.
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Just bought a used 2005 F250 with a 6.0 PSD.
It has electric door locks but I was only given a standard key.
Q1. Are there trucks without Remote Keyless Entry?
Q2. How do I tell if the keyless receiver is installed in the truck?
Q3. Is there a way to unlock all the locks with the key in the door?
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About a month after replacing the oil cooler and welding the egr cooler, I randomly got a "low oil pressure" message pop up on the dash. I checked my oil level when I got home and it was full so I assumed it was just the oil sending switch went bad. A couple days go by and I noticed a substantial puddle of oil under my truck so I popped the hood and the entire top passenger side of the engine was soaked in oil.
I assumed it was the inlet turbo oil gasket because the turbo pressure wouldn't go above half, but after replacing it the leak was still going strong. It turns out that all of that oil was spraying out of my intercooler boot at the front of the turbo. I ordered a new kit and replaced all the boots and pipes and got her running.
While driving around the block the turbo sounded like it was being smothered and wouldn't engage. 30 seconds later the truck went into limp mode. From what I've read it can be solved with a ccv mod but i don't think that will solve as much oil as I'm experiencing, however I could be wrong. Could this be a blown turbo seal or maybe the head gaskets?
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