Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 V10 - Wipers And Washer Wouldn't Shut Off
Apr 2, 2014
Last fall had one day for about three miles where wipers and washer wouldn't shut off. Now they won't stop at all. Thought the multi switch might be bad, removed whole switch and unhooked. Washer pump and wipers were still on and wouldn't shut off. Had to pull the fuse.
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I have an 2005 F350 4x4, 6.0 with 294000 miles. My gauges recently started to shut down on there own and then recover. at any speed with no effect on the engine. When I park and shut the system down, they all come back on again at start-up. However, they shut down again and then operate at will as I drive. What's causing this?
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1999 F250 5.4l base work truck. My problem is wipers, washer do not function. It all started with my wipers staying on. I removed the fuse to stop them. When i put it back in nothing. I have bench tested all relays, checked fuses, put in a new mfs, put in a new/used gem, checked all wiring i can seem to find, refreshed grounds etc. I am starting to lose my mind with this thing.
I have gone through all of section A and B of these tests [URL] .... except for the NGS scan tool.
Tonight checked the pins at the central junction box relays to see what was going on. This is where things got interesting. i have constant power at pin 5 of the run/park relay. if i jump this to pin 3 the wipers run. Pin 5 of hi/lo and washer show no voltage, however show continuity to ground. pin 5 of run/park also shows continuity to ground.
With the key on I have 12v at pin 1 of the hi/lo, run/park, and washer sockets. when cycled through the switches show i have continuity to ground on pin 2 of all sockets as they should. However, when relays are in place they do not "click" over.
What am I missing here? As much as I'd hate to do it, I may end up just throwing a switch in to "jump" the run park relay for temporary single speed wipers.
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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Filled up the windshield washer tank this morning and could not get the sprayer to work. Looked under the truck and it looks like all I put in is on the drive. Any one else had issues with 2011 F350 washer tanks?
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My windshield wipers aren't working. I can hear the relay click and I've checked the fuse. I found this ground wire, what it goes to?
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My new to me, 2005 F-250 windshield washer nozzles don't work. I have replaced the windshield washer pump, cleaned out the washer fluid container and rubber filter screen, blew air through the lines and the passenger side nozzle barely sprays and the driver side nozzle does nothing at all. I guess I have clogged nozzles. What is the part number or place you bought them? Looked online and everything I can find is so generic.
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Tried changing fuel filters on my 2008 F350 diesel. Tried primary - open drain - no tool to remove cap, closed drain. Removed top cap, replaced filter.
Started but immediately shut down. Did this twice. Put old filter back in - still no start. Wrench code light on.
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I have a 1999 F350 7.3 truck and when I shut off the engine I get a small drip of water (not antifreeze or oil) for about 20 seconds and then it stops. It's coming down from the passenger side somewhere under under the wheel well back around the firewall. Everything in the truck appears to be running normal and all fluids are at normal levels.
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After a long day at work, I had the pleasure of driving home in traffic. While sitting there enjoying the last of the warm weather, I tapped the brakes to slow down and then the truck shut off. I looked down and naturally the battery light came on. I pulled over, turned everything off, then tried to start the truck. The truck fired right up and all indications were normal. The scan gauge showed no codes and batt voltage was normal at 13.3 volts. Where to start looking? Drive home without any faults for the next 20 minutes.
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Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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I have and 05 F350 4X4. I put it into 4 wheel drive high yesterday to make sure every thing was working correctly and it was so I went to 4 wheel low and that worked fine. Problem is it won't come out of 4 wheel low. I didn't try to go back to 2 wheel when I was in 4 high. What to look for? The truck has the electric switch to engage 4 wheel.
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Recently drove a 3500 mile road trip with no issues after installing a SCT X4 programmer from 5 star. Upon returning home the following week the ABS light came on and has not gone off. Additionally, last week the truck stalled while driving down the road at around 45 mph. Had something similar happen last summer, got the truck stuck and was trying to rock it in the mud and every time I shifted from reverse or forward the rpm's dropped to 500 and the truck could not respond to the gas pedal and the ABS light came on. Once I got out and washed all the mud from under it light went off and it ran fine without any warning lights.
Truck is an 05, V-10, 4x4, off road and tow package, lariat. No other mods besides the programmer.
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My dad gave his 2005 Ford F-350 truck with the gas 5.4L (?) I drove it home. If i floor it it misfires badly, or if the RPM's get over 3000 it misfires then about 3800 it stops and keeps going. but i can't give it to much gas....
The spark plugs where replaced 2 years ago along with the cat converters. I can hear some very fait manifold gasket leak ...
A few days ago it was raining and it had a bad misfire with blinking CEL. but it never threw a solid CLE. can i still put the codes on it to see what cylinder it is? Are these issue related? Where should i start?
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2005 F-350 diesel... When I first got it the radio was shutting off by its self, my 02 did the same thing so I wasn't to worried about it.
But things have advanced , radio shuts off , windows wont work? Goes on and off at will , does not seem to be road bump related as they go off and on when Im not moving.
Will stay off until I restart truck sometimes and other times it only stays off for a few minutes.
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On my 05 350, I noticed the other day that my 4wd wasn't working, when I needed it of course. I quick test this morning and I discovered my PS hub is not locking in. I've read a lot of posts about it being the opposite, the auto portion causing a problem. In my case, it won't lock in in auto or manually turning. I can lock it in, spin the wheel and the axle shaft isn't turning. The pressure is the same as the other side, not too loose or too stiff. Can I pull the hub assembly off and rebuild it? I watched a video about that, but not sure on how my issue would allow me to work on it.
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Is there an input for an iPod/xm radio on the back of the stereo? On the front there is an AUX button but idk where to plug in. If so how do you remove stock radio? 2005 king ranch 350 is the truck.
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2005 F350 4x4... I just installed some Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners. Stock truck. No lift.
Now every bump I go over the truck squeaks and creaks like crazy. It's embarrassing. Sounds like bushings? Truck was fine before with the stock Ranchos.
I torqued rear to 46ftlbs and front to 76ftlbs. I tightened the top nut until the bushings compressed 1/4" each.
No instructions came with them. Do I need to lube something?
This was a last minute install before a road trip and they ride great but I'm hoping the noise is something I can take care of.
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Over the last two weeks I have had an intermittent no start on my 2005 F350 6.0. on four different occasions. With enough cranking and charging batteries it would start again. I am running a scangauge, during these no-starts ICP was at 200. I pulled the IPR and the screen was damaged so I ordered a new one thinking the IPR would fail intermittently. Replaced the IPR last night with a new one, and truck ran great. Started it three different times with no problems and let it run about twenty minutes.
This morning, another no-start, but IPR is at 1162 psi now during cranking. I am thinking fuel delivery now, but have not yet checked fuel pressure, I need to find an adapter for the M12-1.5 port on the secondary fuel filter.
Details: 2005 F350 6.0 SRW 150,000 miles 4x4
Studded a year ago
New oil cooler a year ago
Upgraded STC fitting a year ago
Coolant system flushed and coolant replaced with ELC months prior to cooler change
Coolant filter installed months prior to cooler change
EGR Delete
Scangauge II
Plenty of Oil
New Motorcraft Fuel Filters
Fuel Filter Bowl fills fast during KOEO
LPO registering on dash gauge during long crank
1162 PSI ICP during crank
37% IPR during crank
FICM voltage 48 - 47.5v during crank and run
Batteries tested good last week
SYC = 1 (last night while running)
Codes: Threw a code this morning during long crank "P2614 - Camshaft position output circuit" - One forum stated that this code will appear during long cranks - don't think this is my problem. This is the only code that it has kicked out during this issue.
Fuel Pressure = UNKNOWN
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I have a 2005 f350 with the power stroke I went through the hole vacuum system all new hubs, seals, vacuum actuator and fixed it all now I'm having the reverse problems everyone has my hubs are locked all the time as soon as I plug in the vacuum actuator the transfer case is still in 2wd and will switch 4x4 and work and disengage but the hubs are always in unless I unplug the actuator ...
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What is the factory radio wiring colors or know where I can find a diagram?
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