Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F350 Dies While Driving Then No Crank
Aug 18, 2017
I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
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I have 99 f350 single rear wheels 4x4 . I went to start it this morning and it would crank but not start b/c it was cold. I plugged it in and still wouldn't start then it wouldn't even crank. I checked all fuses swapped relays and I have new batteries. The last thing I did was hit on the starter a few times and it started. So I went and bought a new not remand a new starter and put it on and now it won't crank!? I get 12v at the little wire on the selenoid on the fender. So now what?
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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My 2000 ford f350 will start and then dies on me when i try to put in gear. I changed air n fuel filter. Adding oil i noticed the stick was still reading dry. Noticed a big oil spot under the hood. What should i try to do? Do not want to put in shop cause every time she goes in I come out broke.
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I have a 1999 F350 V10 and the other day I started her up she fired right up like normal but a few seconds go by and she dies.. I noticed I do have an exhaust manifold issue I have 5 total bolts broken off out of the 20. My question is could the v10 die because of an exhaust leak? Or could it be a vacuum leak? Also after I started her back up when I put her in reverse she idles real rough. I don't believe it to be a plug or coil because all are new.
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It's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
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2015 F350 6.2, 4 door 8' bed FX4...... 17,200 miles.
This morning when outside to start it (nice sunny morning) and turned the key and all the dash lights went on and also went crazy. Said it had all kind of problems on the dash, Trac system, Over heating and so on. The starter did not crank over at all. Tried this about 8 times in 45 minutes, no worky. Call Ford, they towed it to the dealer. I last drove it 2 days ago. All stock, no programmer.
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I just can't seem to make sense of, 2006 f350 6.0 once it's been running for a min or so it will die when brake is pressed, also dies when you turn the wheel. Can't find any rub through or bad wiring.if you up rpm slightly it will not die with brake or steering. Tried removing belt thinking it possibly was a pulp and it doesn't die with the brake or steering but will die when going from drive to park. Thinking possible cps....
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We just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
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Having an issue with my 04. Wife got in the truck to move it and no dome lights no crank nothing. Swapped the battery for a new one. Still nothing.
I checked all fuses. I literally was just driving it 10 months prior to her getting in it. Said dome came on for a second then shut off. 2004 F350 5.4 ....
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I've got a 2005 f350 with a 6.0 starts when it wants. I have checked the ficm and 48 volts when key is on and cranking! How do I know if my icp is bad? Some days it will start no problem but most days it will just crank over. When it does start i run it for a while shut it off and try to restart it and it wont!
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So here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
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2010 ford f350 super heavy duty diesel...
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2003 f-350 had no dash lights and no start or crank. Found battery cable junction on left fender broken fixed, replaced starter. Drove it sunday, went about 15 mi and just shut off. Towed home was a battery, replaced battery, now I have lights but turn key and nothing? Was starting fine, all summer seems like a cold weather issue. Any relays I should be looking for? I was going to check power to started but raining too hard this am ...
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My 1997 F250, 4x4, 460, auto has started dying with no warning while driving from 5 to 30 miles. Changed the fuel filter and the fuse under the hood. Where to start.
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So I 2003 6.0 F350 that is a Dually. Been sitting in my yard for about two years now. I turn the key it just clicks and it doesn't crank. The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the whit The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the wire on the engine bay. It cranked for a while and that started ran rough. Then it just died. I did not start again. I did this during winter so the engine have time to cool off it was about below freezing. Done this multiple times and drove up and down in my backyard but not on the road. What could be wrong with it. Either way I put in diesel 911 and more fuel but and I change the filters with Motorcraft OEM filters. Sure that the caps were right.
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I'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
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So I just purchased a 2011 F350 6.7 this week...I've had absolutely no problems until I drove it to the dealer just to get it detailed...I give the salesman my key and he comes back and says it won't start...we tried numerous time to start it...put jump boxes on both batteries and nothing...had full power to all accessories but when attempting to crank it would black out on the dash screen and give me a "stop vehicle" warning....does this deal with security?....also after hassling to get rental for a hour or so,we tried agian and it fired right up?!?...also it started double honking when locking. ..is that due to the hood being up?
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Having an intermittent starting problem after sitting for a period of time or overnight. Engine will crank but not start, turn key off and back on wait 5 sec and engine starts and runs fine. Restarts all day long no problem. Dealer found a code(unk number) for low fuel rail pressure. Was able to create the problem for the tech. So far we have replaced the fuel filter, the FPDC (fuel pump driver control) and the fuel pump. Also replaced two ground straps, possible poor connection.
Problem continues.
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I have an '06 F350 dually with a 6.0 diesel. I bought this used about 5 years ago and for the most part have loved it. i would always smile on the inside when i heard people bash the 6.0...i thought i got lucky....until today.
140k miles. recent oil change. all is swell...until this morning. Stick in key and turn it. glow plug indicator comes on...all lights come on for a few second....wrench, abs, dtc etc....wrench shuts off...glow plug light comes on...4 or 5 seconds later wrench light comes back on....turn key and NO CRANK.
All fuses are fine...starter cranks if i jump the solenoid...but it won't start. Miles to empty and everything else is just dashes hit the OBD and it says "engine sensor data error"/ "trans temp error" ...
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I have and 05 F350 4X4. I put it into 4 wheel drive high yesterday to make sure every thing was working correctly and it was so I went to 4 wheel low and that worked fine. Problem is it won't come out of 4 wheel low. I didn't try to go back to 2 wheel when I was in 4 high. What to look for? The truck has the electric switch to engage 4 wheel.
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