2005 Ford 350. I want to change the ball joints on the front axel and I cant remove the axle out of dif. to remove the ball joint housing. I have been prying and pulling and it just moves out a 1/4 inch or so .They tell me there is no ring to remove in dif before you can pull it out but why this trouble?
View 4 RepliesI am replacing the ball joints on my 07 f250 4x4. got down to the removal of the shaft itself and it won't budge. What is the secret here. Have to go to work on monday, and the weather in Cleveland isn't going to be very good on Sunday.
View 10 RepliesOn my 03 F350 4x4 SC 5.4L auto, I have to replace the tie rod end off the pitman arm, figured as long as I have it in the air, I'd check the ball joints because the tires are starting to wear in the inside. Hoping it's just a camber adjustment but my luck, it'll be ball joints, SO, with that said. I'm looking at Motorcraft, moog and driveworks brands, which are better? Are there other brands that would be better than these 3? Talking to my local mechanic he wants to put in moog brand, so I guess I'll be doing it myself if they're bad.
Any tips or tricks about installation procedure?
I need to replace the ball joints on my truck, and it looks like a fairly formidable job. I replaced a brake rotor and a caliper the other day, so I'm not afraid to get in there - just not sure what I'm really getting myself into without a bit of guidance from you fine FTE folks.
What do I need to consider while I'm in there?
Is there a more recent write up with pictures, special tool list and/or part numbers?
Early 1999 needs ball joints on drivers side. Should I just do both sides?
99 F250 super duty 7.3
Had new ball joints installed and alignment. Steering does not return to center. Returns a little on a tight turn like in town but difficult when just changing lanes in town or not. Took it to another shop and they said the ball joints were too tight. right side pretty tight and left side really tight. Moog ball joints. First mechanic says they will get better with a few miles on them. Second mechanic says not so.
Also, have new shocks but get a bouncing in the front when at 45 mph and goes away at almost 50 mph.
After 240,000 miles I had to get the ball joints on my 02 f250 2 wheel drive replaced and the alignment set. I notice that the steering is really tight. In fact that it will not attempt to return to center on the highway. The guy that did the work has 30 years experience doing this sort of thing and he says I just need to drive it and it will loosen up. Interested in hearing from others that have replaced ball joints; Is this normal? How long do they take to loosen up?
View 7 RepliesI have my front axles out to replace the U-Joints but they are rusted in there. Even the C-Clip is fused/rusted in place. I use my flat wheel grinder and ground out the C-Clips but the U-Joint caps wont budge. Been soaking in penetrating oil too. Any way other than drilling them out?
View 1 RepliesI noticed my '12 F250 has grease zerks on the front axle u-joints and was wondering how often you need to grease them ? My truck has 10k on it and while I was changing the oil tonight I decided to give them a few shots of grease until it started coming out of the joint.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1999 F-250 super duty 7.3 4x4 and the rear drivers side axle seal is leaking. My question is how do I remove the axle shaft? my last truck a f150 had c clips in the diff that released the axle shaft but I did not see those on this truck. How to remove the axle shaft?
View 8 RepliesMy truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
My friend is changing out the ball joints, upper and lower, both sides. I have seen that the upper is typically done by replacing the whole arm, I don't plan on doing this. So, with a press and new ball joints, are there any nice tips from you all? Looking for useful info before I get into it. I did a search and have not found a thread like "ball joints-how to".
View 7 RepliesWhat exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
View 3 RepliesHere within the next couple weeks, i am wanting to do some routine maintenance. right now on my list is just an oil change along with the fuel filter.
View 6 RepliesI'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
View 12 RepliesPutting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
View 14 RepliesIn my attempt to remove the auto locking hub on my 2000 F-350 4x4, I found that it would not slide out. I removed the retaing clip and the hub should of be able to come out with a couple wiggles, it seems to have seized inside the hub. I tapped it with a rubber mallet on all sides. Any thoughts as to other alternative methods of removing the hub locker ?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2014 F350 (specs in my signature) and I want to change the 4" rear blocks out for F250 2" blocks to lower the rear of the truck.
Looks like a fairly straight forward replacement but I have a few questions.
Will the shocks need to be replaced? I do eventuality want to replace them as the stock ones are not that great but I only have 2500 miles on them.
When I do order new shocks for my truck after the changing the blocks do I order shocks for a F250?
I would like to go OEM parts for this but I am having trouble finding the blocks and u-bolts that I need. What are the part numbers for these?
Anything else I should know about to do this swap?
The issue is with my 2000 F350 crew longbed V10. Other than a BTS trans put in a little over a year ago, and FoMoCo motorsports headers, the whole truck is bone stock. Oh, it has that fantastic auto-hub thing with the fake locking hubs and the little switch on the dash (I'd love to convert it to a manual shifter...?). 174k on chassis, so things need to be done, 40k on engine, 3k on BTS 4r100.
Yesterday I was running around town, made a stop, and when I started moving again got a loud grinding from the front axle. Thought maybe I'd picked up a rock in a caliper or something, so I jumped out and checked everything, no joy. Moved forward, there it is again. No vibration, but loud enough (or telegraphing enough) to hear clearly in the cab. Let the truck roll forward, popped in to neutral, noise fades away. Back in to drive, there it is. So, now I know it's trans/t-case/driveshaft/related. I recently put new vacuum lines in, checked all the connections, and pulled, cleaned and lubed the hubs.
And since the trans is a nearly new BTS that is working just find, I'm narrowing the search to the hubs, drive shaft, t-case.
Get home (noise abates above 30mph, or everything else drowns it out), crawl under, and find the front driveshaft is locked. Ok, stuck hub? Pull out both the fake locking hubs, and now the shaft turns. I can turn each front axle by hand at the u-joint, and I kinda hear a faint grinding on the right side (will bad needles make noise only under a load from the trans and not coasting in neutral?), and when I swing the drive shaft around the left axle moves, right doesn't, etc etc.
I'm going to pull the drive shaft today and check the U joints, and drive a bit to see if the noise is still there, but I am thinking I might have some bad needles on the pax side axle...
Put new backing plates, parking brake shoes, springs, etc on my 2004 F350 DRW 4x4. Replaced the inner hub seals and axle o-ring. Filled with Ford Rear end lube and went for a test drive. All was well. Went out last night to take her out again and I've got diff lube running out of both sides on the inside of the rims. Did Ford sell me the wrong seals? Could I have installed the seals wrong? Ford seal part number is 4C3Z1S177A. Axle is a Dana 80, confirmed by reading the tag on the diff.
View 2 RepliesI was looking underneath the truck yesterday and saw that the rear end pinion seal was leaking. Looked like it had been for a while. Truck has 35,850 miles on it. Unscrewed the fill plug and a lot of pressure is released. So I'm assuming the breather is clogged somewhere along the line. I have an appointment at the dealer on Friday to see whats wrong. What is supposed to be at the end of the breather tube? Mine has a barbed 45ish degree fitting on the end of it. Its a SRW by the way.
View 5 Replies