I have a 05 f250 6.0 that currently will not start and no smoke. Replaced batteries and tested ficm. At initial injector buzz voltage drops to 18.8 then jumps back to 48.8 and drops again to 18.8 while cranking. My question is if the voltage is this low does the pcb still just need a resolder or are there components that will need to be replaced?
View 1 RepliesAfter finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
I threw a code on my truck for a P0611 FICM. I checked it out and I had 48 Volts DC with key in the on position and 47.8 Volts DC with the truck running. I know that if it is fried, the second reading should be below 45 VDC.
View 3 Replies2005 F250
123'xxx miles
EGR delete kit
This is my problem, the truck Idles then revs by itself and throws black smoke.If i leave it on it eventually seems like it floods and shuts off,when i first noticed this it had a loss of power and was having a hard time shifting gears, it would idle fine but when i would try and drive the truck it had no power. I changed the diesel filters and the air filter and the problem persists.
Could this be a bad turbo? Injector?
Here is the video of the problem.. F250 problem. - YouTube..
Truck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
View 1 RepliesJust bought a 02 f-250 7.3 with 115k miles. A couple days after I bought it I noticed a lot of white smoke on cold starts for about 20-30 sec at 50 degree temperature. So I tested the GPR which ended up being bad a replaced with the one that is double in size(name escapes me atm) and also did the 50 cent mod to keep the through-valve cover harness from losing connection since both sides were lose.
After that the temp warmed back up and it would only blow a "puff" of white smoke. The past two days it has gotten down to 30-32 and the truck has a rough time starting. Cranks fine but it's almost like it's getting choked or flooded then it will blow smoke for 3-4 minutes after it starts. The truck does have a FASS fuel system on it with stock injectors. Should I try to Ohm out the glow plugs again or where should I start trouble shooting?
So, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 ford f250 super duty 5.4L the problem am having is the other day I took the truck out the yard an parked it across the street. 2 hours later I went back to move it it would not start the engine just kept rolling over I did this for about an hour it still refused to start. 2 days later I tried it again it started without any problems. I put a code reader on it it said P0453 fuel tank pressure sensor. If that is going bad would that cause that problem or would it be another cause.
View 2 Replies I have a 2005 F250 with the 5.4. This truck has been one thing after another, as you can tell from my other posts. The problem this time is, if it cranks hard to start because it's cold(can be anywhere from as high as 32, but usually in the teens) it will start just fine, then several minutes later throw the check engine light. Put the scanner on, like clockwork, 4 codes, always cylinder 1 misfire pending, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions pending, cylinder 1 misfire confirmed, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions confirmed.
Sometimes you can hear a slight lope in the idle when it does this. Clear the codes, runs perfectly fine. It will never do it after it's been started for the day. Some days you would think for sure it would throw it when it's frigid and the winds been blowing on it, it doesn't bother, other days you wouldn't think it would, and it does.Can the computer think that since it didn't start right up, it misfired?
Pulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.
After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.
Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.
Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.
I have 05 F250 SD with 150k on it. The engine has the typical cam phaser knock, timing chain slap on start up and occasionally have a noisy lifter. As long as I use fresh 20-40 oil the engine symptoms are less and the engine runs strong. The motor also doesn't leak or burn oil and the plugs were change out about 20k ago.
The truck is still good and is prefect for my needs so to me it's seems worth fixing the needed repairs. What I would like to figure out how far should I take the motor... just have the chains, guides and phasers replaced or buy a rebuilt motor and swap it? I'm thinking just doing the phases and etc would be 1/2 the cost but may not last as long as rebuilt motor. But realistically I might only put 5-7k miles are year on it anyways.
Got a 99 V10 blowing a lot of oil out of the exhaust pipe, to the point where I could fog the neighborhood, cylinder number 10 had original spark plug dirt down in the hole know one wanted to clean it out so I did put new plug and coil now smokes a lot, also truck has 173559 miles, did a half diesel half used motor oil flush tonight, wanted to go for 15 minutes only made it to 14 to much smoke, will put fresh oil in tomorrow, what could be the problem, piston ring blow by, intake manifold leak, burning what I think is oil could be coolant, head gasket no bubbles in oil or antifreeze and antifreeze and or oil are not mixing. Is it easier to pull the heads off with pulling the motor which looks fairly easy or leave it in the truck.
View 2 Replies2001 F250 5.4L - I recently had my muffler changed and the pipe flange on the tailpipe up by the exhaust manifold welded back on. I haven't driven my truck much this past summer so when I took it in to get the muffler fixed the front caliper got temporarily stuck like it tends to do. It eventually freed up but in the meantime I noticed a hot oil-like smell coming from my truck from time to time. I chalked it up to either the new muffler or maybe it just smelled hot and it was instead the front brake caliper still being stuck. One day I'm driving down the interstate and I start uphill. I noticed smoke behind me and pulled over. The brake was not overheating so I got underneath the truck.
The smoke was rolling off of the exhaust pipe all the way down it all the way up near the manifold but mostly around the muffler. The smoke quickly went away while I was under the truck. I noticed it doing this only while the engine is under a load like going uphill. Just driving around town nothing is noticeable. When it does smoke I lose power. Once I slow down for awhile and then gradually speed back up things seem okay. I checked the oil.
Normally I don't lose a drop but this time I was a quart low but the oil on the stick was clean. It's been awhile since I had my oil changed but very little mileage on this change (my truck has sat awhile). My truck doesn't leave a drop of oil under it when it sits. From what I read you can remove the radiator cap and start the truck to see if it's a blown head gasket. At least that one of the things I can check easily without actually taking the plugs out even though the oil looks clean. The radiator has not lost any fluid. The transmission fluid is also good. It's been doing this for about 3 weeks.
I still drive it to and from work (about 15 miles round trip) everyday but I take it easy on the acceleration and stay on city streets. I looked into the EGR system online for my truck and instead found an EVAP purge solenoid/valve in its place on the passenger side. I don't have any service lights on the dash. I went to Autozone and had them scan it but nothing came up. I read somewhere that either the purge solenoid assembly or EGR (I can't remember) can burn up the board if it goes bad resulting in no code showing up.
I recently changed a vacuum valve out that went bad that controlled the vacuum chamber used to operate the hubs on the 4WD. The 4WD is now operational again. Assuming the head gasket is not blown, what to check for next?
I have a 2004 F250 with 180K miles on it. About a year ago my truck would smoke pretty bad so I got on here and found I needed to take my FICM off and do some touch up soldering on it in a few places. Did that and everything has been fine until this past weekend when I noticed a little bit of whiteish smoke. Could it be the FICM again or something else. still have power and all gauges are normal. What to check next. Also, I do not have a scangauge, just the stock gauges.
View 11 Replies04 F-250, blowing tons of smoke. I've replaced the ICP sensor, crankcase breather hose (it was broken at the clip), cleaned the turbo, and EGR valve. Any other ways before I take it to a shop to get bent?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke. I bought the truck with 218000 miles on it, I have only put 1000 on it. I have had some issues with. The cps went out of it, and it wouldn't start until u replaced it. I have a Ts chip on it and cold air intake. It will not start after a cold night, it starts fine if I plug it in. It also lopes, or misses no matter the temperature outside. Also, it will blow a steady flame when you get on it. Finally, it also gets hot, smoke will come from the turbo after driving it for a while, no matter how you drive it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford 250 diesel that is pouring out white smoke from the exhaust when it goes into "cleaning filter" mode. I really don't understand this because I have a dpf delete with a sct tuner. I thought with the tuner and delete the truck wouldn't go into filter cleaning mode. I contacted Ford and they said it was normal for white smoke to come from the exhaust during this process. What's going on maybe tuner is bad?
View 5 RepliesMy 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
Our 2009 F-250 in our signature with 53,000 miles on it recently had a transmission episode that has me concerned. We were towing our fifth-wheel camper which weighs around 9000 lbs. We were nearly home on a 275 mile trip. All interstate at speeds of no more than 67 MPH. As I was in the process of exiting the interstate on the last 12 miles of our journey I noticed some smoke coming from underneath the truck. I immediately stopped and got under the truck and noticed transmission fluid running down from the top of the transmission and dripping onto the crossover exhaust pipe.
I let the truck idle for several minutes and it seemed to stop dripping fluid, or at least it had slowed considerably. I took off again being very careful not to gas it up at all, if fact I was very light footed with it from there on home. The ScanGauge II showed the transmission temp. had never got above 186 all the way home and it was at about 185 at the time I saw the smoke. The ambient temperature was around 90 and the truck had not labored at all on the way home. It would do the usual down shifting at overpasses but since I installed the 4.30 gears it doesn't do all that much shifting with the cruise control set on around 65-66 MPH.
I couldn't see where the oil was coming from but it was toward the top of the transmission. The transmission acted perfectly normal in every way even at the time of the dripping.
As I said, I took it plenty easy all the remaining 12 miles home and the tranny temp. dropped down to around 181. I parked the truck and camper on our asphalt driveway and saw no sign of drippage after it was parked. I fired the truck up the morning after this incident and drove it pulling the camper until the transmission temp. got to 185 and came home and parked it on the asphalt again and saw no signs of any leakage.
I checked the transmission fluid level per the instructions in the owners manual and it appeared to be right up to full. I don't believe it was over full. It smelled like it was new without a hint of any burnt odor. I bought the truck with 31,000 miles on it and had the dealer at which I purchased it change the transmission fluid at that time so it should be in very good condition.
I am going into a very busy time with this truck and can't chance any down time if it can be avoided. According to the research I did at the time I purchased this truck the automatic transmissions Ford used in the 2009 F-250 are pretty much bullet proof if maintained properly and not overly abused. This one has been well maintained and I've NEVER abused it. I wanted a manual trans. at the time I bought this unit but could not find one anywhere. I'm not a big slush-a-matic fan and I sincerely hope this one doesn't make me realize my long standing fear of slush-a-matic transmissions.
My mechanic cannot figure it out nor can a Ford mechanic. About every one to two weeks, only in the morning, after I drive about a half mile it starts running rough and stalls at idle. It behaves like it is flooding out. When I can get it started black smoke pours out until it clears. I can hold it above 2000 rpm but, as I lower the revs, it starts stalling again until it stops. I've tried blowing it out on a long stretch but at normal speed it does it again. After repeating this several times it suddenly runs right and won't happen again for a couple weeks, the longest being four weeks. I thought it might be the remote start but that theory was busted. I've searched here and in other sites and replaced the IAC but it still did it. Replacing the O2 sensors did not work. I don't want to keep throwing parts at it.
'03 F250 FX4, 5.4 gas....
During the winter, the truck would always start very hard. When it was trying to start it would pump out some white smoke. Now during the summer the truck will still start hard. At one point during the winter we were getting glow plug codes, now these have gone away that its warm. We did replace the glow plug control module, but that did not solve the hard start during the winter. We figured that there was a bad glow plug which is sorting out the rest. So we then figured the hard start issue would go away with the warmer weather but it has not.
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