Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 - Upgrading To OEM Unit That Has Nav
Feb 22, 2014
I have a 2005 F250 it has the stock head unit in it and i want to upgrade to an oem unit that has nav. Will the nav units from 2006 and newer fit and plug and play in my 05 ?
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Did the upgrade to the new style mirrors the question I have is.where does the heat wire go to on the new factory switch.its a 8pin switch the pigtale from ford are all green wires so I don't know winch one to tie into and don't want to add another switch Also my 2005 was wired with heat.
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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I need to replace the front passenger side wheel hub unit on my 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 mile reg cab truck. Its been a while but I did one on my 2000 F250 without any problems. There should be a few clips inside the hub that hold the looking hub and shaft together, right? Do I need any special tools for this job? What do the bolts need to be torqued to?
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I just got a 2005 F-350. I would like to get the spare tire out without damaging the unit, but don't have the key. Is there a trick to getting it out? Would there be a way to get one from a dealer?
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Bought a new touchscreen head unit to put in my 06 lariat f250. I have all the controls on my steering wheel for heat and radio and I don't want to lose them with a new radio. This head unit does not have the 3.5mm jack for the axxes unit but has 3 wires labeled swc1 swc2 and swc ground. It supposedly has the converter built in. any views on using a headunit with these wires?
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I have a 2009 f350 xlt with sync and steering wheel controls that the stereo quit working on and I want to replace and I am having trouble finding the correct one that will work with sync. One of the local auto wreckers has a 2010 f350 lariat with the touch screen that they are willing to let go for a reasonable price. Will that head unit work in my truck without major wiring?
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2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
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F-250 2005 XLT 5.4L 4X4. Had ford for a few years now (Escape as a personal vehicle and econoline as business vehicle). Now I'm having a little problem with 4x4. It wont engage. Worked fine last week and now nothing! I did check all the fuses and when i switch to either 4Lo or 4Hi I can hear a clicking sound behind the switch but feel like it's getting blocked or something. Tries a few time then stop...
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I have had the ABS light on for about a year now. I looked thru the forums and found that the typical reason if a faulty rear VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I found a replacement part online and got it ordered and replaced the original part. Simple 5 minute fix, but it didn't fix it!
Now when I get in and start the truck the ABS light is off, but after I drive off about 20 yards the light comes back on and stays on.
The other day someone stepped out in front of me at a cross walk and I hit the brakes pretty hard and although the truck stopped in time, the rear wheels locked up, so I'm thinking the issue is at the rear.
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I came home from a week's vacation and towed my 16' toyhauler to and from the Sequoia Nat'l Park ... no issues during the entire trip. Guestimating about 5 hours after being home, everything was unpacked and the truck/trailer locked but still hitched ... suddenly the alarm went off ... all by itself! Using the ignition key, I was able to start/stop the 6.0l diesel motor, but the alarm kept going.
I pressed the lock/unlock buttons but still the alarm was going off! I repeated this a few times and concluded that only recourse was to disconnect the batteries. That stopped the alarm. While doing the disconnecting, I detected a faint electrical hot, maybe a burn kind of smell but no smoke of any kind.
I'm worrisome about reconnecting the batteries to see if the truck is back to normal ... I will probably just have it towed to a mechanic ... in any event it's going to go somewhere to be looked at this coming Monday.
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I have an 05 F-250 with the 5.4 liter motor, 4" lift, 35" tires 4x4. I have not had any problems with the truck and have 110,000 miles on it. the only thing I even did to it was replace an alternator. Recently it seems to have lost power.
I use the truck mainly for hauling my smaller horse trailer which is roughly 7500 fully loaded but most times i haul it at about 5500lbs.
I also have a 2003 7.3 which we pull at 20,000lbs no problem
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Dome light (and bed light) won't shut off. Been browsing the forums for similar problems but most of the time it is the door switch issue. I have my doubts about this since the 'Door Ajar' message in the instrument cluster is not brought up, unless a door is actually open. Similarly, when locking the truck and doing a door check, I get only one beep, means all doors are shut. 2005 Ford F-250 Lariat....
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OK....my gas cap (5.4 gasser) wasn't put on properly at the gas station. A couple of blocks later, the "Check Gas Cap" notice came on. I stopped a few blocks later, and installed the cap properly. The notice STILL came on. After messing with the cap 4 more times, I gave up, but the notice is still on. Do I need to have it "erased" like a code, or is there a problem with the cap? Everything LOOKS fine...
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05 5.4 F250 4x4. Keep getting those codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. swapped rear O2 sensors. Fuel filter twice in last 11k miles last time was 1k ago. Will the 430 code cause the lean codes from a bad cat? I've been getting the 430 code for at least 4 mo's.
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So, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
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2005 F-250, Diesel, 105K miles, all stock, fuel and oil filters changed in May, about 4000 miles ago.
three times in the last 4 days the truck has seemingly run out of fuel. Got a full tank about a week ago, at the same place I always go, so I doubt it is bad fuel. It ran thru a 1/4 tank with no problems.
4 days ago, it wouldn't start. It just didn't seem like it was getting fuel. It sat for several hours and then ran fine for about 15 minutes and then slowly died out. It wouldn't restart. It sat for 8 hours, and then started again, ran for about 15 minutes and I cut it off.
The next day, it started fine, I drove it 3 miles, cut it off, and an hour later it started but ran for only 10 -15 seconds and it slowly died out just like I was running out of fuel.
I started it this morning and it fired up right away. I let it idle in the driveway for 30 minutes, and it ran fine. I cut it off, went to start it 30 seconds later and it won't fire again.
The backyard mechanic I use for simple stuff wants to replace fuel filters and see what happens. BTW - twice when it wouldn't start, he hooked up his computer and it had no error codes. You can hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key on and the mechanic said he could feel the pump working when he put his hand on it.
Should I let him do that or is there something else we should be looking at?
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Ok says injector pressure sensor low first guess was the upgrade to the blue spring. Did that code clear for a day then comes back on looking at the hfcm but kinda unsure? Came on after we got the real cold snap and i had to buy a block heater I don't see one on here i also added diesel 911 to the tank this is a 05 f250 w 6.0l....
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My 2005 F250 started stuttering, lurching, having wild swings in rpms, nearly dying at stop signs, no pickup when stepping on the gas, then taking off like a bat outta hell. After reading many, many posts here and on other sites, I have concluded that the most likely culprit is the ICP sensor, so I picked one up today (along with a EBP sensor - another story). It appears from the many posts that I have read that Ford/Navistar have frequently changed the location of these sensors. My question is: Where are the ICP and EBP sensors located on the 2005s (actual manufacture date is 07/2004)?
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I have a 05 f250 diesel 6.0 with 173k. Between 35-60 mph it has started a humming sound and when the throttle is released the sound stops. I still have power boost etc. Someone mentioned degas cap, turbo pedestal or turbo pipes cracked.
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I bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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