Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 - Transmission Will Not Go Into Lock Up
Mar 5, 2015
I am again trying to fix my truck. 2005 F-250 6.0 4wd, automatic. Truck now has 89K on it. Truck does not seam to go into lockup mode while driving down the road. it started just after I spun my wheels in a snow storm. No symptom's previous to this. No codes in dash no lights and also no codes when I checked it with an obd code reader.
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I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
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Steering problem... 2005 F250; Four Wheel Drive; Automatic; 93,000 miles; gas engine. The basic description that I have been giving people is that the steering will "stick" or "lock up" to the point that I have to use some force to get the steering wheel past the stuck point, when it releases, it's a " jerk, " THEN it sticks the other direction and I have to force the steering wheel back the other way again. So, in other words, when the truck decides to do this, in order to drive a straight line I am literally turning the wheel back and forth, probably only an eighth of a turn each way, but back and forth. If it's bad enough, I have to pull the truck over.
If I pull over, sit and turn the wheel back and forth a few times, loosening it up (when I'm stopped, I can't say that I really feel it stick at all), I can pull back on the road and be fine. A lot of the time, it happens right after I've turned a wide corner (not specifically right or left. It does it both ways), say taking a corner at an intersection as a yield or turning through a wide intersection onto say, an entrance ramp to the highway. I would say in a lot of cases, even when the truck doesn't have "an episode," I can still feel a stiff spot when I'm driving down the road/highway. This is not a vibration-type problem.
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I bought my F-250 Super Duty 6.0 last October, and I am extremely happy with it comparing to my former '03 Dodge 2500 TD. The Ford drives so much better!
There is only one problem I have with it. Without pulling it shifts nice and has lots of power. A Month ago I bought a fifth wheel trailer and I hardly notice it behind the truck, also it doesn't use more diesel pulling. However going uphill the transmission seems to slip, and I can hear (sounds like) a fan running loud? I loose speed.
All the temperature gauges stay normal, no difference. It starts to pull worse. I replaced de tranny filters, inside and the outside one. Also I did put the correct transmission fluid in there, no difference. Almost no grindings in the oilpan/magnet.
I looked on many sites, but cannot find anything on this. Personally I think it's the torque converter? My final step would be to have the transmission rebuild, with the best parts available, (close to WA, ID, MO)...
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I have a 2005 f250 super duty turbo diesel 6.0 automatic. The problem I'm having is, when I engage the tow/haul button the transmission doesn't down shift unless I feather the pedal. Also the engine will overheat at times. I've replaced the thermostat, but that's all so far.
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What a 1999 f250 super duty triton v10 would have for a front axle and why mine won't lock in 4x4 at the front drivers side hub it have warn hubs and will lock in on passenger side but on divers with ether just grind or not go in at all...
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I have an 04 f250 the 4wd won't lock in for some reason. The truck has manual locking hubs (turn them to the right to lock in 4wd or turn them to the left to unlock them) and I get the light on the dash just fine but the truck doesn't actually lock in.
When i I put it in 4 low it feels like it's in but it's not. I also noticed that when I put it in park while it's in 4 low it makes a crazy sound like it would when you put a car in park while you're still moving and the park pin makes that clicking noise.
Anywhere in particular I should start to look? Nothing up in the front end looks abnormal or out of place.
I've had the truck 10 years. Never had any 4wd related issues. I did however replace the transmission in December (and I did successfully use the 4wd after the transmission was installed).
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I have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
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I have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
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2001 F-250 7.3. The auto lock hubs are not working on the truck lock hubs in and all works fine. First thought is the vacuum system has a leak or something of the sort. Had truck at the shop they are telling me the GEM module controls the vacuum to engage the auto hubs and the signal is not coming from the GEM and it need to be replaced. It was the GEM causing the problem.
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I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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Just started a job with a company that has F250 super duty service vehicles and I am puzzled. All the answers I find don't seem to apply to this vehicle. With a full front seat and the big center console it kinda sucks to have to reach over or walk around to manual lock passenger door 10 times a day. I do NOT have power door lock buttons, number pad on handle, or any type of keyless remote. It seems I only have the safety feature lock/unlock at start up and cutoff. So is there anyway to make it not unlock passenger door when I turn ignition off? I even tried pulling fuse 17 that is marked as lock motors thinking that was related with no success. The dash display doesn't have the option to disable as listed in the manual as one of the 4 ways to turn it off. And for reference it does not behave the way the manual says about autolocking at 12mph. Its instant lock on key turn on and instant unlock both doors on key off.
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Today I purchased a 2002 f250 GAS super duty 5.4. The first thing I've noticed wrong is: The driver door doesn't lock with the remote control but the passenger door does. I also noticed: when I shut the driver door, the dome light comes on and stays on but when i open the driver door, it shuts off (as if something's reversed). Do you think these two situations are related, and how can I fix it?
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My 2005 has the ESOF system which has worked flawlessly. Recently I had upper and lower ball joints done and after that repair I had no auto locking hubs. ( independent shop messed up seal install ) they redid the job and it now seems like my front hubs are locking automatically because I am getting binding while turning. So this is the problem.. the front wheels do not "pull" only the rear wheels spin. If I manually lock the hubs I have 4x4 and can get out of being nearly stuck and everything works normally. What is wrong here? Does the shop need to redo the job again?
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
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F-250 2005 XLT 5.4L 4X4. Had ford for a few years now (Escape as a personal vehicle and econoline as business vehicle). Now I'm having a little problem with 4x4. It wont engage. Worked fine last week and now nothing! I did check all the fuses and when i switch to either 4Lo or 4Hi I can hear a clicking sound behind the switch but feel like it's getting blocked or something. Tries a few time then stop...
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I have had the ABS light on for about a year now. I looked thru the forums and found that the typical reason if a faulty rear VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I found a replacement part online and got it ordered and replaced the original part. Simple 5 minute fix, but it didn't fix it!
Now when I get in and start the truck the ABS light is off, but after I drive off about 20 yards the light comes back on and stays on.
The other day someone stepped out in front of me at a cross walk and I hit the brakes pretty hard and although the truck stopped in time, the rear wheels locked up, so I'm thinking the issue is at the rear.
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I came home from a week's vacation and towed my 16' toyhauler to and from the Sequoia Nat'l Park ... no issues during the entire trip. Guestimating about 5 hours after being home, everything was unpacked and the truck/trailer locked but still hitched ... suddenly the alarm went off ... all by itself! Using the ignition key, I was able to start/stop the 6.0l diesel motor, but the alarm kept going.
I pressed the lock/unlock buttons but still the alarm was going off! I repeated this a few times and concluded that only recourse was to disconnect the batteries. That stopped the alarm. While doing the disconnecting, I detected a faint electrical hot, maybe a burn kind of smell but no smoke of any kind.
I'm worrisome about reconnecting the batteries to see if the truck is back to normal ... I will probably just have it towed to a mechanic ... in any event it's going to go somewhere to be looked at this coming Monday.
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I been having a issue with my truck lately. It's a 2008 with only 88,000 miles. When doing 55mph it feels like the transmission is slipping. Sometimes it will do it over and over. If I speed up to about 60mph it goes away.its has gotten worse in the last month or so. Hoping it's nothing major.
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1999 F250 SD... Tranny fluid is low, tranny slipped one time on me. I checked the fluid and it's low. No drips on the garage floor, so I'll have to inspect closer. But my question is can I add new fluid without screwing it up even more? It's got 170,000 miles and I doubt the fluid has ever been changed. I just bought the truck last week, so I can't say for sure, but it hasn't had a regular flush or change. It doesn't smell burnt but it's just a little darker than new fluid. I was told by the guy I bought it from that the torque converter was changed in it not too long ago.
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