Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 Steering Stuck Or Lock Up / Jerk When Releases
Feb 28, 2015
Steering problem... 2005 F250; Four Wheel Drive; Automatic; 93,000 miles; gas engine. The basic description that I have been giving people is that the steering will "stick" or "lock up" to the point that I have to use some force to get the steering wheel past the stuck point, when it releases, it's a " jerk, " THEN it sticks the other direction and I have to force the steering wheel back the other way again. So, in other words, when the truck decides to do this, in order to drive a straight line I am literally turning the wheel back and forth, probably only an eighth of a turn each way, but back and forth. If it's bad enough, I have to pull the truck over.
If I pull over, sit and turn the wheel back and forth a few times, loosening it up (when I'm stopped, I can't say that I really feel it stick at all), I can pull back on the road and be fine. A lot of the time, it happens right after I've turned a wide corner (not specifically right or left. It does it both ways), say taking a corner at an intersection as a yield or turning through a wide intersection onto say, an entrance ramp to the highway. I would say in a lot of cases, even when the truck doesn't have "an episode," I can still feel a stiff spot when I'm driving down the road/highway. This is not a vibration-type problem.
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2001 F250. My drivers side seat belt buckle randomly releases and it's getting worse. Any sources on a new one or used even. Also, what other vehicles may have the same part number if I go used.
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I am again trying to fix my truck. 2005 F-250 6.0 4wd, automatic. Truck now has 89K on it. Truck does not seam to go into lockup mode while driving down the road. it started just after I spun my wheels in a snow storm. No symptom's previous to this. No codes in dash no lights and also no codes when I checked it with an obd code reader.
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I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
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05 F250 4x4 6.0... Lately, I have noticed a little stiffness in my steering. Mainly when I turn left - it just feels like the truck doesn't want to come back to center like it should...almost like a tire is low on air (they're not - I checked) or a tire has laid over.
I have checked power steering fluid and looked at all bushings underneath. Any chance that the steering stabilizer could be causing this issue? Also...do these trucks not have any grease fittings in the front end? I have looked twice and still haven't found any (in my defense, I haven't had the truck very long)...
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So I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
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I took my truck to an alignment shop to have him look over my truck to find a steering wheel jerk and a loud clunk noise. He believes it's in the transfer case driveline. Said to remove the driveline then drive it around and see if it goes away, if it does then that's the problem. So to the question, how to properly take this out? Do I need to make marks with a paint pen anywhere to line things back up or does it matter?
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What a 1999 f250 super duty triton v10 would have for a front axle and why mine won't lock in 4x4 at the front drivers side hub it have warn hubs and will lock in on passenger side but on divers with ether just grind or not go in at all...
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the mechanism that locks the steering wheel is stuck. not the ignition key cylinder (already removed that). how do I release that mechanism to free the steering wheel.
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I have an 04 f250 the 4wd won't lock in for some reason. The truck has manual locking hubs (turn them to the right to lock in 4wd or turn them to the left to unlock them) and I get the light on the dash just fine but the truck doesn't actually lock in.
When i I put it in 4 low it feels like it's in but it's not. I also noticed that when I put it in park while it's in 4 low it makes a crazy sound like it would when you put a car in park while you're still moving and the park pin makes that clicking noise.
Anywhere in particular I should start to look? Nothing up in the front end looks abnormal or out of place.
I've had the truck 10 years. Never had any 4wd related issues. I did however replace the transmission in December (and I did successfully use the 4wd after the transmission was installed).
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
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My defrost is stuck no matter which way I turn the control it won't come off. It just started doing this today. I think it might be a vacuum leak. When I turn my switch on the pump still clicking whether or not it's pumping.
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I have a 2006 F250 V10 that has this issue most of the time but not all the time. Start her up, foot on brake and the shifter wont move. I use the bypass method to get her moving when this happens. It seems to be doing it more often lately. Also I recently has a cruise control issue. Hit the brake to shut it off and it doesn't stop it! Not sure if the 2 are related. The internet said I need to replace the switch on the master cylinder to fix the cruise control. I got lots of different stories on the park issue.
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My 2013 F-250 Super-Duty periodically won't start or come out of park. I have tried the ignition trick of tuning it to first position but with no luck. Sometimes I can see the light for the indicating light for being in park flashing on and off rapidly and manage to get it into neutral to start. It appears to be completely random. I potentially happens when I drive it for longer periods or do frequent stops around town.
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I have a 2010 F250 with 154000km (96000 miles) that we bought last week. When I was looking it over during the purchase I noticed the front axle didn't lockup in "auto", in manual lock it seemed fine so I figured vacuum leak or something like that. Yesterday morning I was in the yard and got a little hung up in snow drifts so just got out, locked the hubs and switched to 4x4 and I think the front end didn't engage at all.
So later on I had it in the shop installing the two way radio and decided to check the front end out a little more thoroughly. Vacuum lines seem fine, hubs turn fine but I notice the axle shafts both move up and down almost a quarter inch, that seems excessively loose to me. I've been doing some research on the internet and it appears the front hubs are serviced as a unit, also some information seems to point to needle bearings within the actual locking hub mechanism itself?
So the questions:
1. Does that front axle shaft seem excessive? What are the specs?
2. Can I replace bearings and seals only or do these units come only as assemblies? Inner hub, outer hub units? Wheel bearings seem fine.
3. With that much play is there a chance the outer axle shafts are worn also?
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I have an issue in the passenger door lock on my 2000 F250. My key rarely works on the passenger door. If it does work it takes a lot of wiggling and trying.
I have power locks that work normally and the key works great on the driver's door. How it works but I've heard there is an anti-theft feature where if you hit the lock button twice on the fob the door locks no longer work with the key until they are unlocked with the fob again. I figured my lock issue was related to that.
How to work on this system? What might cause this?
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I have a 2001 SD 7.3 Manual, in which either the rod or the actuator has broken. I can tell yet which it is. I can mover the lower actuator back and for but that doesn't tell me which part is broken. I have the parts on order to replace. I have been searching without success to find detailed instructions to make the replacement.
I run a small shop away from my day job but have never dug into one of these. Being the various small parts and sequence of disassembly/Assembly I want to do it correctly the first time. It's very strange how you can go to YouTube and search for everything under the sun with great results, except for this.
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Finally finishing up my 2001 F250SD 4X4 project. Decided to pull down the front axle to replace the dust seals. I've got everything apart including the large knuckle seals. Tried to pull the passenger side axle out but it only moves about an inch to an inch and a half before it stops. Took off the differential cover to look for damage or something obvious but I don't see anything wrong. The axle is moving within the splines of the spider gear but that's it. Stumped and sitting on jacks!
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So I just got an 01 f250, 5.4. Really loving this truck so far. Noticed as I was driving my gas gauge is stuck at full. One time it randomly dropped down to about half tank where I think it should be, but it jumped back up to full. Anything to suggest trying? I tried nailing a speed bump to knock the float loose at 30 and I'm not sure if it worked. Gauge goes to E when I shut the truck off, but as soon as I turn it on it jumps up to full. Should I try hitting the tank with a mallet?
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