Ok says injector pressure sensor low first guess was the upgrade to the blue spring. Did that code clear for a day then comes back on looking at the hfcm but kinda unsure? Came on after we got the real cold snap and i had to buy a block heater I don't see one on here i also added diesel 911 to the tank this is a 05 f250 w 6.0l....
View 2 RepliesMy 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
I have a 2005 F250 with the 5.4. This truck has been one thing after another, as you can tell from my other posts. The problem this time is, if it cranks hard to start because it's cold(can be anywhere from as high as 32, but usually in the teens) it will start just fine, then several minutes later throw the check engine light. Put the scanner on, like clockwork, 4 codes, always cylinder 1 misfire pending, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions pending, cylinder 1 misfire confirmed, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions confirmed.
Sometimes you can hear a slight lope in the idle when it does this. Clear the codes, runs perfectly fine. It will never do it after it's been started for the day. Some days you would think for sure it would throw it when it's frigid and the winds been blowing on it, it doesn't bother, other days you wouldn't think it would, and it does.Can the computer think that since it didn't start right up, it misfired?
I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
View 13 RepliesF-250 2005 XLT 5.4L 4X4. Had ford for a few years now (Escape as a personal vehicle and econoline as business vehicle). Now I'm having a little problem with 4x4. It wont engage. Worked fine last week and now nothing! I did check all the fuses and when i switch to either 4Lo or 4Hi I can hear a clicking sound behind the switch but feel like it's getting blocked or something. Tries a few time then stop...
View 14 RepliesI have had the ABS light on for about a year now. I looked thru the forums and found that the typical reason if a faulty rear VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I found a replacement part online and got it ordered and replaced the original part. Simple 5 minute fix, but it didn't fix it!
Now when I get in and start the truck the ABS light is off, but after I drive off about 20 yards the light comes back on and stays on.
The other day someone stepped out in front of me at a cross walk and I hit the brakes pretty hard and although the truck stopped in time, the rear wheels locked up, so I'm thinking the issue is at the rear.
I came home from a week's vacation and towed my 16' toyhauler to and from the Sequoia Nat'l Park ... no issues during the entire trip. Guestimating about 5 hours after being home, everything was unpacked and the truck/trailer locked but still hitched ... suddenly the alarm went off ... all by itself! Using the ignition key, I was able to start/stop the 6.0l diesel motor, but the alarm kept going.
I pressed the lock/unlock buttons but still the alarm was going off! I repeated this a few times and concluded that only recourse was to disconnect the batteries. That stopped the alarm. While doing the disconnecting, I detected a faint electrical hot, maybe a burn kind of smell but no smoke of any kind.
I'm worrisome about reconnecting the batteries to see if the truck is back to normal ... I will probably just have it towed to a mechanic ... in any event it's going to go somewhere to be looked at this coming Monday.
My 99 F250 with a V10 had an abs light come on and then it would go off. Now the ABS light stays on and it drove fine for a little while but the other night the Service Engine light came on along with the ABS light. Tranny was shifting harsh, winding out and I scanned the codes and got P0500. Is it the sensor on top of the rear differential or is it the ABS light causing the problem?
View 2 RepliesWhere to find the PCM 4 digit code on 2001 F250 superduty/v10- Lariat?
View 3 RepliesI have an 05 F-250 with the 5.4 liter motor, 4" lift, 35" tires 4x4. I have not had any problems with the truck and have 110,000 miles on it. the only thing I even did to it was replace an alternator. Recently it seems to have lost power.
I use the truck mainly for hauling my smaller horse trailer which is roughly 7500 fully loaded but most times i haul it at about 5500lbs.
I also have a 2003 7.3 which we pull at 20,000lbs no problem
Dome light (and bed light) won't shut off. Been browsing the forums for similar problems but most of the time it is the door switch issue. I have my doubts about this since the 'Door Ajar' message in the instrument cluster is not brought up, unless a door is actually open. Similarly, when locking the truck and doing a door check, I get only one beep, means all doors are shut. 2005 Ford F-250 Lariat....
View 3 RepliesOK....my gas cap (5.4 gasser) wasn't put on properly at the gas station. A couple of blocks later, the "Check Gas Cap" notice came on. I stopped a few blocks later, and installed the cap properly. The notice STILL came on. After messing with the cap 4 more times, I gave up, but the notice is still on. Do I need to have it "erased" like a code, or is there a problem with the cap? Everything LOOKS fine...
View 2 Replies05 5.4 F250 4x4. Keep getting those codes. Can't find any vacuum leaks. swapped rear O2 sensors. Fuel filter twice in last 11k miles last time was 1k ago. Will the 430 code cause the lean codes from a bad cat? I've been getting the 430 code for at least 4 mo's.
View 6 RepliesSo, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
View 7 Replies2005 F-250, Diesel, 105K miles, all stock, fuel and oil filters changed in May, about 4000 miles ago.
three times in the last 4 days the truck has seemingly run out of fuel. Got a full tank about a week ago, at the same place I always go, so I doubt it is bad fuel. It ran thru a 1/4 tank with no problems.
4 days ago, it wouldn't start. It just didn't seem like it was getting fuel. It sat for several hours and then ran fine for about 15 minutes and then slowly died out. It wouldn't restart. It sat for 8 hours, and then started again, ran for about 15 minutes and I cut it off.
The next day, it started fine, I drove it 3 miles, cut it off, and an hour later it started but ran for only 10 -15 seconds and it slowly died out just like I was running out of fuel.
I started it this morning and it fired up right away. I let it idle in the driveway for 30 minutes, and it ran fine. I cut it off, went to start it 30 seconds later and it won't fire again.
The backyard mechanic I use for simple stuff wants to replace fuel filters and see what happens. BTW - twice when it wouldn't start, he hooked up his computer and it had no error codes. You can hear the fuel pump running when you turn the key on and the mechanic said he could feel the pump working when he put his hand on it.
Should I let him do that or is there something else we should be looking at?
I have a 2005 F250 it has the stock head unit in it and i want to upgrade to an oem unit that has nav. Will the nav units from 2006 and newer fit and plug and play in my 05 ?
View 7 RepliesMy 2005 F250 started stuttering, lurching, having wild swings in rpms, nearly dying at stop signs, no pickup when stepping on the gas, then taking off like a bat outta hell. After reading many, many posts here and on other sites, I have concluded that the most likely culprit is the ICP sensor, so I picked one up today (along with a EBP sensor - another story). It appears from the many posts that I have read that Ford/Navistar have frequently changed the location of these sensors. My question is: Where are the ICP and EBP sensors located on the 2005s (actual manufacture date is 07/2004)?
View 6 RepliesI have a 05 f250 diesel 6.0 with 173k. Between 35-60 mph it has started a humming sound and when the throttle is released the sound stops. I still have power boost etc. Someone mentioned degas cap, turbo pedestal or turbo pipes cracked.
View 14 RepliesI bought an hid kit for my 2005 f250 the dog lights work fine but the headlights won't stay on. They come on for about 30 seconds then shut off. How to fix this. I've swapped the ballast with the fog light ballast and it does the same thing.
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