I've been having issues with the charging system on my 2005. The battery was 7 years old, so I replaced it. Now, the battery light comes on dimly (and flickers) when at low RPM. I am thinking alternator. I replaced one on my 2002 F150, but haven't done a 250. How hard are they to get to and replace? This is on a 5.4 gasser.....
View 3 Replies2004 F250 v10 xtl 260xxx. Started off by using my remote start, truck started up ran for about 5 sec then shut off, then restart itself and shut back off. When I manually started it, it ran fine. I noticed my battery light was on and as I was driving it would flicker. First thing I did when I got home was clean all my connections to see if that worked. Battery light still on, checked my volts on my battery and they were at about 11.8 with a slow but steady drop while truck was idling.then checked my alt, that too was at about 11.9 with a stead drop.
Alt was only about 7 months old and I had a warranty on it so I had it replaced at Napa and had them test it there. Good alt. Installed the new alt charged up my battery and turned it over. Battery light still on and flickering. Checked all my wires for corrosion, checked all my grounds. Everything checked out. Checked my battery again 12.4 with the truck off, cranked it over and it was back at 11.9 with a steady drop and almost the same reading with the alt. I replaced the battery as well yesterday, seeing how it was about 7 years old.
I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
The battery light blinks in my truck. It's not a controlled blink, but it flickers like a loose bulb. It started a week or so ago. It would blip every once in a while. Gradually it would start to flicker more often. At first I thought it was belt-related but it isn't related to the transmission shifting at all. So if you're thinking that it's belt-related, you're going to have to explain why it doesn't blink either right before or right after a transmission shift (i.e. a rapid change in engine speed).
Earlier in the week, the light was flickering so hard that it was virtually on. I drove home last night and didn't see it once, although that's the first time I haven't seen it happen at all in a week. The battery gauge itself doesn't move a bit while this is happening. I have a cigarette lighter voltmeter and it shows a pretty steady 14.1 volts regardless of whether the light is flickering or not.
I had the batteries tested in my truck by a real battery shop about 4 months ago and they are fine. The battery connections all seem tight and clean, and the belt, tensioner and all that seems fine. So..What can cause a battery light to come on that isn't voltage related?
for some reason my battery light flickers when im driving regular and on the highway. I have had both batteries checked and they were at 50 percent charge and both were good so therefore I assumed it was my alternator. I removed alternator had it check and it passed all test. Everything was checked at o'reilly and autozone
View 8 RepliesMy escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.
My 05 f250 5.4 has developed a whine that is easy to hear in low rpms. I don't think it goes away with higher rpms, but instead is just masked by the sound of the engine. It will do this in drive, reverse, and also when it is revved in park. What this could be?
View 10 RepliesI have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
View 1 RepliesI have had the ABS light on for about a year now. I looked thru the forums and found that the typical reason if a faulty rear VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I found a replacement part online and got it ordered and replaced the original part. Simple 5 minute fix, but it didn't fix it!
Now when I get in and start the truck the ABS light is off, but after I drive off about 20 yards the light comes back on and stays on.
The other day someone stepped out in front of me at a cross walk and I hit the brakes pretty hard and although the truck stopped in time, the rear wheels locked up, so I'm thinking the issue is at the rear.
I was driving and all of a sudden the radio died, battery light came on, Power windows and interior lights died, gauges died speedometer went all the way up to 100. The Head lights, turn signals and heater work. When I got home I opened the hood and the battery was boiling.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 f250 super duty with a v10
i was towing a trailer up and down lots of hills and the battery light on the dash came on. there was no effect on the performance right away. as i kept driving into town i was starting to worry if i would make it.
as i pulled into the carls jr parking lot, the ABS light came on, all the gauges shut off and the truck died just as i pulled into a parking spot.
i figured it was the alternator, had it tested at AutoZone (failed twice) so i swapped it out for a lifetime warranty AutoZone one (very small town, nothing other than an AutoZone)
the truck started after being jumped but the battery light was still on. i figured that the bad alternator killed the battery. the battery was 4 years old and they usually only last 3 years in the AZ heat so i bought a new duralast gold.
the battery light was STILL on after that. the Autozone guy ran his test--- engine off- battery tested fine starting---he said something was wrong with the starter (but it cranked awesomely!) running--alternator tested fine
i just can figure out why when i drive down the road i dash light will turn on and off at random times. the truck seems to run fine. I've even been under the hood shaking the wire while i had someone watching the dash and i cant seem to make the light go on or off
Dome light (and bed light) won't shut off. Been browsing the forums for similar problems but most of the time it is the door switch issue. I have my doubts about this since the 'Door Ajar' message in the instrument cluster is not brought up, unless a door is actually open. Similarly, when locking the truck and doing a door check, I get only one beep, means all doors are shut. 2005 Ford F-250 Lariat....
View 3 RepliesI am wondering IF THERE ARE ANY CONNECTIONS WITH TOWING AND THE ABS LIGHT coming on? I just did 360 mile round trip on I84 and I 81 in western NY and eastern PA with decent hill climbs (some with 6% or so grades) - think coal country. I was pulling 8,000 or so pounds (trailer with a jeep on it).
On the way out, the ABS light came on. I pulled into a rest stop and shut her down for a bit. I had been driving on this terrain for the better part of 2 hours. I restarted and the ABS light turned off for the balance of the trip. It was cold (in the 20's) outside. On the return trip 2 days later, the same thing happened after 90 minutes. I stopped again and restarted the trip which turned off the light. This time, the light came back on 10 or so minutes later.
This is the only occasion when my ABS light has come on.
2005 F250 Crew Cab SuperDuty 6.0L
2005 F250 4x4, manual locking hubs, ABS light stays on. Plugged it up, front sensors had a bad signal. Replaced both front sensors, still had light. Pulled out the sensors, cleaned the sensor rings the best we could with a little screwdriver. Installed the sensors, cleared the codes. Drove the truck a few miles, light came back on. Plugged it up, same codes. Removed the sensors and there was grease back on the sensor rings. Cleaned it up again, ran through the motions, drove it, light comes back on. Is there supposed to be grease on the sensor ring? It keeps coming back in every time it is driven. My next guess would be the hub bearings are going bad?
View 4 RepliesI recently bought this truck. and the original owner said since he owned it after a couple of minutes after starting it will say water in fuel in the info monitor. I press esc or whatever it goes away and doesn't come back until the engine is shut off and turned back on again. What might be the issue?
View 7 RepliesLooking for a diagram of where the transmission temp sensor is found ..... I have a 2005 f 250 5.4l FX4.... My tow haul light keeps flashing...
View 4 Replies2005 6.0 F250 super duty ... I was getting the water in fuel light as I have in the past. I drained the fuel pump on the frame like always, but it came back. So I changed the filters thinking this would do it but the light comes on every time I drive. What gives?
View 4 Replies03 f 250 super duty, my battery light came on and when I accelerate my dash gauges shut down and radio turns off, if I idle or stay under twenty MPH, everything works fine. Battery and alternator test good, lights never dim, any thoughts
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 ford f250 fx4 won't activate when I turn the key the light illuminates then turns off but when I start the truck and select it it doesn't go into gear
View 2 RepliesI have a 05 f250 with a 5.4 I'm having issues with I was driving along the truck started chugging along and the check engine light came on so I checked it with my bully dog the codes that came up were p0192 which is fuel pressure sensor circuit low the next one is p0452 is evaporative emission pressure sensor switch low also came up with p0191 tonight haven't dug into that yet.
I change out the pressure sensor switch from a buddies truck didn't make a difference put my sensor in his truck his worked fine I clean the throttle position sensor and The maf also put a new air filter on not throwing a misfire code but seems like it may be. A little background on the truck it's a 5.4 3valve with a bully dog tuner, mufflers been removed added straight pipe mechanically that's all that's done
Pulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.
After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.
Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.
Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.