So I have a 2005 f250 Super Duty 6.0 diesel it is the xlt with leather. So I don't much care for the steering wheels on this truck so i purchase a 05 f150 steering wheel. The splines and everything match up but the plug for the cruise control does not, need a wiring diagram or have done the swap and can tell me what wires connect where.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 6.0. Its an XLT Trim but i want the features of a Lariat. would a Dash Swap Work or is it pointless?
View 2 Repliesjust bought this f250 seems to walk on the road alot, had it looked at has new balljoints, he says everything seems tight except there is lots of play at the gearbox, is it recommended to have it rebuilt or buy a reman, was told that even the reman seems to be the same way
View 14 Replies05 F250 4x4 6.0... Lately, I have noticed a little stiffness in my steering. Mainly when I turn left - it just feels like the truck doesn't want to come back to center like it should...almost like a tire is low on air (they're not - I checked) or a tire has laid over.
I have checked power steering fluid and looked at all bushings underneath. Any chance that the steering stabilizer could be causing this issue? Also...do these trucks not have any grease fittings in the front end? I have looked twice and still haven't found any (in my defense, I haven't had the truck very long)...
My 2010 6.4 F250 seems has a loose steering wheel. The steering of the truck hasn't changed nor has there been uneven wear on the tires. It doesn't drift if I let the steering wheel go. Had the front end inspected and was told it's all good under there.
YET, my actual steering wheel is loose. I can grab the wheel and wiggle it front to back and side to side. It FEELS like the bolts that hold the steering wheel to the column are loose. What was the cause/repair? Is this something I can repair myself or a local shop? Or is this a dealer fix?
I have a F250 SD with a 6.0 diesel. My steering wheel is loose. I tested and know for sure is not a problem inside the cabin. Fallow the line thru the linkage to the steering box by the left front wheel. I found an adjustable switch there. Just on top of the steering box. It has a lock nut that must be loosen to adjust what it looks like a hex. Very hard to reach. I have watch some Youtube videos but on different vehicles.
View 1 RepliesI've got an 04 f250 4x4 crew cab. I just replaced the upper and lower ball joints on both sides and also the drag link. My alignment was off from the bad ball joints so I had it aligned after I did all of this. Now the steering is really weird. Its like something is to tight. I can barely keep the truck straight because every time I barely move the wheel I seem to be going one way or another and getting it straight is nearly impossible to the point I look like a drunk driver. I can turn the wheel to go around a curve and let go of it and it will stay that way until I turn it back. It won't return itself. I'm kind of lost.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 superduty 250 4x4 with the 6.0. I am having a violent shake in the steering wheel mostly and can feel it in throttle at about 45 to 60 and at 72 there is s growel. Have changed tires, wheels checked all ball joints tie rods wheel bearings ujoints. Don't matter brakes on or off, od on or off nothing changes it. I really don't know what else to check.
View 10 RepliesI had some steering issues with my truck so took it for an evaluation at pep boys. They recommended a new steering gear box and tie rod that hooks to the pitman arm so I had them replace them. Steering was improved but now the wheel is canted to the left or right depending on when I make a turn. When I make a left turn, the wheel is canted about 10 o'clock. When I make a right turn, it's canted about 1 o'clock.
I looked under and had my brother turn the wheel and didn't really notice any thing loose. I lifted the front and noticed the left wheel bearings need to be replaced. I also noticed the shocks were shot and replaced them but it didn't make a difference in the crooked wheel.
Do you think it's the wheel bearing that can cause this? How about the ball joints? The truck has 407k miles and I bought it a month ago. Previous owner said he never replaced any steering components. Should I just replace all steering components with the Moog kit? I'd like to hold off on the $600+ kit for now as I just bought a a boat and the boat needs some stuff. I hope to find that one thing (hopefully not more) that's loose.
I have a 2005 f350 lariat 6.0. My horn, cruise volume, heat and fan controls on the wheel are not working. The airbag light isn't on. I am thinking that it's the clock spring. The stereo controls were intermittent for a while so I think it's the clock spring. I just want to be sure. Anything I could check?
View 2 Replies2004 F250 SuperDuty 6.0L Diesel. The turn signal (left or right), it would make a buzzing noise, so I located the relay under the steering wheel (by putting my hand on it and seeing which one was buzzing) and replaced it, I bought a replacement at Schucks, then the buzzing noise went away, and the clicking noise is back.
But.... I don't see the turn signal lights in the dashboard and the turn lights are not working, I checked, what could be the problem ? I read the owners manual, in the fuse box under the steering wheel, fuze #18 is used for turn lights, but it is not blown.
I found one thread in FTE regarding replacing instrument cluster bulbs but the solution was to contact Circuit Board Medics. I have one dark area on the right side of the tach and another dark area on the left side of the speedo. Probably the same bulb that's out. Also, can attempt to replace the bulbs (assuming its a bulb and not a fiber optic of some sort) in the steering wheel volume and fan controls?
View 3 RepliesSteering problem... 2005 F250; Four Wheel Drive; Automatic; 93,000 miles; gas engine. The basic description that I have been giving people is that the steering will "stick" or "lock up" to the point that I have to use some force to get the steering wheel past the stuck point, when it releases, it's a " jerk, " THEN it sticks the other direction and I have to force the steering wheel back the other way again. So, in other words, when the truck decides to do this, in order to drive a straight line I am literally turning the wheel back and forth, probably only an eighth of a turn each way, but back and forth. If it's bad enough, I have to pull the truck over.
If I pull over, sit and turn the wheel back and forth a few times, loosening it up (when I'm stopped, I can't say that I really feel it stick at all), I can pull back on the road and be fine. A lot of the time, it happens right after I've turned a wide corner (not specifically right or left. It does it both ways), say taking a corner at an intersection as a yield or turning through a wide intersection onto say, an entrance ramp to the highway. I would say in a lot of cases, even when the truck doesn't have "an episode," I can still feel a stiff spot when I'm driving down the road/highway. This is not a vibration-type problem.
I have a 02 F250 4x4 5.4. As I drive and when pulling into a driveway I hear a clunk that can be felt in the floor and the steering wheel. I've replaced the wheel bearings and seals, shocks, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings, tie rod ends at the gear box and "right hand inner". The other two tie rods are tight and so is the track bar. I cannot duplicate the sound if I jack it up and move parts around with a pry bar. I can however move the steer box sector shaft upwards about an 1/8. I've adjusted the screw but it didn't do anything. Could it be the steer box or the springs? I've even mounted a GoPro underneath but everything moves and I can't tell why it is.
View 14 RepliesLove my '11 f250 SD 4WD CC SB. 6.2 with 3.73 e-locker. I've got 5 Star tunes in it, and the truck is a joy to drive empty, and tows my current 7k camper fine, though on steep inclines I wish I had the 4:30 gears.
Well, we just bought a bigger trailer, dry weight is an addtl 2400+ at 9400, so I'll need to do something.
I don't want a different truck, don't want (another trouble-prone) diesel. I think with 4:30s and the tune, I should be fine towing that trailer (with gear and passengers, probably 11-11.5k loaded). Not doing mountains here, just Michigan hills.
What's the best way to "do" a gear swap? I know if I buy a set of gears and a shop screws Em up, it's gonna whine/hum and still cost 2k to do (truck is 4wd)
I'm up in the boonies and finding a shop to swap the gears will be a problem. Getting Em done right will be even MORE trouble.
Can I just find 4:30 axles ans have them swapped (anything in t-case or sensors need to be touched?). I don't care if I lose the e-locker, I never use it.
Bought a new touchscreen head unit to put in my 06 lariat f250. I have all the controls on my steering wheel for heat and radio and I don't want to lose them with a new radio. This head unit does not have the 3.5mm jack for the axxes unit but has 3 wires labeled swc1 swc2 and swc ground. It supposedly has the converter built in. any views on using a headunit with these wires?
View 3 RepliesIs it possible to put a 7.3 ltr from a 1997 van in my 2004 f250.....6.0 has cost me my fair share and would like to swap, 7.3 was giving to me because body is smashed i know engine is good , runs and drives
View 3 RepliesI just went from 3.73 to 4.30 gears on my 2007 f250 6.0. It has the standard Sterling 10.5 rear and Dana 60 front. My mechanic friend who did the swap said the ABS light came on during his test drive but the truck drove fine. I was of the understanding that the truck would not need to be recalibrated for proper speedometer and transmission function, but what about the ABS?
View 7 RepliesAfter a 7 year love affair with our 2005 6.0L Excursion, we bought another 6.0L today - a 2006 F250 Crew Cab. It came with front buckets/console, and the used car lot (all diesel trucks...) was nice enough to let us swap the seats out with another 2006 F250 Crew Cab on the lot that had the front captains' chairs with the center seat.
Their upholstery guy did the work with the captains' chairs, but for liability reasons they wouldn't bolt the jumpseat in, since the truck we bought didn't have the studs in place. So, they sent it home with us and we're faced with putting it in. No problem, right?
Well... we found the place for the bolts to go, and thought we were home free. BUT... (see photo) - what have we done wrong?? The first photo (driver's side bolt of center seat) is fine, but the passenger side bolt hole is too close to where the front passenger seat needs to bolt in.
I was wondering if this is possible, I have a 2008 F-250 6.4L and a 2003 F-350 both crewcab longbox, the 08' F250 has a ruined engine & great cab/box, my 03' F-350 is fine except it has substantial body damage - Is it possible with some welding & magic to get a 2008 cab onto a 2003 6.0L F-350?
View 4 RepliesI just picked up a 2005 SC LB 4x4 5.4 v8 6mt F-350 yesterday and drove it about 250 miles home. It is my first Super Duty, and I love it so far but... the steering has some issues. There seems to be decent amount of play in the steering wheel when I'm driving straight. Also, the truck drives straight when the steering wheel is turned about 30 degrees to the left, and I would like to fix that and bring it to center. When I was cruising on the highway (65-70 mph), there was also two 20 minute periods of time spaced an hour apart where the steering would get light and the truck would dart to the left (i do not think road conditions were a factor as it did not happen on the worst stretches of highway. The truck has 133,000 miles on it, and has had pretty routines maintenance done on it, as it was owned by a drilling business as a work truck to haul tools. The guy I bought it from said that it needed the steering shock/damper replaced, so I will do that, but what else to you think I need to do to the truck?
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