Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Driving Light Install In Front Bumper
Apr 12, 2013
I would like to install some driving lights behind the front bumper of my 2005 Super Duty, I was going to drill two 5" holes and than weld in some 5" pipe from the behind the bumper and attach some 5" KC driving lights to it. Would a hole saw work for this or is a bumper to thick? I was looking at DeWalt or Lenox hole saws their bi-metal. I know that I have to drill slow and I was going to use cutting fluid. I could use my drill press but I think I would have to figure how to clamp a bumper to the table. Then I am going to grind/sand the chrome off and paint it black. I will be taking the bumper off doing all of this.
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Any good way to install and mount a light bar without drilling into the front bumper or grill? I have a 32" LED bar I want to mount between the top of the bumper and bottom of the grill, but the mounts aren't ideal for where I want to put the light.
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I just ordered a set of Hella 4000x driving lights for my 2006 F-250. I have an aftermarket bumper on it, so the fog lights were taken out as there was no place to put them once the new bumper was installed. The question is, will I have any issues hooking the new driving lights up directly to the fog light system so I can just run them off the fog light switch instead of having to install the new switch on my dashboard? I know the new lights are 12V, but I couldn't find info as to whether the fog lights were running 12V as well.
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My f250 felt like it had a flat as in it was "swaying" while I was driving today. as I'm pulling into my neighborhood it felt as if i had a flat. There is fluid leaking from what looks like a control arm or possibly a canister that's part of a vacuum system. I'm a carpenter obviously by my terminology used in this post. Its dark so ill take another look in the morning but what I'm talking about..
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I bent my front bumper. Every time I look on amazon or ebay , when I put in my year, model, engine, it says their bumper won't fit. Mine has the 3 rectangular openings, 2 have the holes for mounting and tow hooks. It is chrome with the gray plastic or rubber bottom.Xlt. Also what part is the valance?
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I got a 2014 F250 SD w/ 6.7 diesel. Since if owned the truck the front bumper has slowly started to sag at both driver and passenger side. Dealer says there is no adjustments for it.
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Do a 2014 f350 front bumper will fit on a 2001 f350? Wanting to know if the bolt holes and body lines will match up? I put a 2014 rear bumper on and it bolted right up.
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i've done some searching but haven't found any how-to's or instructions on how to remove the front bumper on my 06 f250. Any link on how to do it?
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I want to install a new front drive shaft in my 2000 F350. I have the new one, and it has a big nut and it is threaded for length adjustment. My old one has a rubber boot which is missing from the new one. I plan on using red locktite but I do not know the torque specs on the front universal caps. Should I take it to my mechanic? I've never owned a 4x4 before.
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I have a 2010 f250 XL v10 6 speed 4wd. I was looking into adding factory fog lights to it. I have the factory plug by the headlight. I've read that some XL trucks just need the fog lights, wiring harness for the lights and the headlight switch with the fog light option.
So today my buddy (has an 09 f250 xlt with factory fog lights) and I decided to try his headlight switch in my truck to see if it would send power to the plug by the headlight. Plugged it in, turned the fog lights on and had no power. Actually the little fog light light on the switch didn't light up that I noticed either. So we compared wiring harnesses going to the headlight switch. Both trucks have 9 wires. #21 fuse in the kick panel is intact and good.
What else my truck would need in order to use the factory fog light parts? I know I could run new wiring and use an aftermarket switch but I'd rather it be factory.
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I'm installing a new amber light on my 2013 F250 signal cab and was wondering where most people run the wires into the cab. It has a magnetic mount and I didn't want to put a hole in the roof. I have a cap on the truck and I also don't have a sliding rear window. This will not be a temp. install. Putting the wires in through a hole in the 3rd brake light?
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I have a 2000 F250SD 4x4 that has developed a nasty front end noise. I originally thought it was a suspension issue (seems like bumps in the road cause the noise but not always, turning does not cause it) but everything seems good. Steering is tight and there is no 3 and 9 oclock movement. Ball joints also seem good with no 12 and 6 movement. I have jumped up and down of the front bumper and cant recreate the noise either, removed the sway bar and the noise is still there. The only strange thing I notice was that with the truck in 2wheeldrive and the hubs unlocked I can turn the front drive shaft and the drive's side axle spins but the passenger side only turns intermittently. I'm sure this isn't right so I'm looking for diagnosing the cause. Since none of these parts should be moving while driving in 2wheeldrive could this also be the cause of the noise?
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I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
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Is this repairable or would it be better to just replace it ? Ive never rebuilt one of these.
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I have an F250 4.2 diesel 4x4 double cab. Its a2005 model. I noticed an oil leak from the front left axle. It looks like its leaking from the axle tube. See pic attached. Is a seal probably worn? How big a job is this to fix.
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Do f150 bumper is the same as my 03 F250?
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On the 99-07 front bumper i would like to add driving lights in the bumper under the headlights something like the 11 up bumpers have...
Looking for a light and housing that possibly could be installed with out having to re chrome, so it could have a bezel to cover cut edge of bumper...
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2003 F350 4.4 5.4L auto. The front hub assemblies, seals, axle ujoints and upper/lower ball joint were all replaced. I bought all the parts gave them to the mechanic and told him if there's problems call me. I took a week off went to MS and he never called. I go to get truck he tells me, the bearings in the hubs are not spinning freely causing the axles to spin. I checked the hubs they are in the unlock position (Warn manual hubs). Originally auto hubs. Now i have the whole front diff spinning and the front drive shaft is spinning too. Clacking and clicking from the front wgen driving. Oh he said the front drive shaft ujoint was bad also. I paid $600 to have it all replaced and i get it back wrong. Is there something i need to check on the hubs that he maybe did wrong? Or is it possible i was sold the wrong hub assemblies?
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1999 F250 SD 4x4 7.3 PSD ... My truck has 198K miles on it. It pulls to the left as I drive it. So I took it to a shop to have the alignment checked. They told me that the front outer tie rod was bad and needed to be replaced. And of course they said they needed to put in a set of caster camber bushings to do the alignment. They quoted $400 to change the tie rod out. I said I would do that. They gave me the print out from the alignment but reading it the only thing that was out was the toe. Left tire was toe out and the right tire was toe in, which to me would cause it to pull to the left.
I got under the truck and the steering link, piece that goes from steering box to right side/tie rod, is not tight...I can move it up and down and it clunks when I roll it up. I have a clunking noise when I drive it and go over bumps also. Could this be the clunking noise? Also, if I replaced the ends of the steering link, that would tighten up but possibly push the steering back to the right some to straighten out the tires? I have read alot of threads talking about the clunking being tied to the sway bar bushings being bad but the clunking I get by rolling the steering link up and down sounds alot like the noise I am hearing.
Also, when looking at the axles where they go into the knuckle, there is a loose plastic ring on both sides. Is this part of the dust shield or an oil seal?
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I've just bought a new 2016 SD xlt. The only extra I wanted that is missing is the factory trailer brake controller. The dealer told me it had to be programmed. I was expecting plug and play and planned to do it myself till they told me that. Is this true?
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I want to install a set of upfitter switches but my truck didn't come with them...so I bought the switches and the relay/wire harness as well...I cannot find any good information on where to mount the relay and where an extra plug on that harness goes too. I have found the wires that attach and go through the firewall but I am not sure where the rest of this mess goes...my truck did not come with the wire harness already installed...
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