Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Alarm Going Off?
Oct 7, 2010
Just bought 2005 F350 XLT. Took it home last night and the alarm started going off at 2:30am for no reason. Stumbled looking for keys and it shut off by itself before I could(it sounded like it rearmed as well). At about 5:00am it went off again. We live in a rural area with not much around.
My understanding is that the XLT would be a Ford 'accessory' item. It does not seem to be too sensitive as I jumped on the back bumper to see if it would set it off but it did not.
The only thing I can think of is that last night, I had flicked all four of the Auxilary switched on the dash and forgot to switch them off. I popped the hood and none of those wires appear to be connected to anything.
I can't see why those switches would have anything to do with it but I am grasping at straws here.
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I came home from a week's vacation and towed my 16' toyhauler to and from the Sequoia Nat'l Park ... no issues during the entire trip. Guestimating about 5 hours after being home, everything was unpacked and the truck/trailer locked but still hitched ... suddenly the alarm went off ... all by itself! Using the ignition key, I was able to start/stop the 6.0l diesel motor, but the alarm kept going.
I pressed the lock/unlock buttons but still the alarm was going off! I repeated this a few times and concluded that only recourse was to disconnect the batteries. That stopped the alarm. While doing the disconnecting, I detected a faint electrical hot, maybe a burn kind of smell but no smoke of any kind.
I'm worrisome about reconnecting the batteries to see if the truck is back to normal ... I will probably just have it towed to a mechanic ... in any event it's going to go somewhere to be looked at this coming Monday.
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I have a new to me 05 F350 dually with 6.0. When I open the door with the key the alarm goes off and the truck won't start. How do I shut this off so I can get in the truck with the key. I can't just leave the door unlocked all the time. It has the key less entry, but I have not set new numbers yet, and if I give the keys to a valet, I don't want to give them the door code too.
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Just replaced my recently stolen tailgate. What are the dimensions for the King Ranch emblem location for a 2015?
Also, any way to tie the tailgate into the alarm system (similar to the way the hood is). I'm guessing that you could possibly tap into the wiring under the hood and add a switch/contact at the tailgate... Also, how would this interfere with engine immobilizer, etc?
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I bought a 2008 F250 crew cab, long box diesel and other than a couple of minor issues I love it. Tows my race trailer like it isn't even there.
If I use the remote to unlock the doors then everything works as it should, no alarm.
If I unlock the doors using the key pad the alarm sounds?
I have read thru many of the threads I can find but most are reprogramming the keypad. I am suspecting that a door open switch may be the culprit but wouldn't that affect the remote as well?
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2016 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab.. How do I turn off the back-up alarm when backing up with my boat and trailer?
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My truck was sitting in front of the house, unlocked and the alarm disarmed. For no apparent reason, the alarm on the truck went off. I tried pressing both arm and disarm button on the FOB and the alarm would not shut off. I opened the door, started the engine and the alarm immediately turned itself off. I need to look in the manual and see if there is any condition that would cause that particular event. Strange to say the least.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3l with an aftermarket alarm. I can't read what the third letter is on the decal MV? 2000 Modular Vehicle Security. I added a pic of the alarm decal below. The key fob it had was aftermarket for the alarm and stopped working about a year ago. Today I unlocked the drivers door with the key and the lights started flashing and I can hear a clicking sound. It done this a few times back when the key fob still worked and I just kept hitting lock and unlock until it finally stopped. It won't let me start the truck at all and I have tried unhooking the batteries with no luck.
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I am looking for a site that i can download a service manual with good wire diagrams. I want to install an alarm with remote start and need to know what wires go to what.
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Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
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My 05 superduty is in the shop because it won't shift in or out of 4Hi. Ford garage says I need a new transfer case shift motor, and 4wheel drive module. They said the shift motor was full of oil. I am not really up to speed on how the shift motor works, other than it bolts externally to the transfer case, that's why it confuses me about the shift motor being saturated with oil. My truck has never leaked even a drop of any type oil, ever.
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I am the first owner of a 2005 F250 SD with the V10 engine. After the engine is up to normal temperature, EVERY TIME I turn my steering wheel hard right or left it dies. It started doing this when it was less than a year old and had 10,000 miles on it. There is no Check Engine light, therefore, every time the Ford service people hook it to their reader there is no error code so, of course, they always tell me there is nothing they can do.
I use the truck to pull a fifth-wheel trailer but these days that usually means a yearly trip ten miles from the storage lot to our RV park site. The total vehicle mileage is 78,000. Less than 5000 of that has been pulling the trailer. It has never been used to haul heavy loads other than the fifth-wheel. I changed the fuel filter less than 2000 miles ago and nothing changed. I have done all of the routine maintenance myself so it has never been late for an oil change or any other routine service.
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2005 Ford F250 5.4 ... Having problems with ignition switch or bus bar in that circuit being bad?
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2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
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Ok back at this problem. When I say she won't fill... I mean I can't get more then $0.10 -$0.20 for gas in before the pump shuts off! I'v read all the tips and tricks of holding the gun upside down, tilting the gun up, changing different guns or gas stations, and even pulling the carbon canister filter blowing it out with compressed air... not one of them worked! Yes air passes through the canister but at a restrictive rate.
The only way I can get this truck to fill like every other car I'v filled is to unplug the vent line to carbon canister filter. Then I fill the F250 as fast as I want. Obviously the problem is in the carbon canister (plug up media or faulting canister solenoid) but what is the fix other then buying a new one?
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My '05 5.4 SD CCLB is running badly. 95k mikes. Plugs done 6 months ago. Acceleration is very sluggish. Sometimes uphill from a stop is almost impossible.
No CEL codes other than an intermittent coolant temp gauge that spikes but resets as soon as I shut down and restart.
When it is bogging the exhaust note changes - almost like there is a blockage. It is almost a booming sound. I would like to test to see if the cat is clogged. I have a vacuum gauge but need to find a vacuum source after the throttle body to do so. If I pull out the O2 sensors ( to allow the exhaust pressure to exit ) would the truck run badly because the O2 sensors were not functioning?
If it turns out that the converter is bad. Can I just eliminate the cats? I do not need emissions testing here in PA because the truck is so heavy. But I don't know if eliminating the cats will cause other problems.
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Just bought a used 2005 F250 with a 6.0 PSD.
It has electric door locks but I was only given a standard key.
Q1. Are there trucks without Remote Keyless Entry?
Q2. How do I tell if the keyless receiver is installed in the truck?
Q3. Is there a way to unlock all the locks with the key in the door?
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About a month after replacing the oil cooler and welding the egr cooler, I randomly got a "low oil pressure" message pop up on the dash. I checked my oil level when I got home and it was full so I assumed it was just the oil sending switch went bad. A couple days go by and I noticed a substantial puddle of oil under my truck so I popped the hood and the entire top passenger side of the engine was soaked in oil.
I assumed it was the inlet turbo oil gasket because the turbo pressure wouldn't go above half, but after replacing it the leak was still going strong. It turns out that all of that oil was spraying out of my intercooler boot at the front of the turbo. I ordered a new kit and replaced all the boots and pipes and got her running.
While driving around the block the turbo sounded like it was being smothered and wouldn't engage. 30 seconds later the truck went into limp mode. From what I've read it can be solved with a ccv mod but i don't think that will solve as much oil as I'm experiencing, however I could be wrong. Could this be a blown turbo seal or maybe the head gaskets?
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I have and 05 F350 4X4. I put it into 4 wheel drive high yesterday to make sure every thing was working correctly and it was so I went to 4 wheel low and that worked fine. Problem is it won't come out of 4 wheel low. I didn't try to go back to 2 wheel when I was in 4 high. What to look for? The truck has the electric switch to engage 4 wheel.
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Recently drove a 3500 mile road trip with no issues after installing a SCT X4 programmer from 5 star. Upon returning home the following week the ABS light came on and has not gone off. Additionally, last week the truck stalled while driving down the road at around 45 mph. Had something similar happen last summer, got the truck stuck and was trying to rock it in the mud and every time I shifted from reverse or forward the rpm's dropped to 500 and the truck could not respond to the gas pedal and the ABS light came on. Once I got out and washed all the mud from under it light went off and it ran fine without any warning lights.
Truck is an 05, V-10, 4x4, off road and tow package, lariat. No other mods besides the programmer.
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I have an '05 F350 single rear-axle w/109k miles. I only recently bought the truck for towing, and haven't had much time to play with it.
It seems that I get about 10-11 mpg on average - I was thinking this was a bit low - anything I can check?
I am normally a pretty quick driver, but, have been taking it easy to get a good read on the mileage, so, the right foot has been "very light".
The truck has a "tick", and I intend on following some of the guides for that, but how to improve the mileage
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