Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 - Air Hissing Sound On Passenger Side / Black Smoke Pouring From Tailpipe
Sep 9, 2017
2005 6.0l PSD. Driving flat road pulling 8K trailer. Not pushing it at all. Sudden air hissing sound on (seems like) passenger side of truck. Black smoke pouring from tailpipe. Check intercooler pipe and is ok. Can't see anything that is loose. Only 8 miles to the campground so limp down the road at 30 MPH which is all it will do. Hissing sound is remarkable predictable in that it is repetitive every 5 seconds or so. Lasts for maybe 2 seconds then stops the repeats.
There is no turbo boost either on the dash gauge or the Scan II gauge. Shutting the engine down, there is no turbo wind down. Scan II show no codes. Check everything I can reach and find nothing extraordinary. Tried starting a driving it today and had boost for a minute only then nothing. Blowing white smoke too. Check the oil and it is oil. Check the radiator fluid and it is oil free. Running low on fuel and wonder if I have a water in the fuel problem. However, don't think that should effect the non functioning turbo...
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I was towing a 16' Carmate Box trailer (empty), in tow/Haul mode, through the mountains on the PA turnpike. On an uphill section, 70 mph, suddenly blue smoke was pouring out of the back of the truck. I immediately slowed to about 50mph and pulled over at the next opportunity, about a mile. The bottom of the trans pan was coated with fluid, mostly on left side and the exhaust crossover pipe was smoking. Gauges were all normal. Ambient temp was 90F.
I drove another 40 miles, mostly about 60 mph. No problems. When I started climbing in elevation, and hit 70mph again, the smoke started again. I pulled over again and crawled under to fine the crossover pipe in flames. I grabbed a rag and beat out the flames. Fluid was red. Gauges were normal again. Once I disconnected the trailer, I can find no leaks. Snugged pan bolts. I cannot duplicated the problem without the load and speed.
Background: 2005 Crewcab, 5.4, 5R110 trans, 3.73. 416,000 miles, I have towed about 50K miles of that. Trans always ran great. Never replaced.
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2005 F250
123'xxx miles
EGR delete kit
This is my problem, the truck Idles then revs by itself and throws black smoke.If i leave it on it eventually seems like it floods and shuts off,when i first noticed this it had a loss of power and was having a hard time shifting gears, it would idle fine but when i would try and drive the truck it had no power. I changed the diesel filters and the air filter and the problem persists.
Could this be a bad turbo? Injector?
Here is the video of the problem.. F250 problem. - YouTube..
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2001 F250 5.4 with 160K miles. My wife "borrowed" my truck as she drove away, I saw white smoke coming out of the tailpipe. The kind you see in cold weather. Its was 75 degree in Texas this morning, so what could that be? There is antifreeze in the reservoir and I recently changed the oil and there was no water in it.
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I have a 2008 Ford 250 diesel that is pouring out white smoke from the exhaust when it goes into "cleaning filter" mode. I really don't understand this because I have a dpf delete with a sct tuner. I thought with the tuner and delete the truck wouldn't go into filter cleaning mode. I contacted Ford and they said it was normal for white smoke to come from the exhaust during this process. What's going on maybe tuner is bad?
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I have an 04 F250, stock. Two times within the last week I have noticed whiteish smoke coming out of the tailpipe and a diesel smell. Could this be the glow plugs going out and not burning the fuel, I have not changed them since owning the truck or something else.
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I'm looking to buy a 08 f250. It has 70k miles on it. The guy is running a mini max tuner on it. I did notice on a cold start as soon as he hit the acceleration it had alot of black smoke. Is this normal? And is there anything I should b aware of when looking this truck over.
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I have a serious issue with my 2004 F250 6.0. Pulling a trailer something under the hood sounded like an explosion and lost power and boost. The truck started blowing black smoke from the tail pipe. I could see no psychical damage to anything under the hood. There was absolutely no power but managed to cripple home. What happen.
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I have just replaced the EGR cooler, Oil Cooler, professional turbo reconditioning, both dummy plug's and stand-pipe's, blue spring, fuel filters, oil changed, cleaned the EGR valve and intake manifold. I am in the process of doing a coolant flush when my issue occurred. I was on the road for about 10 minutes when I lost power and started blowing black smoke. I have normal power till about 45 mph then nothing. I can baby the truck up to 55-60 and then nothing and the whole time blowing black smoke.
I stomp on the pedal with no power. I hear the whine of the turbo. The truck idles and sounds fine. My SCT showed my oil and coolant temps within 15 degrees. I opened the hood and saw soot all over the top of the engine from the compressor to the EGR valve and all in the valley from valve cover to valve cover; but more so on the driver side to FICM. I obviously didn't connect something properly. I am just about to remove the intake manifold and reinstall, but before I do just wanted some input.
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I have a 06 6.0 Powerstroke 6 Speed every time I get on it or even try to get going I have no power and I have pure black smoke blowing out the exhaust somebody told me to change the fuel filters which I did which they were pretty nasty then after I did that I seem to still have the same problem so then they told me to check the EGR valve put injector cleaner in it to clean the injectors which I have not done a gr or injector cleaner yet just wanted to know, what it could be or what I can do to prevent the black smoke I have no power either...
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My 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
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My mechanic cannot figure it out nor can a Ford mechanic. About every one to two weeks, only in the morning, after I drive about a half mile it starts running rough and stalls at idle. It behaves like it is flooding out. When I can get it started black smoke pours out until it clears. I can hold it above 2000 rpm but, as I lower the revs, it starts stalling again until it stops. I've tried blowing it out on a long stretch but at normal speed it does it again. After repeating this several times it suddenly runs right and won't happen again for a couple weeks, the longest being four weeks. I thought it might be the remote start but that theory was busted. I've searched here and in other sites and replaced the IAC but it still did it. Replacing the O2 sensors did not work. I don't want to keep throwing parts at it.
'03 F250 FX4, 5.4 gas....
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I have a 99 350 sd 7.3 low power black smoke sets a p1211 under heavy throttle. Check icp on scanner under heavy throttle falls from 1900s to mid 1700s ipr duty cycle runs about 62% wanting to know if I am looking for a hpop problem or injector issue...
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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I used the a/c for the first time this year on my 2013 F250 and heard some noises I don't remember hearing before. When the a/c(or defrost) is on every 12 sec or so I hear a hissing sound that lasts for a couple of seconds then goes away. Is this the compressor cycling and if so is it normal to hear it inside the cab?
I know it has to do with the a/c because if I shut it off as the hissing sound is being made the sound will instantly stop. Other than the noise the a/c works fine and blows cold air. Also, if it matters I have the standard control panel, not climate control.
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I just bought a 2002 v10 crew cab, everything great form the first 3 months, but then my coolant sensor stopped working, changed it, and the same thing! Only works a couple of times, and the truck started to rough idle a little, and now I have black smoke coming out of the exhaust!
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I have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
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Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
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Have a Whistling or hissing sound while accelerating? My 2015 6.2 seems to make this sound while under load. I took to dealer and they claim its the throttle plates not closing all the way. Claims this is normal, but to me it is annoying. Just would like to know what others think.
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I have a 05 f250 6.0 that currently will not start and no smoke. Replaced batteries and tested ficm. At initial injector buzz voltage drops to 18.8 then jumps back to 48.8 and drops again to 18.8 while cranking. My question is if the voltage is this low does the pcb still just need a resolder or are there components that will need to be replaced?
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