Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 6.0 - Oil In Intercooler Pipes
Jul 29, 2017
About a month after replacing the oil cooler and welding the egr cooler, I randomly got a "low oil pressure" message pop up on the dash. I checked my oil level when I got home and it was full so I assumed it was just the oil sending switch went bad. A couple days go by and I noticed a substantial puddle of oil under my truck so I popped the hood and the entire top passenger side of the engine was soaked in oil.
I assumed it was the inlet turbo oil gasket because the turbo pressure wouldn't go above half, but after replacing it the leak was still going strong. It turns out that all of that oil was spraying out of my intercooler boot at the front of the turbo. I ordered a new kit and replaced all the boots and pipes and got her running.
While driving around the block the turbo sounded like it was being smothered and wouldn't engage. 30 seconds later the truck went into limp mode. From what I've read it can be solved with a ccv mod but i don't think that will solve as much oil as I'm experiencing, however I could be wrong. Could this be a blown turbo seal or maybe the head gaskets?
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Just bought 2005 F350 XLT. Took it home last night and the alarm started going off at 2:30am for no reason. Stumbled looking for keys and it shut off by itself before I could(it sounded like it rearmed as well). At about 5:00am it went off again. We live in a rural area with not much around.
My understanding is that the XLT would be a Ford 'accessory' item. It does not seem to be too sensitive as I jumped on the back bumper to see if it would set it off but it did not.
The only thing I can think of is that last night, I had flicked all four of the Auxilary switched on the dash and forgot to switch them off. I popped the hood and none of those wires appear to be connected to anything.
I can't see why those switches would have anything to do with it but I am grasping at straws here.
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My 05 superduty is in the shop because it won't shift in or out of 4Hi. Ford garage says I need a new transfer case shift motor, and 4wheel drive module. They said the shift motor was full of oil. I am not really up to speed on how the shift motor works, other than it bolts externally to the transfer case, that's why it confuses me about the shift motor being saturated with oil. My truck has never leaked even a drop of any type oil, ever.
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I am the first owner of a 2005 F250 SD with the V10 engine. After the engine is up to normal temperature, EVERY TIME I turn my steering wheel hard right or left it dies. It started doing this when it was less than a year old and had 10,000 miles on it. There is no Check Engine light, therefore, every time the Ford service people hook it to their reader there is no error code so, of course, they always tell me there is nothing they can do.
I use the truck to pull a fifth-wheel trailer but these days that usually means a yearly trip ten miles from the storage lot to our RV park site. The total vehicle mileage is 78,000. Less than 5000 of that has been pulling the trailer. It has never been used to haul heavy loads other than the fifth-wheel. I changed the fuel filter less than 2000 miles ago and nothing changed. I have done all of the routine maintenance myself so it has never been late for an oil change or any other routine service.
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2005 Ford F250 5.4 ... Having problems with ignition switch or bus bar in that circuit being bad?
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2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
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Ok back at this problem. When I say she won't fill... I mean I can't get more then $0.10 -$0.20 for gas in before the pump shuts off! I'v read all the tips and tricks of holding the gun upside down, tilting the gun up, changing different guns or gas stations, and even pulling the carbon canister filter blowing it out with compressed air... not one of them worked! Yes air passes through the canister but at a restrictive rate.
The only way I can get this truck to fill like every other car I'v filled is to unplug the vent line to carbon canister filter. Then I fill the F250 as fast as I want. Obviously the problem is in the carbon canister (plug up media or faulting canister solenoid) but what is the fix other then buying a new one?
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My '05 5.4 SD CCLB is running badly. 95k mikes. Plugs done 6 months ago. Acceleration is very sluggish. Sometimes uphill from a stop is almost impossible.
No CEL codes other than an intermittent coolant temp gauge that spikes but resets as soon as I shut down and restart.
When it is bogging the exhaust note changes - almost like there is a blockage. It is almost a booming sound. I would like to test to see if the cat is clogged. I have a vacuum gauge but need to find a vacuum source after the throttle body to do so. If I pull out the O2 sensors ( to allow the exhaust pressure to exit ) would the truck run badly because the O2 sensors were not functioning?
If it turns out that the converter is bad. Can I just eliminate the cats? I do not need emissions testing here in PA because the truck is so heavy. But I don't know if eliminating the cats will cause other problems.
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Just bought a used 2005 F250 with a 6.0 PSD.
It has electric door locks but I was only given a standard key.
Q1. Are there trucks without Remote Keyless Entry?
Q2. How do I tell if the keyless receiver is installed in the truck?
Q3. Is there a way to unlock all the locks with the key in the door?
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I have and 05 F350 4X4. I put it into 4 wheel drive high yesterday to make sure every thing was working correctly and it was so I went to 4 wheel low and that worked fine. Problem is it won't come out of 4 wheel low. I didn't try to go back to 2 wheel when I was in 4 high. What to look for? The truck has the electric switch to engage 4 wheel.
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Recently drove a 3500 mile road trip with no issues after installing a SCT X4 programmer from 5 star. Upon returning home the following week the ABS light came on and has not gone off. Additionally, last week the truck stalled while driving down the road at around 45 mph. Had something similar happen last summer, got the truck stuck and was trying to rock it in the mud and every time I shifted from reverse or forward the rpm's dropped to 500 and the truck could not respond to the gas pedal and the ABS light came on. Once I got out and washed all the mud from under it light went off and it ran fine without any warning lights.
Truck is an 05, V-10, 4x4, off road and tow package, lariat. No other mods besides the programmer.
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I have an '05 F350 single rear-axle w/109k miles. I only recently bought the truck for towing, and haven't had much time to play with it.
It seems that I get about 10-11 mpg on average - I was thinking this was a bit low - anything I can check?
I am normally a pretty quick driver, but, have been taking it easy to get a good read on the mileage, so, the right foot has been "very light".
The truck has a "tick", and I intend on following some of the guides for that, but how to improve the mileage
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I have a 2005 Ford F-350 service truck,,it has a 5.4L 3V gas engine and has 159869 miles on it. No codes!! Truck starts,,idle races up to 900-1000 rpms and begins to drop to 5-600,,it will just bog or CHAAAAWWWWW if you touch the throttle,,let off and it will most times stall. It is unable to move the truck,,,,start it up and for a slit second it acts as it will rev up but fails and just goes CHAAAAAWWWWW out the intake. I just dont know where to turn on this deal,,Richie 1-774-406-7289 or [email protected].
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F-250 2005 XLT 5.4L 4X4. Had ford for a few years now (Escape as a personal vehicle and econoline as business vehicle). Now I'm having a little problem with 4x4. It wont engage. Worked fine last week and now nothing! I did check all the fuses and when i switch to either 4Lo or 4Hi I can hear a clicking sound behind the switch but feel like it's getting blocked or something. Tries a few time then stop...
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My engine light came on a friend of mine did a scan and came up with o2s12 showing low voltage.we need to know which side and location of sensor..the truck is a 2005 ford f250 super duty 5.4l.
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I have had the ABS light on for about a year now. I looked thru the forums and found that the typical reason if a faulty rear VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I found a replacement part online and got it ordered and replaced the original part. Simple 5 minute fix, but it didn't fix it!
Now when I get in and start the truck the ABS light is off, but after I drive off about 20 yards the light comes back on and stays on.
The other day someone stepped out in front of me at a cross walk and I hit the brakes pretty hard and although the truck stopped in time, the rear wheels locked up, so I'm thinking the issue is at the rear.
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does it take a special tool to remove pcv valve from 2005 e-450 v-10
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I came home from a week's vacation and towed my 16' toyhauler to and from the Sequoia Nat'l Park ... no issues during the entire trip. Guestimating about 5 hours after being home, everything was unpacked and the truck/trailer locked but still hitched ... suddenly the alarm went off ... all by itself! Using the ignition key, I was able to start/stop the 6.0l diesel motor, but the alarm kept going.
I pressed the lock/unlock buttons but still the alarm was going off! I repeated this a few times and concluded that only recourse was to disconnect the batteries. That stopped the alarm. While doing the disconnecting, I detected a faint electrical hot, maybe a burn kind of smell but no smoke of any kind.
I'm worrisome about reconnecting the batteries to see if the truck is back to normal ... I will probably just have it towed to a mechanic ... in any event it's going to go somewhere to be looked at this coming Monday.
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Just had my 2005 F250 a few weeks and the 'check air filter' warning came on
Checked the filter, it looks fine, hasn't come off...it's the cylindrical one.
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My reverse sensors have stopped working. As soon as you put in reverse, the on off button will light up and be telling you that it is off. What is going on and how do I correct this?
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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