I have 2004 Super Duty with a noise in the front end when I hit bumps or backing out or entering a driveway with a lip. I don't feel anything in the steering wheel but I feel it on the floor board with my feet? Where to begin?
View 3 RepliesMy 2013 f350 long bed diesel pickup has a noise in the front end when going over a bump such as a curb at low speed. It will also occur if turning onto a side street that is at a downhill grade. The vehicle has 4000 miles and is just at one year old. The noise sounds like a shock housing scraping on the shock or a very dry and rusty bushing. It also sounds similar to the anti-lock pulsing. I have had it to the dealer twice and they can not find a problem. The noise is very loud and easy to hear. I have gotten under the truck and looked around to see if I can find any evidence of rust and do not. Sometimes if I have my foot on the brake pedal when the noise happens I feel the anti-lock pulsing.
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 f250 7.3 has pretty sloppy steering and noise in the front end when going over bumps. I have replace the drop links, swap bar bushings, both wheel hubs including new seals and the drag link. The rest of the front end seems to be in good shape. I put it up on jack stands and there is some movement in the front end but it seems to all be in the steering box.
Steering box appears to be original with 220k miles. I went to tighten it and it appears the PO did it at least once already. Is it safe to try tightening it again? Does tightening it increase the risk of failure? I'd like to try tightening it first but not at the risk of losing steering at 65mph with my kids in the truck.
I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
View 1 Replies2002 F-250 7.3 4x4 ...
I have a rattling noise coming from the front suspension (both sides) when going over small bumps. Most people point to ball joints, but I find my case odd because I just replaced
Upper/Lower ball joints
Track bar
Tie rod ends
Shocks
Front U joints
Drag link
I did not touch the leaf springs or the sway bar, except to grease the links, which otherwise looked good.
I've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
I've had my f350 7.3 for about 5 years now, she's my work truck so I plow and do a lot of towing. Had moog upper and lower ball joints done about 4 years ago seeing I dident know much about trucks then. As I learned more I started doing stuff myself, did sway bar links cause I was getting a bad clunk going over certain bumps and it totally fixed it. Just replaced tie rod ends and shocks but I'm still getting this clunking it seems when the truck rocks side to side, when I leave my driveway apron every morning I can hear it. I did a balljoint check a few times moving the tire up and down to check for play but everything seemed tight, not sure if it could be bushings or what I'm stumped
View 4 RepliesI was going to put new ball joints in but wimped out and had my mechanic do them. I'm too old to be doing that kind of crap. I just replaced the fuel pump with the correct one. That's enough under truck time for a while. 91,000 miles on the originals, stopped the rumble / rattle when I hit bumps in the front end. Getting the alignment Tuesday. Guess I got my money's worth out of them. Still has original brake pads too. Thinking of doing an upgrade to the brakes, drilled and slotted, I tow an RV and need it to protect the idiots that pull out in front of me. 2001, V10, CC ......
View 8 RepliesSo on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
View 14 Replies Long time reader and first time poster, first off the truck:
1999 F-250 super duty
130,000 miles
not lifted
stock minus warn premium manual hubs ... v-10
For the past couple of years now I have had a strange grinding noise which is coming from the front end of my truck, it sounds an awful lot like if i was driving over one of the strips on the road that is made to warn drivers they are veering off the road. It first happened a couple of years ago and I took it into les schwab to have them check everything out, of course it never made the noise for them while test driving and after a visual inspection of the front end no conclusion could be made.
After about a month it completely stopped making the noise when going over bumps and i thought that "hey maybe it fixed itself!" well it did not, about 6 months after no strange noises at all it started to happen again, and once again it stopped. Now after about 8 months of it not happening it recently started again and i am determined to figure the problem out this time, it doesnt seem to be any worse of a noise or vibration but is the same as when it first started about 2 years ago. It stops when the vehicle stops, or when i switch it into 4 wheel high on the dash.
After taking it to les shwab again a few days ago they found no problems in the front end, no wheel play or noises when making tight turns (possible signs of bad wheel bearings?) and overall everything checked out well and said that the hubs do eventually need to be replaced in these. 2 days later I took it to 4 wheel parts for an inspection, after all of 10 minutes of driving they assured me that i needed new hubs and that was the cause of the problem, after installing the new hubs (warn premium manual hubs) the problem seemed to be fixed.... 3 hours of driving after the istall and no problems! Until today when I ran over a sewer drain and sure enough the grinding came back, flipped it into 4wd with a quick flip of the switch and no more noise.
I found a few similar on this board before but with no definitive solutions..... Possibilities that I have heard of that would cause this:
-- spindle bearings
-- wheel bearings
-- auto hub hydraulics
-- stock hubs (replaced)
Again this truck is all stock minus the new hubs, taking it into shops has proven to be a giant hassle because it never seems to make the grinding noise while they drive it so they check for wheel play and tell me everything seems fine.
Like a lot of our trucks, mine had the tap-tap-tap cab noise while going over bumps. It always sounded like it was coming from the passenger side doors. I have read many solutions, but have never been able to solve my noise issue. But, I may have found it....or more truthfully, my wife.
The other weekend we were out running errands. As she climbed into the cab and shut the door she commented that the handle above the passenger door was getting real loose. She wiggled it to demonstrate.
Tap-tap-tap.
Same noise....... ....I'll be dipped.
Got home, grabbed a socket wrench and tightened the 2 screws. They were like 3 turns loose.
Noise seems to be gone. Time will tell, but if you have"that noise" check the upper passenger grab handle.
In the last few hundred miles of driving, I notice there is a strange noise coming from what appears to be the front end of my truck. It sounds similar to a buzzsaw or a power sanding tool whenever it comes in contact with an object. The noise starts at around 30 mph, stops from 55-60mph, and starts again around 65 mph. The truck rides and drives normally and there doesn't seem to be any metal to metal contact noises or clunking and the hubs dont seem to be hot to the touch. I was thinking improperly balanced tires, wheel bearing, or front carrier assembly. What it could be? The noise just suddenly started and I was wondering if I should keep driving it?
View 7 RepliesAll the body bushings have dry rotted away on my 08 Superduty. Are these hard to replace?
I am starting to hear and feel more road noise and rattling when going over bumps or a rough road. U think they would have used polyurethane bushings instead of rubber.
When I go over good size bumps, I hear a clunk in the front tire area when my driver's window is down. It's a metal noise, like something loose.
2011 F-250 with 203K miles. Replaced shocks last year. Did this with stock wheels/tires. Something in the front suspension or axles. What should I be looking at?
2004 5.4L F-250 ... it's a one owner truck I bought brand new in 2003 and only has 50,000 miles on it.
I have the 2V 5.4 engine no tuner or chip. 4x4 with 4" lift and 35's and I changed the rear to 4.88's. I love the truck but my problem is when I hit a large bump or drive too fast on a dirt road the fuse#23 that controls the PCM will blow. Consistently. I have to keep a box of 20 amp fuses handy. I have a 2 post lift in my shop and have scoured over every wire that is connected to the fuse. The EVAP solenoid, AC Clutch, Transmission solenoids and the O2 sensors. I only have 2 sensors I could find one on each side of the headers.
I couldn't find any rubbing wires or exposed wires. I am at a loss. It only happens when I hit a large bump. Could it be the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid?
My brother in law is a mechanic and he brought over the diagnostic computer and when it blew while hooked up he seemed to think it was the TCC solenoid because when it engages the chart shows it angling up but when it disengages it drops off straight like it should. My truck seems to run fine when the fuse isn't blown, but when it blows it goes into a limp mode with the tranny stuck in 3rd or 4th gear and I have to drive it home in 1st.
I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
I have a 2000 F250 2wd 6spd with a loud banging noise that has been vexing me for quite sometime now. The bang happens when I go over bumps (even small ones like road reflectors) while driving. I don't think it is suspension related since all the ball joints, front/rear swaybar and endlink bushings have been replaced fairly recently. All the springs and bushings also look okay.
The noise seems to come from the rear, and I notice that if I let off the gas when I go over a bump, it does not make a sound. Conversely, if I am accelerating aggressively and hit a bump, the sound is much louder. Also, if I step on the clutch while keeping my foot steady on the gas, it makes a bang. Jumping up and down in the bed while the truck is parked does not recreate the sound. I have already greased the driveshaft spline joint so I'm thinking the sound might be differential or transmission related. What it could be?
What this clunk could be?? in my truck in signature, 2003 F350 CCLB 4x4, 4" lift. its only low speed, on very light bumps. really does it when the truck flexes, like turning into an elevated driveway or something. driving me absolutely insane the last few months. it sounds like its coming from right under my feet
-removed front shocks and drove
-removed front sway bar and drove
-front wheel bearings are new and tight
-front leaf spring, rear upper shackle bushings are new (thought that was problem..no)
-front leaf springs and bushings are new, although i suppose its possible to have a bad bushing already
-removed traction bars and drove
-removed front track bar and drove, but going to try this again.
-all cab mounts look ok
-took out cab mount under drivers foot, and cut down the metal piece a little...read about it on another thread on here. no change
-made sure my gooseneck ball couldn't rattle
-steering box is new...thought that was it
-steering shaft is solid
-transmission mount bushing and crossmember feel tight
-lubed front driveshaft slip joint and it doesn't have any u joint play
-rear shocks seem ok but haven't removed them yet
-fuel tank is solid
-rear driveshaft has new carrier bearing and u joints, all is tight
-exhaust is not hitting anything
-u bolts all tight, spring bolts are tight
As you can see, I've been through damn near everything. my only thoughts right now is a possible bad cab bushing, or bad leaf spring bushing...as it sounds like its right under my feet. and when you flex the truck, it makes all sort of popping and clunking noises. i had the truck on my buddies lift and we went under it for an hour yesterday looking around with no luck. only thing i found was a bad traction bar bushing but we removed them and it still does it..
Most noticeable at the end of the video...it sounds exactly like a bad sway bar bushing but that's not it...
Front end clunk - YouTube ....
So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
2004 F-250 FX4 SB 5.4 V8 140k
Issue: rattling/clicking noise from passenger front wheel area at speeds lower than 15MPH, made worse under light braking and/or turns to the right.
Clicking sound is speed dependant.
Spindle? Hub? Balljoint? Sway joint? Rotor Issue?
2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.