Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Very Minor Oil Seepage Leak On The Lower End
Aug 10, 2017
I have an '04 Super Duty 6.0 and am just a couple hundred miles shy of 200K. The truck seems to be running great and I want to keep it that way. I'd rather invest in some upgrades and longevity than go into debt for a newer truck. What I can upgrade/do to keep this thing going for another 200K? I have replaced all of the injectors, the FICM, turbo, and the EGR valve through attrition. I also have a "very minor oil seepage leak on the lower end" of my engine. I'm not anywhere near mechanically inclined with vehicles, so almost any work that needs to be done will be through a local shop. I keep reading about "bullet proofing" the engine and have found very mixed reviews ranging from "YOU MUST DO THIS" to "it isn't necessary" or "bulletproof products are crap made in China".
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03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
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I have a 2003 F450 PSD which won't start cold. I leave it plugged in overnight and it won't start in the morning without starting fluid. I spray a little while cranking and it turns right over. It runs really rough for a few minutes but as it gets hotter it settles down and runs like it's brand new.
Once at operating temp it will start up again no problem. I changed the GPs, the GPR, the valve cover gaskets and GP harnesses, 2 brand new batteries, oil change, fuel filter, air filter. I can't imagine what the problem can be.
I know the icp sensor is bad, I checked it and it has oil in it, but it still won't start unplugged so that isn't the main problem. I noticed it has a minor oil leak, not sure of where it's coming from, but it seems to leak when the truck settles.
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My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
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I'm trying to troubleshoot a leak on my 08' F250 with a 6.4 powerstroke. It's been dripping coolant when cold pretty aggressively. Once the truck heats up, the coolant leak seems to mostly go away.
Here's a picture of the drip, it's marked by a dart, so you can see the location from the top (second pic). The radiator house connection around the engine seems dry.
Pic from Top ....
What's hidden here that could be causing the leak?
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grapplers
Truck started bucking and stalling when warm and over 60mph. No codes.
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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Put new backing plates, parking brake shoes, springs, etc on my 2004 F350 DRW 4x4. Replaced the inner hub seals and axle o-ring. Filled with Ford Rear end lube and went for a test drive. All was well. Went out last night to take her out again and I've got diff lube running out of both sides on the inside of the rims. Did Ford sell me the wrong seals? Could I have installed the seals wrong? Ford seal part number is 4C3Z1S177A. Axle is a Dana 80, confirmed by reading the tag on the diff.
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I need to do both lower ball joints. is there a write up or process to do it? do I have to remove the whole hub assembly/knuckle thing or can I do it with all that stuff in place?
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I have replaced my ball joints and now putting everything back together. I am having trouble tightening the nut on the lower ball joint, the joint turns with the nut as soon as it starts to get tight.
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This is an early 99 f250 powerstroke 6spd manual 4wd, is it common or normal to hear a lot of transmission rattle at low rpm especially in lower gears under a load. Starting off from a dead stop it sounds awful until about 1500 rpm where it clears up (or load is reduced). I'm hoping it's just the power pulses going through splined shafts, gears, etc.
210k on the truck, just changed every fluid in it.
I've been a honda owner and mechanic for all of my driving years where shifting at 8500 rpm is common and now I'm having a hard time learning what this thing likes, rpm ranges to avoid, ect; even shifting I find difficult. At least you can heel toe with the pedal arrangement...
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1999 F250 7.3 240k miles .... This is the second truck to act like this on me after I cleaned the in tank filters.
I had to cut the fpr spring to 30lbs for the truck to start fine cold and idle ok but has no power. When hot it wants to die and or dies at idle and has next to no power. ( I'm guessing from lack of fuel) but it's the only way for me to use it. With a new spring and 60ish lbs of fuel pressure, they won't even start.
I cleaned the in tank filters. New fuel filter. new oil. rebuilt the ipr. unplugged the ipc. no loss of boost. checked my uvch, wiggled all harnesses with no difference. I also tried dropping the tank again in case I pinched the return line but that made no difference.
I'm guessing that I need new injectors. I'm not close to anyone with a computer nor can I afford to throw away any more money at the moment.
Totally stumped and cannot seem to find a definitive answer online so far. Both trucks ran somewhat ok before and got worst once I dropped the tank and cleaned the filters which increased the fuel pressure. This is my second truck to act this way.
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What is the part # for this bottom for an 05' F250 supercab?
I swapped these seats into my OBS truck, but the driver's seat bottom has the typical wear/tear on it and its getting worse.
I have been searching for three days for a replacement bottom cover. I have found them for F150s and the pattern is close but not right. I cannot find them for F250s or F350s as I cannot find the proper part # for the gray DS cover.
This is the tan one: 4c3z-2562900-eaa
How can I pull this up?
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I have a new 2013 f 250 gaser the truck I noticed sits crooked it is lower on drivers side by almost 2 inches and not from the fuel tank.
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OK, I never heard of any "key" to lower the spare tire. However, the nice people at Discount tire weren't able to swap my tire because I'm missing some "key". How do I get a key for this and ELIMINATE the need for the key? 2000 F250 Crew Cab 4x4.
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I bought my first vehicle last October, a '99 F-250 with a 6.8 V10. I later found out (AFTER hauling a big load of rocks in a dump trailer) that one of the bottom leaf springs was broken. So this winter I have been thinking on what I want to do about it when it warms up. This is pretty much on top of the "to do" list for my truck. I did make a thread about putting 1 ton springs under it, but I think I'll just stick with the regular 3/4 ton springs. So now this is where I have another question, and I think this pic will tell some of it:
Now I'm not sure if those rear springs are stock, but that rear end is way the heck up there! The truck itself is not level, the front looks to be correct height, but not the back. A buddy at school and I were talking about a leveling kit for the front. But the more I look at it, I think the rear end should come down. I don't want to get bigger tires, as I just put brand new Transforce AT's on the back and plan to put new ones on the front in the near future.
Another question of mine is, would this have been a truck ordered just for pulling a camper? It has holes for a fifth wheel hitch in the bed, the rear end sits high, and it didn't come with a tow package. The PO told me that he put the receiver hitch on it. I'm fixing up stuff on it one thing at a time. Springs just happen to be next on the list.
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Bought a new truck and had the dealer put a leveling kit (readylift 2.5" kit) on it with bigger tires. The rear now sits lower than the front. Any way to fix this? I want the truck to sit level as much as possible loaded and unloaded. New 2016 F350 KR
I added a pic ....
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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Ok. I wanted to pick the minds to make it easier. In the photos the lower steering linkage is loose (bottom bar with ring on the end connected to knuckle) and needs replacement. To fix this is it just a bushing inside? Is it unscrewing the end like replacing a tie rod?
2008 F350 CC DRW
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Experienced rumble type noise, like if you drive over those highway rumble things on the edge of the road. It happens at low speeds like 30 mph or lower and more prominent when you come to a stop. It came on all of a sudden . Replaced new tie rods, dampener and stabilizer bar links and still have it. Tires wear great and thought the hub's were still turned in as it sounded the front differential drive line was going around. This is on a 2002 F250 crew cab.
The complete tie rod kit that connects to the the pitman arm isn't cheap, it did need replaced as there was a lot of play in it but damn, when on a set income and it still have same problem , very upsetting. On social security disability and I told them that I can't keep spending money on parts that they told me were bad and it didn't work. Everything is tight on the wheel according to the tire shop , it takes me a while to get underneath and I can't find anything .
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