Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 V10 - Misfire On Cylinder 2 - No Compression
Nov 4, 2014
I bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
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I have no compression on #4 cylinder. Is there any way to check the cylinder for damage. So I can just replace that piston if it's good?
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2006 F53 (motorhome) with 6.8L V10. Rcently noticed rough idle and midrange (under load) mis fire. Had codes on 2 coils. Replaced coils and put new spark plugs in. Did not improve and now detecting mild back fire.
Just completed compression test. 1=207psi, 2=200, 3=210, 4=190, 5=197, 6=200, 7=200, 8=170, 9=202, 10=208.
put some oil in #8 and retested at 225!
Other observations on #8. Engine has ticking noise chased with stethoscope to #8. THE new plug with 200miles, insulator going to electrode tip and everything inside combustion chamber is black. All 9 other plugs still look new out of box.
With the ticking noise I was suspecting valve but the compression test with oil jumped way up.
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2006 F53 (motorhome) with 6.8L V10. Rcently noticed rough idle and midrange (under load) mis fire. Had codes on 2 coils. Replaced coils and put new spark plugs in. Did not improve and now detecting mild back fire.
Just completed compression test. 1=207psi, 2=200, 3=210, 4=190, 5=197, 6=200, 7=200, 8=170, 9=202, 10=208.
put some oil in #8 and retested at 225!
Other observations on #8. Engine has ticking noise chased with stethoscope to #8. THE new plug with 200miles, insulator going to electrode tip and everything inside combustion chamber is black. All 9 other plugs still look new out of box.
With the ticking noise I was suspecting valve but the compression test with oil jumped way up.
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4 L with an intermittent Misfire. A little history on the truck in 2011 I replaced the motor with a Ford long block motor, only the block, I used my electronics, intake, etc, this was brand new from Ford. The truck has a total of over 300K miles. Recently it has developed an intermittent misfire. I have changed all the coils and plugs and the misfire is still present. The codes are showing a misfire in cylinder 3 but could be 4 too. The misfire is intermittent because this morning I changed the plugs and truck ran fine, drove to store and it started missing, turned truck off and started up and ran fine again. It has been doing this off and on for a few weeks.
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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my 03 f250 has a 5.4 and i cant seem to get rid of a misfire in cylinder 3. i had a p0353 code but that no longer shows up. i replaced all the coils with Accel coils, replaced the plugs with motorcraft platinum. i have checked the wire all the way back to the PCM and it checks out. i replaced the pcm with one that has been reprogrammed. i have swapped the injector and coil with another position and still get misfire at #3. Replaced the coil connector with a new one. I have good fuel pressure. I no longer get the code but the misfire is still there, unplug the coil and injector while running and no change. Unplug a different cylinder and you can tell the change. I checked compression and its good. I am lost here!!!!
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My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
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I have a 99 ford super duty with a 5.4 triton that is having a troublesome misfire. When you first fire it up it has a bit of a stutter then runs relatively smooth but the engine does still have a small shake to it and you can hear a bit of a choppy sound in the exhaust. Not completely smooth. When you drive it light footed it seems to run perfectly smooth and nice. But if you go past half throttle (sometimes you can go past that point) it starts to cough and is very slow at picking up.
When you reach between 3,250 and 4,500rpm the coughing stops. But the pick up is a little surgy, not steady. It was doing this for a while before the engine light came on. I got it scanned and it showed a miss fire on cylinder two so I have replaced the spark plug, coil, and injector but still the same issue. I opened up the catalytic converter to see if it was plugged up. Nothing there.
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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Truck Specs:
2008 f250 super duty 5.4l
78xxx miles
4x4
Automatic
Issue:
P0300 (random misfire detected)
P0307 (cylinder 7 misfire)
Let's start from the beginning...
I was getting the notorious 5.4l ticking sound. After doing research on this issue. I found that it could be a few different issues including:
Cam Phasers
VCT solenoid(s)
Loud injectors
Valves
Exhaust leak
Loose spark plug
The list could possibly go on, but these being top concerns or issues to look into.
I took it to my mechanic and wanted him to research the ticking problem. This was my primary concern due to it was getting worse over time. I didn't want to do more damage than what was possibly already done. I told him to go ahead and change the spark plugs while you're checking into what's going on. (I know those plugs can break and I didn't want to do that.)
At any rate... the plugs got changed to motocraft brand (I know the trucks can be finicky with the parts you put back into them so I went with the motocrafts to avoid any complications.) After the plugs were changed, he told me that the ticking was caused from a blown exhaust manifold gasket (yay me... not internal parts or anything too serious. Sweet!)
I had to reschedule to get the gasket done, but knowing what it was now I wasn't too concerned about driving it. So I did. The new plugs are also in the truck at this time. I drove it the next day and right away.. I noticed a misfire. Thought maybe the plug was bad. I told my mechanic about it and he said... Sounds like a COP to me.
So I get a new COP. Okay.. easy fix. Installed it and still got a misfire. Told my mechanic and he said get another COP. So I'm thinking.. "Okay.. get a new part to fix a new part.. sounds logical.. lol" so I do what he thinks might be best. I replace the COP with another new one and it's still misfiring. The new cops are also motocraft brand as well.
Okay... next step.. he claims it may be a VCT solenoid issue. At this point I don't care.. I just want my truck fixed. So he replaces the driver side solenoid. Still misfiring..
So after doing some research on the scanner... we locate some issues that are the exact symptoms I'm having. Misfire.. at low rpm.. during cruise control.. and a sudden at idle.
This information states for this drivability issue.. to spray injector cleaner/carb cleaner into the engine and possibly clean it out. Makes sense. He did this as well as changed the fuel filter. Also did a pressure test on the injectors to make sure they were good. They were. After spraying and cleaning it out, it was taken for a test drive and it seemed okay... but not perfect. The next day.. the misfire came back.
He said that if the misfire returns, that I need to contact the dealership and see if there is a pcm update. The dealership said there probably is but can't tell me until the computer is hooked up to it. (Of course there is a charge when it's hooked up) again.. whatever.. I just want it fixed. The truck is scheduled to go in next Wednesday for that. If that doesn't fix it, my mechanic said cam phasers possibly bUT still not sure for sure..
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I sea Foamed the truck today. I will be pulling my heads most likely and am doing a few things beforehand just in case. History: low compression and misfire on #2. Have changed plugs and swapped out cops. Paper against exhaust pipe sucks in and pops against the pipe intermittently. Seems like intake valve.
Anyways, poured in a whole damn bottle through the brake vacuum line. The engine sputtered a bit but never stalled. I saw almost no smoke after a whole bottle!! I thought with 156000 miles it would smoke like mad. I have taken very good care of this truck and changed oil every 3 to 5 with synthetic 5-20 since new. Could it be that clean???
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After replacing most of the underside of my Super Duty, Complete front end, backing plates, brakes, rotors and shocks, I have a misfire code on cylinder #4. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the MAS and filter and rotated the coil to cylinder #1. Still have a misfire on #4 and noticed the coolant slightly low and some condensation on the oil cap. Could this be the intake gasket? My mechanic is away for 2 weeks and I think the price at the dealer will kill me. I have 63K on the truck, don't tow and plow mostly family members. It's getting a little rusty but is still in good shape.
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I've got a 2015 F250 with a 6.2 Liter with no compression on 3 cylinders. The dealer just diagnosed it and has not opened it up yet but the mechanic says it is probably a broken valve spring...that it is not uncommon in this engine.
My concern is not repairing the spring my concern is what a "free spinning" piston in 3 cylinders does to the life expectancy of the main and connecting bearings in this engine. I have rebuilt engines in the past and I have bought re-built from auto parts stores and from Jasper and I have never had any last more than 60-70K miles. It seems to me that even with very little mileage on the engine with three of eight pistons jumping around under no pressure that there could be considerable scarring of the bearings or bearing surfaces. I am no expert by any stretch but this is an engine in atruck that has less than 22K miles on it and I ain't real happy about opening it up let alone trusting for the next 280K miles that the bearings have more wear on them than they should have. It was only driven about 20 miles total like this but that is a lot of pressure on a highly tuned and pretty darn precision machine.
This is the newest vehicle I have owned since 1988 and I meant for it to be the last pickup I drive (I drive 'em til the wheels fall off) but I am not overly confident that even if this is a one off problem that it hasn't caused even more damage that won't show up for another 100K miles or so???
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I have a 2000 ford f250 5.4 2v that's been having a shaking at idle and no power what so ever. I tried diagnosing it myself and came up with nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealer and they are telling me that the right side has no compression on 3 cylinders. They want almost 7000 for a new engine. I was wondering if it was possible to get away with just putting a new head on the right side?
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I have a 2003 f250 5.4 with a couple of bad valves and low compression and a dead miss because of it... I just bought what appears to be a 2001 5.4 from an f150... I am worried now this engine wont work and cannot find anything online that can tell me yes or no....
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I have an 04 F350 with Glow Plug errors on cylinder 2, 4 and 8. I have already replaced the harness on that side because the old one was gunked up pretty bad. Still have the same issue. Does this sound like a GPCM issue to ya'll?
AE pulled the following codes:
P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit
P0674 Cylinder 4 Glow Plug Circuit
P0678 Cylinder 8 Glow Plug Circuit
Not having issues starting but it rarely gets into the 30's here in FL.
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I just had the bed and tailgate on my 2004 replaced with a 2015. The body shop took my old lock cylinder out to put in the new tailgate. The old tailgate is only a year old and I wanted to sell it. The issue is that the latch will not open the tailgate. I can manually unlatch it by pulling the rods. Does the lock cylinder not being installed somehow affect this and need to be installed for it to function properly or do the rods simply need to be adjusted?
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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I just picked up my truck from my mechanic after he was trying to determine what was causing a misfire in cylinder 3. He swapped coils and then did a compression test and found the following results in cylinders 1 through 4, in order: 143, 132, 57, 151. He said I need to replace the engine or start with adding Engine Restore. Is there a chance I don't need to replace the engine? Could it need a valve job?
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I am a new vr6 owner. I just purchased mine not to long ago. It seems to have developed a pretty mean misfire on Cylinder #4. It is also showing a low compression level of 90 on cylinder #4. all my other cylinders show somewhere between 105-110. I replaced my wires and my coilpack. It did not improve anything, infact, my car seems to run worse now. I am baffled as to what can be causing my misfire.
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