Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Tailgate Won't Open If Lock Cylinder Is Missing?
Mar 5, 2016
I just had the bed and tailgate on my 2004 replaced with a 2015. The body shop took my old lock cylinder out to put in the new tailgate. The old tailgate is only a year old and I wanted to sell it. The issue is that the latch will not open the tailgate. I can manually unlatch it by pulling the rods. Does the lock cylinder not being installed somehow affect this and need to be installed for it to function properly or do the rods simply need to be adjusted?
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I just bought a 'new to me' 2005 F250, Crew Cab with a v10. The Carfax showed up clean but after doing some detailing on it, I realized it had been resprayed and there was a little wrinkle in the bumper. I tried using the ignition key to lock the tailgate but it didn't work, so I'm assuming its been replaced. Need to confirm that the ignition key should be the key that works the tailgate lock or is the tailgate a different key that they guy never gave me?
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Just bought a nice little project 1999 4X4. 100k miles and overall decent condition.
One of the first things to tackle is the driver's front hub has no manual 4x4 locking mechanism like on the passenger side. Is this a tough job?
Attached is the picture of the hub & missing lock setup. (Can't upload...).
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1995 7.3L f350 400k mi developed 1poss 2 cyl miss does not change after warm up and will die after 10 min .
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I have a problem with an 2000 F250 7.3 6spd. Recently, the "key in the ignition" chime kept dinging even when no key was in the ignition. I read in the forums that a wire can be disconnected to stop the chime. The problem is that after I re-install the cylinder lock, I cannot move the key to the off position to remove the key. I can rotate it to start and run, but it won't move backwards to the off or acc position.
The truck has this little lever that normally needs to be pushed to allow key to be released, but even after pushing that, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and messing with the tilt, I still can't get the key into the off position. I have removed the cylinder and it looks good. It rotates properly and I can remove the key, but only when it isn't installed. I tried replacing the ignition switch, but the lock cylinder still doesn't move.
I have an 04 F250 that I've tried swapping the lock cylinders from the 04 to the 00, but it still doesn't turn. What might be the cause/fix? Also, the 2000 F250 has a intermittent chirping/squeaking sound under the dash that happens even when the batteries are disconnected - might this be a malfunctioning vacuum motor? It happens even though the truck hasn't been driven for a week.
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I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
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I have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
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I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
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My v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
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I was washing my 2004 F-250 today and I looked down by the front passenger wheel well and I noticed a small chuck missing from the bottom of the frame. The other side in the same spot doesn't have it and at the spot in question, I noticed some sort of crack had been welded before. I never had any of that done to the truck. What about getting it fixed? get it fixed right away or keep an eye out for cracks. so far its just that hole and what looks like a welded crack above. everything else seems fine. I know a repair would be inexpensive and easy just to weld a steel or titanium plate on the spot.
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My 2003 tailgate locks by itself sometimes, has been just annoying, but today I can't unlock it. It has no electronic lock. What to do?
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07 Superduty, Oxford white. I have been looking all around NC pick a parts for a decent replacement tailgate. I know more recent years will fit, with hinge mods. Question is, what is the most recent year that will fit with hinge swaps only?? Looking for a source in SC/NC/VA for a replacement?
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Looking to get rid of the step handle, I did this mod on mine and it was a direct fit...take off old liner and unbolt handle, then get a liner from a non-step tailgate and it is a direct fit:
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I bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
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I have an 04 f250 the 4wd won't lock in for some reason. The truck has manual locking hubs (turn them to the right to lock in 4wd or turn them to the left to unlock them) and I get the light on the dash just fine but the truck doesn't actually lock in.
When i I put it in 4 low it feels like it's in but it's not. I also noticed that when I put it in park while it's in 4 low it makes a crazy sound like it would when you put a car in park while you're still moving and the park pin makes that clicking noise.
Anywhere in particular I should start to look? Nothing up in the front end looks abnormal or out of place.
I've had the truck 10 years. Never had any 4wd related issues. I did however replace the transmission in December (and I did successfully use the 4wd after the transmission was installed).
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My rear cab door pass side decided it wasn't going to open anymore. Tried playing with the lock. Flipper thing and the inside handle with no luck.
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Just replaced my recently stolen tailgate. What are the dimensions for the King Ranch emblem location for a 2015?
Also, any way to tie the tailgate into the alarm system (similar to the way the hood is). I'm guessing that you could possibly tap into the wiring under the hood and add a switch/contact at the tailgate... Also, how would this interfere with engine immobilizer, etc?
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I have a 2008 F250 that the tailgate has always been real easy to open and close until the other day I could not get it to latch so i slammed it and it did latch and it worked a few days but now it won't latch at all. I can open and close the latch with the tailgate down but nothing I do will make it latch in place. I've tried spraying with PB blaster it didn't work. Not sure if its out of adjustment or what.
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I have a 2014 f250 with tailgate assist, How do I remove the tailgate from the truck?
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Odd thing happened. All of a sudden the factory emblem on my 2008 tailgate totally lost all of its blue and is now pure chrome. Happened just like that.
Anyway, is it screwed on and do I need to pull the panel on the tailgate to remove it? Here's the tailgate on my truck for reference.
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My truck is a 99 Superduty, low miles and no rust, Id like to find a tailgate for it. There's a guy on CL selling one from a 2001 F150' claims it'll fit. I'd like to know.
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