Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Speedometer And HVAC Lights Dead
Nov 19, 2014
I'm installing an aftermarket radio in my 2004 SD. The illumination control stopped working (when I turn on the lights, the radio doesn't get darker), and now the dash and a/c panel aren't backlit any more.
This is the first time I've driven it since the new radio. I thought I might have seen a spark when testing to see which wire was the illumination control, but I'm not sure. I've got a fuse box diagram, but so far all the fuses look good.
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I just picked up this truck and have found my first undisclosed problem. The A/C only works on MAX. If you turn to any other setting, regardless of selected temp, the air blows hot. And I mean full hot! I was thinking the control panel assembly is bad?
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2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 with 4 wheel drive.
Late last winter, the 4WD stopped working. I diagnosed it to be a vacuum problem. Like a moron, I purchased a vacuum pump and threw it in there, I just figured that it was bad. It turns out the new pump I bought was bad, but the old pump was fine... Go figure. At any rate, when I switch to 4WD, my HVAC goes to full defrost and the 4WD does not engage.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the 4WD actuator, since if I hook the vacuum pump output directly to the hubs, the 4WD works fine. If I switch it into 4WD, I can hear the vacuum releasing in the actuator, but it doesn't seem like any vacuum actually gets routed to the hubs. It just opens to atmosphere.
I've noticed that after switching to 4WD, the actuator only "Releases" the vacuum for a few seconds, and then seems to close itself. Is this normal? If I cycle the 4WD selector from 2WD to 4WD repeatedly, it will continue to cycle.
1. Is there any way to service this valve, or should I replace it?
2. Is the valve acting normally?
3. Am I on track with this repair?
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When my hvac controls are turned to hot, I'm getting only luke warm air. When moved over to cold it feels like the a/c is on...granted it is 21 degrees here. What I've done so far:
1. Flushed the coolant system at the local COOP TBA
2. Flushed heater core-Both heater hoses are hot to the touch as well as the heater core itself. The hoses are within 10 degrees of each other tested by an infrared temp gauge.
3. Verified the blend door actuator is moving. I can see it spin while attached to the box as well as I pulled it out and plugged it in it will move from hot to cold.
4. Smacked the #$%! out of the blend door box.
The fan still functions as it should from low to high. The truck also gets up to operating temp as usual.
Is it possible the actuator is still faulty even though it moves and not going all the way to the heat side? I considered picking up a replacement but I hate to start throwing parts at it.
Did the blend door give up? The snow is here and I need the heat for those 4am waterfowl hunting trips.
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So my vents stopped actuating to different positions in my 2011 6.7 F350. I read that it could be a vacuum pump or solenoid issue. In any event, I turned 4x4 on and went down the street and made a u-turn - 4x4 seems to be on as the truck wants to hop the outside wheel when turning. I want to check the vacuum pump anyway but for the life of me cannot find it anywhere. Moreover, google turns up nothing which is making me start to believe the new trucks have a completely different system.
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My HVAC blower motor stopped today while the wife was driving the F250. I thought I should swap relays (with the heated mirror relay - same Ford Part Number) to rule it out or identify it as the culprit. However, since these are close to the firewall, I have a hard time getting the grip and leverage to pull the relay out of the Battery Junction Box (BJB). How to make this a bit easier?
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I was recently on a trip pulling my 32' Travel Trailer, and out of the Hvac system started blowing scalding hot air and soot and smoke into the cab. I pulled over to check things out and could find nothing wrong. When the turbo kicks in it blows even hotter. I could find nothing wrong at the time. As I got back on the road again it started again a few miles down the road.
I made it home and started checking things out. Around the dash, airbag, glove box, on the window , headliner and carpeting, is covered in soot and smoke. the computer is now telling me that ALL the doors are ajar, power locks and key fob do not work, 3/4 of the window switches do not work and 1 window does not work now. I removed the glove box and the panel underneath it to look at the HVAC system.
What I saw about made me cry. The Plastic that houses the HVAC system had started melting and the HVAC hoses have melted. I have still not found the reason for any of this to happen. Also when I got the truck a year ago the Turbo would spool up around 1800 to 2000 RPM. Now it does not spool up until around 3000 to 3250 RPM.
HVAC system and hose
HVAC system housing
Glove Box and Vent
Air bag and Vent
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The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
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I just bought a 99 f250 sd 5.4. The speedometer doesn't start working until it reaches about 30 mph. The transmission doesn't shift correctly until the speedometer starts working. I cleaned the speed sensor on the rear end but that didn't work. I don't see any sensors or switches on the tranny other than the neutral safety switch. What it is?
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On my '99 F250 PSD 4x4 the speedometer climbs very smoothly (normal) until I hit 54mph and then it just stops going up. Reviewing other posts I have changed the DSS (differential speed/ABS sensor) and the VSS (tranny speed sensor). Disconnected both batteries for several hours to see if it would clear.
Doesn't bounce, peg, go to 0, just won't go past 54mph. No power loss. Tach continues to climb and speed continues to increase. No strange symptoms except this 54mph thing. It is completely repeatable. All fuses under the dash and hood check out ok.
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I've got a 99 F-250 7.3 with the 6 speed manual. My speedometer is accurate to within 1 mph or so. However when compared to a GPS unit, my odometer is off by about 50%...meaning it registers approximately 1 mile for every 2 traveled.
I was under the impression the mechanism that results in the speed being displayed is the same one driving the odometer and therefore if one was off, the other would be (conversely, if the speedo is accurate, so would be the ODO). How do I resolve this issue?
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I bought a 1999 Superduty 7.3 6 speed and went out to drive it yesterday and noticed my speedometer stops working at 40mph. I saw many posts about this but no fixes. Bad cluster or vss? No abs light on dash. Still runs and shifts good. Only one yellow airbag light illuminated on dash...
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For a 99 F250 7.3 with 6 speed manual..my odometer goes around but the speedometer does not work at any speed. A mechanic said he thinks the problem is in the gauge cluster but I would like to know where to start troubleshooting.
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my speedo doesn't work but, all the other gages do. I just replaced the front hubs, abs sensors, ball joints etc... I put a new sensor in the rear end this morning and still nothing isthere a fuse tied to this somewhere? am I missing something? it's a 5.4l with a 4r100
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1999 superduty 7.3 standard ... As I said speedometer fail with abs lite on. When ambient ten above 85F, speedo works abs lite out and cruse control works.
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I have an 04 F250 with no brake lights. However the third brake light works. I've also noticed that my trailer brake lights don't work either. I do have all my turn signals and running lights. Another issue that could be connected is I have one out of four hazard lights. When I push in the hazards my front passenger blinker works but none of the others. Could this all be due to a relay switch?
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Bought an 04' F250, looked good but definitely not well maintained. Have replaced tranny temp sensor, thermostat, fuel filters, air filter.... Etc. heads have been redone and new studs installed , Egr delete, new oil cooler, flushed cooling system. Now tonight coming home noticed the brake lights aren't working, all 3 are out... fuses are good. I've heard multifunction switch or brake switch.....
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I have searched everywhere, but I can't find the information I need for anything newer than 2007. I have the instrument cluster removed, and I can't figure out how to get to the bulb. In previous years, it just twisted out, but this one is different.
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1999 f-250 7.3 diesel. Speedometer doesn't work and neither does the odometer, the ABS light stays on and once you start driving the OD light starts flashing and the truck starts shifting weird. I've changed the rear ABS/VSS sensor on the diff and the OSS on top of the transmission at the tail end. Still no luck.....
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Buddy has '96 Dump Truck. I think it is an F650 but there a no markings. It is small as dump trucks go, but has air brakes and an automatic transmission.
The speedometer goes back and forth full scale as if a speedometer cable were bad. Problem with that is, my buddy says it has an electronic speedometer.
About the only thing I can think of that would cause that problem is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
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