Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Low Speed Vibration 15 - 20 Mph On Acceleration / Deceleration?
Sep 10, 2015
2004 F350 single rear wheel with 8" suspension (springs) lift and 37" tires all put on in 2005. Having low speed vibration 15-20 mph on accel and decel. Recently put on thick aluminum rear dif cover and vibration seems to have come since that install. Used Mobile synthetic fluid and 4 oz of Motorcraft antifriction additive and 4 oz of off brand. The Mobile fluid and antifriction have been in my barn for over 5 years in the winter and summer. I just changed the carrier bearing and all U-joints look good. Any chance the fluid and antifriction additive could be causing this? Truck has 66k miles.
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Now that I use my truck as a daily driver I am noticing a vibration under acceleration at 30-35 and constant vibration at 45-50 accelerating or maintaining speed. I have replaced all three u-joints as well as new ribbed highway tires all around and still have the vibration. It seems worse in OD. I have done a little research and am either going to shim center support/machine a new one or have a one piece shaft made and need info on how to successfully gotten rid of this vibe on their truck mainly the amount of shimming required and the final driveline angle. It seems that most posts regarding this issue lean towards the fact that the 45-50mph vibe is normal for my year super duty and that's probably right but I want to remedy problem not "live with it!" (10 mile 45mph stretch to work @ 4AM, vibe bugs the heck out of me!)
Truck is 2000 f250 SC 2wd 4r100 3.73 gear currently 51000 miles.
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I just purchased a new 2015 F250 SC 8ft bed 4X4 2 weeks ago. I am experiencing a vibration on soft acceleration (I feel it through the floor), by that I mean when there is power going through the driveway, not coasting. I plan on making an appointment with the dealer. New F250 SC LB 4x4 truck.
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I just bought my 2015 F350 long bed Platinum a month ago, and the first trip with my 12,000 lb. 5th wheel had a vibration when starting out, but only from a stoplight with some acceleration or an incline, not at level slow startup.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty with a mean vibration at 70+ mph. It is a 5.4L manual trans manual 4x4 extended cab short box with around 250k miles on the body and 50k on the motor. It is a one piece drive shaft with the double knuckle at the t- case. it has had a vibration in the drive line since i bought i about a year ago. there is almost zero vibration at 60 mph but at around 70 the vibration starts to get really bad. The vibration is speed related because when i push in the clutch or pull it out of gear the vibration is still there. i seems to vibrate more when winding out in 3rd and 4th gear but that may just be because off the exhaust resonating or something. I have already done u-joints, balanced the drive shaft, put brand new tires on mounted and balanced, replace transfer case output bearing and both front hub assemblies. the vibration feels like it is coming from the trans or transfer case. every thing i tried made very little impact on the vibration. I'm a loss and i don't know what else to try. i know the throw out bearing an pilot bushing are bad and the clutch is well worn so ill be replacing that soon but i don't believe that is causing the vibration.
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My truck has had a bad vibration for some time know, it started around 41,000 miles and took it to my local Ford dealer... the told me I needed tires and that my airdam/bumper extinction was loose and causing it to vibrate . I put front tires on I fixed the plastic on the bumper and replaced steering stabilizer . Vibration continued to come and go after all of that so I replace the steering stabilizer with a different steering stabilizer .
I noticed that the front seals for my four-wheel-drive allowed the shaft to move up and down by more than a half an inch of play.so I had Ford replace the front hubs and seals . Vibration is now worse and more often. It happens every time I am between 50-54mph. I am going to put 6 new Michelin defender Tires on it and new shocks and a Monroe steering stabilizer.
YouTube....
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I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
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I have this bucking a jerking when pulling my Sundowner LQ horse trailer, primarily in the 40-50 mph range. I can let off throttle and it stops but resumes unless I feather the throttle.... 2008 f 350, 4WD, 6.4, 48k miles....
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"2004 Ford F250 FX4 for sale. 5.4l v8, automatic transmission, 4x4, 152,000 miles. Truck runs and drives good but needs a rear drive shafts due to a vibration above 50mph."
Are their any known issues with these? I am guessing it is a u-joint or something, not the driveshaft.
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I have a 2007 6.0L 4x4 it has 225k on it. I just had it into the dealer this past week (which we just purchased end of June) they replaced back pressure sensor and #7 injector. Now when you get to about 70-75 on incline it is decelerating and hesitate and looses some of its power.
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On my 2006 F-250 truck, the speedometer is acting funky. It's like it stuck on the deceleration and now at a complete stop or idle it shows a speed of anywhere from 40-60 mph. It does change and go up and down, as I drive but it's now just off by 30-60 mph. Is this an electronic setting/calibration that one can do?
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I have 2004 F250 6.0 diesel. I added 35s with diamo rims and I installed a front end lift which added a small leaf springs to the factory leaf spring to raise the front end 2 inches . The truck drives fine no problems at high speeds and low speeds except for right at 45 mph. At that speed the whole truck vibrates up and down . If I accelerate the vibration goes away. Discount tire rotated balanced etc and even replace a rim and nothing has changed. I did put the factory wheels and tires back on and the vibration went away. Put the big tires and rims back on and vibration is there at 45 mph. How to troubleshoot this ? I have 90,000 miles on her.
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Have a 2004 F-250 and blower motor speed 3 is not working..replaced resistor pack with Motorcraft part and everything works except position 3 ....
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I have an 04 6.0 F250. I am having a shaking between 1500 and 2500 RPM around 45 - 55 MPH. I have no guesses what is calling this, but the truck runs fine otherwise.
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Okay here we go. 97 F250 HD with 460 and e4od.160,000 miles, MSD 8.5 Super Conductors, Mallory 6A, KNN air filter, Transmission Flushed new filter including inline and Mercon V. New Hedman Headers and Y-pipe into Cat delete stock exhaust. New front fuel pump and filter. New 38 gallon conversion rear tank and fuel pump. Air pump delete. New IAC valve. Timing set to stock. oil just changed Valvoline high mileage full synthetic, KNN oil filter , Lucas Full Synthetic oil Stabilizer, Injectors cleaned on truck with Berrymans, Entire cooling system has been thoroughly flushed. New 4 core radiator and 180 degree high-flow thermostat, new belts, new water pump, new hoses, new 13lb rad cap.
So here's the problem. It gets hot under acceleration. If I do a 0 - 80 mile per hour run the temperature gauge will go from a steady "O" reading to the high side of "R" (of course I am referring to the word displayed "NORMAL").. if I am Towing 0 - 65 mile per hour run will put the Gage to a solid "A" Reading then drop quickly once the throttle is lifted. It can idle all day long with the AC on and it will not come above the"O". I would normally think that this has caused buy a stuck thermostat however the thermostat is new and a stuck thermostat while running easy, would most likely cause the lowest temperature to be around the letter "N" on the gauge. I have no condensation coming out of the exhaust whatsoever except what is normally associated with first start up on a full exhaust system. I have no additional pressure or bubbling in the radiator. I have no foreign fluid in the radiator either from oil or transmission fluid being introduced. And I have no coolant contaminants in the oil at all which would normally indicate a head gasket or intake issues. This is definitely a concern because Towing an RV in hilly conditions will allow the gauge to climb rapidly. The bigger the hill the longer and harder the acceleration the higher the temperature will climb. I am stumped.
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I have a 2002 Honda CRV-LX with over 200,000 miles. I'm experiencing a loud hum and vibration between 40 and 50 mph on acceleration and deceleration. It occurs when I'm driving straight or turning left, but goes away when I turn right.
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I just bought a used 2004 3.5l automatic Santa Fe. The vibration is most noticeable from 35 - 40mph during acceleration and deceleration. It's there at higher speeds but the car doesn't physically vibrate as much.
The vibration is there with the car coasting and transmission in neutral. It's there with the car coasting and the motor off.
The tires and wheels have been swapped out with other wheels and tires. No change.
The front driveshaft U-joint has been replaced. No change.
It seems to be in the drivetrain somewhere. I would like to fix it without slowly replacing everything.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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My Son drives a 2012 6.7, and just recently it started overheating bu only under acceleration? It runs cool while idling, and once you reach the desired speed, it cools back down, but under acceleration it overheats? We've checked the obvious (coolant etc...), but can't figure out what it would do this only under acceleration?
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On the way home today upon medium acceleration I heard a pop kinda like a backfire ......now black smoke pours out on acceleration.no much in line of power either. Hoping I haven't screwed the motor ...
6.0 ltr turbo diesel 2004 f-350 super duty crew cab 4x4 ....
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My '05 5.4 SD CCLB is running badly. 95k mikes. Plugs done 6 months ago. Acceleration is very sluggish. Sometimes uphill from a stop is almost impossible.
No CEL codes other than an intermittent coolant temp gauge that spikes but resets as soon as I shut down and restart.
When it is bogging the exhaust note changes - almost like there is a blockage. It is almost a booming sound. I would like to test to see if the cat is clogged. I have a vacuum gauge but need to find a vacuum source after the throttle body to do so. If I pull out the O2 sensors ( to allow the exhaust pressure to exit ) would the truck run badly because the O2 sensors were not functioning?
If it turns out that the converter is bad. Can I just eliminate the cats? I do not need emissions testing here in PA because the truck is so heavy. But I don't know if eliminating the cats will cause other problems.
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