Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Gears Not Perfect / Hub Replacement?
Feb 13, 2017
I was plowing snow this morning when all of a sudden I had no 4x4. or should I say VERY little.
I clicked it in and out of 4wd to see if it would re-engage. and Nope. Nothing good. Got out and did a walk around, only to find that my passengers locking hub apparently decided it was a good day to run away from home. (Yes. It is now an empty hole )
Now, before we diagnose why, or where I should preface this by saying that I replaced the wheel hub a while back and the locker fell out after the replacement and had some not perfect gears on it. The locking ring was replaced but obviously that is the culprit somewhere.
So with that being said, I pushed the hub up into a VERY large snowpile someplace. Not exactly sure where and tearing it down is not an option with it's location without being able to re-stack it. (Directly on the side of a main road) So I figure I will just replace it.
So. here is the question. What should i replace it with. Of course this is one of those retarded auto lockers and manual options that seem to work when they want. and ONLY when they want, unless of course they are set to lock.
Should I just get a regular hub? Or is there really a benefit to the Warn replacement kit.
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So I just bought my first car, a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4 V8 gas engine with 150,000 miles that I will be using to tow my horse trailer. It has some things I need to fix. The main issue is that it wont start.
When I first went to look at it I tried jumping it, as the battery was dead and I still couldn't start it, though it was turning over. The previous owner then tried jumping it the next day, got it started and met me half way where I bought the truck. Turned it off where we met and it started right up again and I drove it home. It sat in my driveway overnight and then wouldn't start the next day, though it is turning over like before.
The battery is only a month old. There is another sensor issue where they had to disconnect the dash or the truck would randomly stop running. I believe it's the speed sensor? I received the repair reports from the dealer saying "code B1352 in memory for ignition key fault" and they removed an aftermarket remote start. "four U1027 and other U codes found, replaced crankshaft sensor".
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I have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
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2004 F350 Lariat Crew Cab. My truck has been repeatedly attempted to be broken into through the keyhole. This time they fully punched it through the door, and now i have a hole where the lock should be.
I researched stuff like jimmi-jammers etc, but for the time being.. I am looking just to pick up a set of handles without keyholes. I have remote-less entry and keypad.
Couple questions... Would rear door handles off a crew cab, fit to the fronts? they look the exact same minus the keyhole.. and this would likely be the easiest to find.
Or... Is there any good websites i can take a look at that will manufacture keyless front driver and passenger side handles? They're textured black, and i would like them to match as best as possible.
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So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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I have a 1999 F450 that was bought new as a cab and chassis. The truck belonged to my dad who passed away two years ago and now I have it. I am wondering if it has 4.30 or 4.88 gears. The rear end is huge! It has an aluminum cover with cooling fins on it, not sure if they both had that or not. I looked online and I think it said all cab and chassis had 4.88?
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I have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
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I've got a 2003 350 7.3, with the zf6, approx 225000. I've been chasing a vibration that can be felt in the whole truck for quite a while. Feels like a wheel bearing danm near shot. But after replacing both wheel bearings and making over the whole front end it didn't go away. So I replaced the clutch and throw out bearing cause it was getting bad anyway. The vi ration is still there so I checked the harmonic balancer and it was bad so I replaced that. Still no dice. I know that it's coming from the trans, you can hear it in when jacked up and running in gear. Shifts fine in all gears. But the vibration/ clunking is there in all gears and it's getting bad. It feels like a bearing going out. Could it be input shaft bearing or pilot?
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I was driving down the highway and the truck was in overdrive and under a load passing at about 20lbs boost and all of the sudden I lost all power, felt truck shake a little. The tow/haul light is flashing and got only one code P0730. The truck won't go into gear in either forward or reverse now, had it towed home and put a pressure gauge on it and found about 100psi at idle In neutral, in reverse and forward I got strange readings the pressure goes way up momentarily then down to 100psi, and increments back up to over 500 psi and seems to stay there but neither forward or reverse engage. I have no clue what could be wrong at this point. I am attaching a video .....
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Started flaring between 3rd and 4th I changed the pressure solenoid and the direct clutch and no change. Flushed the tranny and changed filters and no change the oil is not burnt. When it flares it goes into a safe mode on the dash and will shift perfect through 4th gear no issues. I guess I've always know if it's bad it's bad but I don't understand why it works in a safe mode but slips in regular. Also if it is a bad tranny will a 3c2p-7000 work as a swap in my truck. 2008 6.4 4x4 ....
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I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
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This is an early 99 f250 powerstroke 6spd manual 4wd, is it common or normal to hear a lot of transmission rattle at low rpm especially in lower gears under a load. Starting off from a dead stop it sounds awful until about 1500 rpm where it clears up (or load is reduced). I'm hoping it's just the power pulses going through splined shafts, gears, etc.
210k on the truck, just changed every fluid in it.
I've been a honda owner and mechanic for all of my driving years where shifting at 8500 rpm is common and now I'm having a hard time learning what this thing likes, rpm ranges to avoid, ect; even shifting I find difficult. At least you can heel toe with the pedal arrangement...
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2002 f350 7.3 ... problems started all of a sudden one day. I have an edge evolution tuner in my stroke. I have it set to make all of my shifts firm. One day it started shifting really sluggish between 1st and 2nd gears only. It don't do it all the time, but it does it more often then it doesn't. I have also noticed when i come to a complete stop and then start out again it seems that it doesn't downshift all the way back to first and when i hit the gas it seems to kinda be stuck between gears and it barely moves until i get the rpms up before it will ease its way into 2nd and the converter locks up.
It shifts a through all the other gears just fine nice and firm like it should, its just the shift between 1st and 2nd. Im wondering if maybe it might be the speed sensors or maybe the tranny filter is getting clogged up? The fluid in it is still nice and red and up to the level it should be. I just bought the truck in october and the fluid was nice and red when i bought it, but who knows if they changed the filter. I have had NO tranny problems with it up until a few days ago when this little problem started.
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Was driving my 2000 Ford F-350 stopped transmission would not move no more there was no noises no nothing just stopped pulling no gears nothing only Park works...
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2008 F250 5.4L 150k. My truck has been driving pretty rough in low gears, rough idle, and today the check engine light came on then getting on the interstate the light started blinking. I ran the code it came back 0307,300,308,300. After doing some research on here, I've come to the conclusion to change out the coils on 7 & 8. Questions are, should I change plugs as well? And how important is it to keep all the boots (of all 8) the same color (brown or black)? And should I expect to change all the rest soon?
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2002 sd 7.3 4x4. When I start up engine and put truck in any gear I get nothing but the ugly clicking sound when I shift back into park. Turn off engine and restart, everything works as normal. Doesn't do it every time 4-8 normal start ups then a bad one. Brought it to a tranny guy, head scratcher for him. Any other solution before I start changing parts?
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So I have a 1995 f-250 4x4 with the 460 and a E4od. So when I bought the truck I drive it two hours home and when I got into town it started shifting really hard and searching for gears. So I flushed it and installed a new oil filter because the oil in it was brown. Very brown. And smelled awful. So it shifts good, but what's happening now is that it shifts good in drive when it wants to.
In the morning it works great but when I get in it to leave after school it shifts really late (around 2900 rpm) and hard. So I put it in first and then into second but when it's time for third and I put it in drive it shifts back to first. But if I stop shut it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it works fine. It only does this after it's been sitting in the school parking lot all day. I replaced the mlps but not the connector due to I didn't have time at the moment. Could it be the tps? Something mechanical?
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Any downside to using a nut that covers the entire stud on my '99 450?
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On the surface, the F-250/350 seems to have great brakes: big rotors, vented front and rear, and dual-piston calipers front and rear. But, I have two problems:
One is the annoying 'grunt' the brakes make every time you change from Park to Drive, or Park to Reverse, or Drive to Reverse. Its as if under normal brake pressure, the brakes cannot hold the truck from moving against the torque convertor engaging. It's not just my truck, I've heard older SD's with the 5.4L or diesel do this too. If you push the pedal really hard, it won't grunt.
The second problem I think is the root of the first: mushy brakes. Maybe I'm just used to driving european cars with firm brakes, but every time I apply my truck's brakes, it feels like I need to bleed the system! The truck does slow pretty well, and I realize it's heavy, but how can the pedal feel be improved? Maybe replacing the rubber sections with braided stainless?
Lastly, the truck has a 'hill-hold' feature which is retarded in an automatic transmission. My problem with it, is that sometimes it sticks on...engage drive, the truck won't move...a second later its like something gets unstuck and the truck kind of lurches forward.
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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After 225,000 miles, my turbo appears to have failed -- not spinning. This is a stock turbo that is unaltered. Yes, I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles.
My question is; what is a reliable after-market replacement part that will bolt up?
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