Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F550 - Brakes Dragging / Won't Roll When Out Of Gear
Nov 24, 2013
The brakes seam to be dragging on my F550.It won't roll when out of gear. Noticed a good deal of brake dust on all 4 corners after just a couple hundred miles. Also,when it does roll I can some times hear it creak slightly. At not time does it lose any braking action nor does the brake pedal get hard or soft.I know it will need pads and rotors soon since the rotors are pretty grooved. (Just bought the truck last month....it's on my LOOOOONG to do list.....).
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Recently purchased 2006 F-550. Noticed the brakes seemed a bit squishy and weren't stopping the truck as well as I thought they might. Looked under the car and saw this at the right rear tire. Give it to me straight, doc.
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Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
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Ok, so I am trying to get are 99 F550 all fixed up and have a few things to ask.
So we have had the ABS light on now for some time. I had it scanned at O Riley's and the scanner said the abs sensor on the passenger side was faulty. So I replaced that and the light was still on. We had taken the truck to ford to get it checked out for a rear end problem we have been having as some of you may know from a previous post I made.
Well ford said it was the rear sensor on the axle that was causing the abs light to come on. So I replaced that. Still have the abs light on. I disconnected the batteries to try and see if that would reset it and it did not. I hooked up the Scan Gauge II and ran to see if it picked up anything. It said it did not pick up any thing. I still did a code clear but it didn't work. If there a tricky way that you have to get the code cleared off?
2nd I was checking the fluid. I noticed that the tranny fluid is over filled quite a bit. Will this hurt it? Should I drain the fluid to where its at the fill line?
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OK, so I have the brake pedal downshifting, but there is no real exhaust brake. Can I have one installed, like the latter model 2015 or even the 2016, with the button?
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I have a 2008 f-550 diesel. Had water in fuel. Flushed the entire system. Replaced the fuel filters and injectors but still will not start.
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I'm working on a 2000 7.3 that was running but had no power so we changed out all the injectors and glow plugs and rebuilt the turbo now there is no start ...
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It has a 7.3 bone stock in it. When it is cranking you can hear a relay clicking. it's behind the dash just below the radio. There are 3 relays together 1 big one which is for trailer lights and 2 small ones which i don't know where they go. but i replaced all 3 and i still hear the clicking ONLY when the engine is cranking.
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I have a new 2013 F-550 Lariat 200" WB on order. I can and will increase the combination weight on the truck, to make full use of the 19, 500 gvwr. My question is how much will a current F-550 pull on a 5th wheel/gooseneck style trailer before it becomes dangerous? I plan to set the truck up with an 11ft aluminum Eby flat body, with a Holland FW6000 5th wheel placed under the body. I am considering a 35 or 40 ft flat gooseneck.
The combination weight would be changed based upon the axles I choose to put under the trailer. Two 12k axles will give me 44,000 gcwr, two 15k axles will give me 50,000 gcwr, and two 16k axles would give me a 51,000 gcwr. The truck will be able to carry about 10,000-11,000, the trailer needs to take the rest. I am confident that 44,000 gcwr will not be a problem, but the idea of 50,000, or 51,000 really makes me question safety. So, how much have you hauled with a F-550, and a gooseneck trailer?
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New to me 2012 F550 parking lights will not go off. Battery disconnected now. Touch battery cable parking lights come on.
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I have a 2001 F550 flatbed tow truck with a 7.3 and the ZF 6 trans. i put a Luk clutch flywheel pressure plate new throw out bearing new clutch fork New clutch slave cylinder and master set up. When i push the clutch in it is VERY EASY compared to the way it was before. Ane when you push the clutch in and put it in gear you can hear the clutch disc rubbing on the flywheel and if you lift your foot the thickness of a hair the truck takes off. Also i can't engage my PTO because the clutch is not disengaging all the way. there is No adjustments on this set up. What Now.
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I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
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after replacing rotors,calipers,pads,hoses and hardware with OEM parts TWICE now I'm still having issues with my brakes sticking and dragging!!! I am starting to suspect the pistons within the calipers themselves. I think that Quality (expensive) aftermarket parts is going to be my soulition but would like to get some input from some fellow Super Duty owners before I pull that trigger.
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I have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
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I am trying to figure out where the relay would be when i look online for the map of the relay box under the hood it says nothing of a horn relay. I don't have a key fob for the doors to unlock so I wouldn't think its tied to the computer. Should mention nothing happens when you hit the horn also fuse is fine. No power at the actual horn when i hit the steering wheel(horn)....
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Really love my 2013 F550 but the door chime is driving me crazy. On my 2003 f150 you could just drop the column cover and unhook one wire running to the tumbler. So I had a look and found it to be totally different. How to unhook it on this truck?
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Recently removed a plow and wiring harness from my 00 F550 and now my headlights no longer work. The headlight plugs have an adapter that the plow harness plugged in to and it now appears I need some type of end plug on each one to complete the circuit. The problem is the dealer doesn't understand what I need and doesn't think there is such a part out there. Perhaps my thinking is all wrong.
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I bought a new Motorcraft door latch for my F550 because the door latch won't stay latched. You close the door firm and it seats well then pops loose the first bump in the road. I found all kinds of OEM replacment latches all over the internet but nowhere can I find any instructions or videos or any talk of the best way to go about replacing the door latch. I know they wear out from constant use on the drivers side.
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I am looking for the location of the fuel pump relay for my 1999 Ford F550 V10 4WD Gas truck.
I have replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. When the key is turned the pump gets juice and 2 seconds later is not getting juice. No lines are coming into it, so it's not getting up to pressure and shutting off.
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I recently bought a 2007 F-550 bucket truck with a 6.0 Diesel. Noticed the trucks gauge cluster and radio go on and off..
And on top of that the entire truck died on me yesterday suddenly while driving and there was no power (no dome no lights no ignition not even a click completely dead)..
When that happened I was searching for a large battery cable shorted or pinched under the omnivan body and didn't find anything, Removed batteries, charged with in minutes, re installed and everything came back on..
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Just got done with a ball joint replacement on my 2003 F550, everything went together great, just as it should. Until I got to the drivers side hub lock.
I have Mile Marker 449s/s manual hubs. Turn from free to lock and theres this loud clicking sound about halfway to LOCK (passenger side doesn't do this). Hub will stay locked for about 2 rotations, then it unlocks and makes a clicking sound. You cannot turn the hub back to FREE, it gets halfway and stops. I tried forcing it and broke the spring fingers inside. Have a new set on order.
Is this a locking hub issue or an assembly error? I was going to take these steps.
- Take passenger side hub lock off and see if it operates normally or same on drivers side.
- If same, remove axle and re-seat/re-assemble everything again
Anything to specifically check? All the parts went back in, washers were in correct order, outer snap ring is in groove.
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