Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F350 V8 Shaking When Get Between 45 And 55 MPH
Jul 7, 2013
My 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
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I have a '03 F350 that I can't seem to solve the brakes vibrating when applied. Replaced front rotors a couple weeks ago. I still have a vibration when I apply the brakes. What am I missing? I didn't replace the back rotors, but maybe I should have. On the passenger front, the inside pad was almost gone and the outside pad was in good shape. I greased the pins before I replaced the pads the last time, but the inside still wore much faster. I also blew out the rear brake line last week and spent Saturday bending a new line and replacing that so the brakes were bled when I had to replace that. I don't feel the pulsing in the pedal, but the truck shakes pretty good when I hit the brakes. What else should I be checking if the rotors are new and the pads are new and the pins have been lubed and the brakes have been bled?
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Having a somewhat scary problem.....my truck is already a rough ride due to the fabtech lift and the 37's and you get a lot of feedback through the steering wheel. Its a rough ride down the highway but where it gets scary is at lower than highway speeds like 35-45 range. I can hit a bump and it will send the trucl into this insane cavitation that will literally shale the fillings out of your teeth. I cannot tell if it is in the drive wheels or the front wheels. The best way I can describe it is that its like trying to push a buggy in wal mart with a bad caster wheel on it. It feels like you are about to have a wheel fall off or that its broken off a tie rod or something. Then you simply slow down to a stop and you can drive right on like nothing was wrong. The vibration or shaking does not slow down with the speed. I cannot find anything obvious broken or damaged but this thing is getting dangerous to drive.
05 F350 DRW Fabtech 6 inch lift and 37's. 114k miles.
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My 2011 F350 is shaking like a wet dog, all the time, loaded with a trailer and empty. It's the whole truck, not just the front end or rear end. It'll shake a Dr Pepper flat in 10 mins. No one can figure out why. Maybe y'all can think of something.
Here's what we've done
New tires, balanced
Alignment
Replaced ball joints and sway bar
Replaced carrier bearing
Replaced passenger front hub that got mysteriously locked and henceforth destroyed.
Replaced all 4 shocks
Where to look next?? Guess I should mention is 4x4 dually with 177,803 miles.
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I need fixing my 2003 f350 6.0 diesel, I have been working on this truck for a while and still am having problems, here was the original symptoms:
-Hard start or no start on a sunny day
-Rough idle for 10-15 minutes
-Rough shaking in the low RPMs (35 mph)[/COLOR]
-Slow response from the gas pedal
-boost would only get to 14
My dad and I then did many things to the truck in the shop, those things are:
-Air test and replacement of coupling going into oil branches (next to HPOP)
-Replaced EGR valve (no good)
-Replaced ICP sensor (leaking oil)
-Replaced ICP sensor and IPR valve piggtails (due to frayed wires)
-Cleaned Turbo
-Cut MAP sensor hose and reattached it (spliced on the end)
-New battery
-Performed a bubble test and found two bad injectors on passenger side (injectors #5 and #7)
-Cleaned and lubed tops of injectors
-Replaced O rings and copper crush washers on all injectors
-Replaced nipple cup O rings (tight)
-Blew out injector cups
-Bubble tested after injectors put back in (no more bubbles)
-New FICM, EGR cooler and oil cooler were already installed
-Ohm'd main engine wiring harness (good to go)
-Taped up frayed wires on fan clutch connection
-Increased wire gauge on the positive jumper between both batteries
-Sanded each ground on the batteries and engine, cleaned battery clamps, lithium greased connection points.
-Checked fuel for air (no air)
-Checked fuel psi (85 psi, plenty)
-Oil changed
After doing all of this (diagnosing as we fixed each thing) we now fixed many things including the hard/no start problem. Now, for the first three to five minutes:
-It starts right up
-Runs perfectly, no shake and instant response from the gas pedal and turbo
-Boost goes to 28
-ICP is 800-950 on idle
-IPR is 25-26.9% closed
After five minutes however:
-Starts to shake
-IPR % starts to raise
-Received no response from gas pedal (absolutely no power)
This truck has been torn apart like 8 times and I have to do it on my spare time.
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I have an 04 6.0 F250. I am having a shaking between 1500 and 2500 RPM around 45 - 55 MPH. I have no guesses what is calling this, but the truck runs fine otherwise.
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I have a 2004 F350 with the V-10 with a Fleetwood motor home on it. 46000 miles.The fuel pump started acting up and i have low fuel pressure. after a lot of testing i replaced the pump and all the hoses on top of the tank. of course you have to pull the tank to do this.
Nothing was touched to my knowledge that has to do with the ABS system.
After everything was put back together and i started the motor. the ABS light came on as usual during the pre-check then went off, and after a couple of seconds came back on, and stays on. it does this each time its started.
I read the most common problem is the rear speed sensor i tested it and it measured .95 oms so i replace it. the new one measures 1.8 oms.
Light is still on. so today i will be testing the front. to insure they are good. The fuses tested OK. My question is what else should i be checking?
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I have a 2004 F350. I go out to start my vehicle and it may or may not turn over. Other time it starts fine
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On dads 04 f350 the 4wd first wasn't shifting to 4lo. Would do 4hi and 2wd fine. Then motor on t-case went bad. Replaced motor 2wd and 4hi still good still no 4lo. Then just 2wd so we unplugged t-case motor and power probed motor got it to do 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. So we thinking bad dash switch but power probed it and its working fine. So we r thinking VP4C3F-14B128-A/ chassis computer bad just behind/above glovebox. R there any test we can do to confirm its bad? We called local junk yards to see bout getting one, nobody had one. If this is indeed bad where is cheapest get one? What all years use this certain chassis computer??
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Truck started to feel like it was missing here and there. A couple rough starts in the morning and a very potent exhaust smell at startup. Then finally after a couple days of this, it wouldn't start.
At first it would try to turn over and almost did several times, then it degraded to just churning and churning with no close attempts to turning over. No codes thrown when we hooked up the code reader. I've had the IPR go out on me twice, the churning and churning is how it acted when the IPR(s) had gone out.
Towed it home and pulled the IPR, everything looked in order with it. Changed the upper fuel filter and oil/filter in an attempt to rule out the easy stuff. Tried to start it up last night after doing this and it churned and churned for awhile (about 2 minutes), then it almost turned over several times. By this time the batteries were too low to continue. Hooked up the code reader again and still no codes.
I'm planning on charging the batteries and replacing the lower fuel filter today, but not feeling real optimistic that it will do the trick. Any other issues to check for?
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Well long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
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My 04 F350 has a bad shudder when slowing down between 30 and 10 MPH. Not so noticeable at other speeds and almost nothing while speeding up. How to fix?
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The transfer case on my 2004 F350 6.0L 4WD DRW, 230K miles, just blew to pieces Sunday night. See images below. What could cause this?
I just had the front drive shaft rebuilt with new universals and ball. It was making a metallic squealing noise after this.
I noticed that the front drive shaft did not spin freely when parked in nuetral and set for 2WD. I thought the front drive shaft would only engage when in 4WD.
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My 4wd doesn't engage on my 04 powerstroke. The dash light doesn't come on. I replaced the relays, switch, and 4wd module, I checked the fuses, all fuses are good, but fuse 31 doesn't get power to it. The voltage at the relay block reads 12v with the fuses out, but drops to around 7v when they're plugged in. I have no power to the Tcase (.15v).
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I just bought an 04 F350 with the 6.0 diesel. I have the trip computer but it doesn't seem to be working, the screen is just off. Tried the buttons, nothing. Checked the manual, can't find anything. Is there a trick I'm missing? Or is mine broken?
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I have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
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I just bought a 2004 f350 4x4. There is a horrendous clunk coming from under the cab as soon as I steer and at certain rpm while driving straight. I have researched this topic for hours and everyone says sway bar links. Well here's what I have done so far and the truck still has the same terrible clunk. New sway bar links, new sway bar bushings on axle, new front drivers hub, new front passenger hub needle bearing, both front dust seals on axle, greased all ujoints and balljoints, tightened up some bolts for the dual steering stabilizer, and shook the heck out of all other ujoints and the cab mounts and they all seem good...
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My 2004 F350 would not start yesterday, for the second time. I had just been driving it 30 minutes before, but when I tried to start it nothing happened. The dash light came on but nothing else, not even a click. Had to leave it overnight, and this morning it started completely normally. what this might be? It seems kind of like a relay or reset that was cut off and took time to reset itself. The first time it happened, it started up after 20 minutes, but yesterday it still wouldn't after an hour at which point I had to go to work so I don't know what the interval would have been if I could have stuck around and continued trying it.
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I just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
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2004 F350 Lariat Crew Cab. My truck has been repeatedly attempted to be broken into through the keyhole. This time they fully punched it through the door, and now i have a hole where the lock should be.
I researched stuff like jimmi-jammers etc, but for the time being.. I am looking just to pick up a set of handles without keyholes. I have remote-less entry and keypad.
Couple questions... Would rear door handles off a crew cab, fit to the fronts? they look the exact same minus the keyhole.. and this would likely be the easiest to find.
Or... Is there any good websites i can take a look at that will manufacture keyless front driver and passenger side handles? They're textured black, and i would like them to match as best as possible.
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Having an issue with my 04. Wife got in the truck to move it and no dome lights no crank nothing. Swapped the battery for a new one. Still nothing.
I checked all fuses. I literally was just driving it 10 months prior to her getting in it. Said dome came on for a second then shut off. 2004 F350 5.4 ....
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