Having an issue with my 04. Wife got in the truck to move it and no dome lights no crank nothing. Swapped the battery for a new one. Still nothing.
I checked all fuses. I literally was just driving it 10 months prior to her getting in it. Said dome came on for a second then shut off. 2004 F350 5.4 ....
I have 99 f350 single rear wheels 4x4 . I went to start it this morning and it would crank but not start b/c it was cold. I plugged it in and still wouldn't start then it wouldn't even crank. I checked all fuses swapped relays and I have new batteries. The last thing I did was hit on the starter a few times and it started. So I went and bought a new not remand a new starter and put it on and now it won't crank!? I get 12v at the little wire on the selenoid on the fender. So now what?
View 4 RepliesWe just bought a 2000 F350 knowing it has some issues. The #5 fuse (generator/secondary) under the hood consistently blows fuses the second it's inserted, meaning there's a dead short. Truck will crank but not start. As well, theres a 5 amp fuse under the dash, which when inserted, keeps the instrument cluster on as if the key was on, even with no key in the barrel. We cannot hear the fuel pump running, the fuel reset switch is fine, all ignition wires at the column are showing 12 volts at the right times. What could be wrong? I'm a 12 volt specialist, but not a ford tech.
View 6 RepliesSo here's the deal, crank no start its getting fuel. Has base oil pressure and i put a ficm on that test good with a voltage meter key on engine off and cranking. I haven't hand any trouble finding info on this issue so. We can keep picking away. Just cant find anything about this.
A buddy of mine who has been trying to figure it out for me, Got it to start using a starting fluid. And it would run if someone was pushing the gas peddle but wouldn't idle. Or start without the starting fluid.
2003 f-350 had no dash lights and no start or crank. Found battery cable junction on left fender broken fixed, replaced starter. Drove it sunday, went about 15 mi and just shut off. Towed home was a battery, replaced battery, now I have lights but turn key and nothing? Was starting fine, all summer seems like a cold weather issue. Any relays I should be looking for? I was going to check power to started but raining too hard this am ...
View 4 RepliesSo I 2003 6.0 F350 that is a Dually. Been sitting in my yard for about two years now. I turn the key it just clicks and it doesn't crank. The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the whit The starter solenoid is not on the firewall so I use the trick with the battery connected positive straight to the starter with the wire on the engine bay. It cranked for a while and that started ran rough. Then it just died. I did not start again. I did this during winter so the engine have time to cool off it was about below freezing. Done this multiple times and drove up and down in my backyard but not on the road. What could be wrong with it. Either way I put in diesel 911 and more fuel but and I change the filters with Motorcraft OEM filters. Sure that the caps were right.
View 14 RepliesI'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
So I just purchased a 2011 F350 6.7 this week...I've had absolutely no problems until I drove it to the dealer just to get it detailed...I give the salesman my key and he comes back and says it won't start...we tried numerous time to start it...put jump boxes on both batteries and nothing...had full power to all accessories but when attempting to crank it would black out on the dash screen and give me a "stop vehicle" warning....does this deal with security?....also after hassling to get rental for a hour or so,we tried agian and it fired right up?!?...also it started double honking when locking. ..is that due to the hood being up?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
Truck started to feel like it was missing here and there. A couple rough starts in the morning and a very potent exhaust smell at startup. Then finally after a couple days of this, it wouldn't start.
At first it would try to turn over and almost did several times, then it degraded to just churning and churning with no close attempts to turning over. No codes thrown when we hooked up the code reader. I've had the IPR go out on me twice, the churning and churning is how it acted when the IPR(s) had gone out.
Towed it home and pulled the IPR, everything looked in order with it. Changed the upper fuel filter and oil/filter in an attempt to rule out the easy stuff. Tried to start it up last night after doing this and it churned and churned for awhile (about 2 minutes), then it almost turned over several times. By this time the batteries were too low to continue. Hooked up the code reader again and still no codes.
I'm planning on charging the batteries and replacing the lower fuel filter today, but not feeling real optimistic that it will do the trick. Any other issues to check for?
I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 F350 would not start yesterday, for the second time. I had just been driving it 30 minutes before, but when I tried to start it nothing happened. The dash light came on but nothing else, not even a click. Had to leave it overnight, and this morning it started completely normally. what this might be? It seems kind of like a relay or reset that was cut off and took time to reset itself. The first time it happened, it started up after 20 minutes, but yesterday it still wouldn't after an hour at which point I had to go to work so I don't know what the interval would have been if I could have stuck around and continued trying it.
View 6 RepliesIt's a 2001 F-350 Crew cab short bed. Got it from the second owner which had a large file from the original owner on documentation and maintenance records. Truck has 280k, tranny about 80k. Question I have is, I kinda thought it would "feel" more powerful then it does. Temp got to about 35f last night after work and it cranked for about 15-20 sec before it started (yes I let the "Wait to start" light go out).
Then pulling out of work it would hardly get out of its own way. Does this sound normal? When it is warmed up it goes ok, but still I figured when the turbo winds up it would feel a bit "peppier". I get its a diesel and not a hot rod but I was expecting a bit more pep.
MODS on the truck that I can tell: AFE cold intake, 5"? exhaust turbo back, about 4" lift. Stock PCM. In cab controlled rear air bags, nice deck with back up camera.
2015 F350 6.2, 4 door 8' bed FX4...... 17,200 miles.
This morning when outside to start it (nice sunny morning) and turned the key and all the dash lights went on and also went crazy. Said it had all kind of problems on the dash, Trac system, Over heating and so on. The starter did not crank over at all. Tried this about 8 times in 45 minutes, no worky. Call Ford, they towed it to the dealer. I last drove it 2 days ago. All stock, no programmer.
I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the V10 4x4. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. I stopped put the truck into park and it wouldn't crank. The dash lights up and everything else works but the truck will not crank. I continued to attempt to start it and eventually it turned over and ran. It has been doing this intermittently for a couple months but never this bad. I've taken it to mechanics and nobody has been able to rectify.
View 3 RepliesI've got a 2005 f350 with a 6.0 starts when it wants. I have checked the ficm and 48 volts when key is on and cranking! How do I know if my icp is bad? Some days it will start no problem but most days it will just crank over. When it does start i run it for a while shut it off and try to restart it and it wont!
View 3 RepliesIt's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
View 5 RepliesI have a 04 f350 6.0L truck ran great all day today then out of the blue it started shacking and lost power then i plugged my tunner in and code popped up po284.
View 6 RepliesI have an '06 F350 dually with a 6.0 diesel. I bought this used about 5 years ago and for the most part have loved it. i would always smile on the inside when i heard people bash the 6.0...i thought i got lucky....until today.
140k miles. recent oil change. all is swell...until this morning. Stick in key and turn it. glow plug indicator comes on...all lights come on for a few second....wrench, abs, dtc etc....wrench shuts off...glow plug light comes on...4 or 5 seconds later wrench light comes back on....turn key and NO CRANK.
All fuses are fine...starter cranks if i jump the solenoid...but it won't start. Miles to empty and everything else is just dashes hit the OBD and it says "engine sensor data error"/ "trans temp error" ...
Last night my truck wouldnt start. Drove fine all day, started up bunch of different times. Went to go home at night. No crank, everything else works, hear the fuel pump prime windows radio everything. smacked the starter a few times but no change. Checked the fuses and relays, all appear good. So im guessing the starter or the starter solenoid, but I cant find one on the truck just something that looks like it could be it attached to the starter.
View 9 RepliesI've been having sporadic starting issues with my truck since the fall. I had the spark plugs changed but that did not work. The hard starts usually occur when the engine is hot....after filling gas or just running into the grocery store. The engine seems to turn over slowly the first try and won't start. The second or third try the engine turns over normally and the truck usually starts.
I just got back from a 90 minute drive and shut off the truck for 5 minutes and now it won't even turn over. My thought is that it can't be the battery....its been charging for 90 minutes. Headlights are strong, wipers work fast, fan blows hard. That being said I think alternator or battery can be ruled out?
Where do I look next? Starter? Is there a starter solenoid that could be defective?