Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F350 - Horrendous Clunk Coming From Under The Cab
Sep 1, 2014
I just bought a 2004 f350 4x4. There is a horrendous clunk coming from under the cab as soon as I steer and at certain rpm while driving straight. I have researched this topic for hours and everyone says sway bar links. Well here's what I have done so far and the truck still has the same terrible clunk. New sway bar links, new sway bar bushings on axle, new front drivers hub, new front passenger hub needle bearing, both front dust seals on axle, greased all ujoints and balljoints, tightened up some bolts for the dual steering stabilizer, and shook the heck out of all other ujoints and the cab mounts and they all seem good...
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Ive got a 04 f350 that after u shift into 4hi or 4lo when u accelerate it it makes loud clunk noise in fwd or reverse hi or lo. With hubs unlocked it still clunks. Have checked, wheel bearings, axle U-joints, and driveshaft joints all good. So I am thinking I've got issues in t-case. Popped drain plug out and wow that dex merc 4 looks nasty. So thinking I need exploded view of transfer case.
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I have a 2005 king ranch and have a clunk coming from the back over bumps/heaves in the road. It doesn't happen all the time but often enough. I just replaced the shocks, that worked a little but didn't solve the problem. Now thinking rear sway bar end links? Anything I can check/inspect?
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I drive a 2006 Ford F350 4x4 Crew Cab. I think the radius arm bushings on my truck are bad. I get a clunk going over bumps on the left side in the front end.
I'm assuming it is the bushing in the rear of the radius arm, but I haven't taken it apart yet because I want to have the parts in hand. I ordered a bushing, part number 5C3Z3B203AA. But it looks too small when I hold it up to it. What is the part numbers for the radius arm bushings?
Or am I looking at the wrong thing for the clunking in the front end? I just did the ball joints with Moog both sides top and bottom. The shock bushings look alright. I have replaced the front sway bar bushings thinking that was it. What else could it be?
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I just got my truck back from the dealership where they said they tightened the nut on my pitman arm and now when turning either left or right when I approach full lock there is a massive pop or clunk that comes from the steering box. I have crawled under the truck and watched and felt everything as the wheels turn and the draglink, tie rod, sway bar links and cv joints as well as the front drive shaft are all fine. The noise is definitely coming from the top end of the pitman arm or higher. What it could be or how to fix it? I have an 03 6.0l f250 with a 4 inch lift all new springs and new sway bar
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I had a pretty good clunk going on and found the passenger tie rod was shot. The rest of the steer components looked fine. Fixed it and still get a nice bunch of clunks. Went over the steering again with someone rotating the wheel and didn't notice any crazy movements. The drag link twisted a bit but the joints looked solid compared to the tie rod which was completely shot.
So I decided to dig into it today. Looked again and nothing. So I took it into my back yard to drive over some humps left from stump grinding. Clunk, clunk, clunk. I stuck my head out the window and wouldn't you know it the sound seems to be coming from the rear! Took a pry bar to parts like the sway bar links, shocks, etc.... can't detect anything. Maybe a u-joint? Gotta dig in I guess.
Also my rear springs creak like nothing I've ever heard. Dirt roads it's just creak, creak, creak.
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Every once in a while, while driving my 06 350 SRW at slow speeds, I hear a grinding noise coming from the left side of the truck. It is almost like a winding grinding noise if that makes sense. It will grind slow to a stop, and then I hear a clunk.
This is a very intermittent problem. The tires are completely shot on the truck, and I thought that would be it, but considering it is intermittent and the clunk I hear as I come to a stop I figured it could be it.
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I have an 07 350 6.0 was plowing last night toward the end of the night i herd a popping coming off the front end of the truck. My esof does not work so I manually lock the hubs and then turn on the 4x4 from the dash when I want 4x4, ok so after the few pops I heard while slightly turning I straightened out and all seem ok till I pulled outta the parking lot started driving and i had a noise kinda sounded like driving on a flat while at speeds at around 25-35mph so I got out unlocked the hubs drove it and it drives fine unlocked. so what I've done so far is while hubs unlocked climbed under it spun the front driveshaft by hand and spins freely. When the truck is rolling with no issues i locked the hubs left the switch in 2wd turned the wheel and started to make a turn and POP loud and shakes the truck violently it feel likes the steering and the truck is binding when trying to turn.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now you say no it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
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2001 f350 7.3 diesel and I come up with the codes for upper and lower dual generator fault. I have only one alternator not the dual.. I checked the gauge and it is running at 14 consistently. But the service engine soon light keeps coming on...I clear them and they come right back... Alternator is only 2 years old and not a rmf..
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My issue, just purchased f250, 2004, v 10, manual transmission, state vehicle with 32,000 miles but was a plow vehicle for localRMV lot, that said, great shape and runs strong but I get a clunk and shutter when I am in reverse and only when I push down clutch before stopping. Doesn't do it starting forward or reverse, only reverse and when I push clutch in before stopping. Did have a friend drive and looks like the transfer case is moving, as if mounts or bolts are loose. Does this make sense and could bad slip joints be putting excess torque on ?!?!?
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I have a 2012 F350 and the interior lights and cargo light do not turn on when I open my doors. The maps lights work if I manually turn them on. Why this happens and how to correct this issue?
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I've got a 2011 F-350, when i'm on the driving over 60 mph i hear this humming or buzzing noise coming from around the dash. It kind of comes and goes depending on the wind direction or if I'm passing a semi. Thinking it may be coming from around the windshield seal.
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I have a 2002 ford f350 triton 5.4 V8. I just put front brake pads on my truck today. Started driving around and i could smell burning brakes. Stopped and alot of smoke was coming from my brakes on my front passenger side but nothing from the front drivers side. Replaced all the brake pads on the front. What is making them so hot?
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With the tranny in neutral and clutch out is when it is the loudest. With the clutch in their is 0 noise. The sound is a spinning clacketing sound best I can describe. The clutch is 2yrs old and was installed by a local shop using all OEM parts, the fluid level is perfect and looks brand new. The sound has come on gradually over the past 6 months but now can be felt thru the floor at the top of the gears as a rumble. The funny thing is that their are no performance issues like grinding,popping out of gear,hard shifting,etc.
This is not rolling gear mesh it is very loud clacking clunking sound coming directly from the tranny, not the transfer case, nor rears or u joints. This is standing still. Sometimes it will be a little less loud if I roll to a stop in neutral with the clutch out as opposed to gearing down to a stop push clutch in goto neutral and letting clutch out.
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I have a 2002 F350 with the triton 5.4. For the last week it has been running like crap. I just did my plugs about a month ago. I don't know if it's a miss fire or bad fuel or I don't know what it could be. It's a popping sound coming from my exhaust and when it happens I lose power. It happens off and on. One second it will run fine and normal and the next runs bad. What it could be. Today I just changed my fuel filter and added STP octane boost and fuel injector cleaner. Haven't seen a difference yet.
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So yesterday we were towing our camper home from a weekend trip. We were pulling on the interstate at about 70mph, up a slight grade into a strong headwind. The outside temp was about 85 degrees, so not too hot out. After about 5 miles I got antifreeze sprayed on my windshield, coming from under the left front corner of the hood. The water temp held at about 220 degrees where it usually runs when towing hard but the oil temperature steadily worked up to about 240 degrees. I limped to the nearest place to stop and pulled over to let it cool down.
After it cooled down I added water to bring it back up to the minimum mark. We were 200 miles from home on a Sunday so I stopped in the local Wal Mart and picked up a can of stop leak and poured that in then we hit the road again. About 10 miles down the road the water again sprayed onto the windshield and the oil temp came up, this time hitting about 260. The water temp stayed between 218 and 220, once working up to 225, so I slowed down and the temps came down. I was able to creep along and made it 50 miles to a relatives house where I let it cool again and added more water.
When we hit the road again we made it about 10 miles and the oil temp had worked back up to 240, water temp stayed around 218 so I stopped at my parents house and dropped the camper. We drove the 100 miles home from there without the camper. The water temp stayed around 195 and the oil temp held at 212. If I got over 60mph the oil temp came up, but keeping it under 60 the temp held. So, what is wrong with my truck? Is the oil temp up because I was a gallon and a half low on water? The most I had to put in was a gallon and a half. Did I plug the oil cooler up with the stop leak?
The oil temp when towing has always ran 12 to 18 degrees higher than the water temp. I forgot to add, 2005 F350 with the 6.0 diesel. 240,000 miles on the truck. I have owned it just under a year and don't know a lot about it. I don't know if it has had any work done to it prior to my owning it, the antifreeze looks orange or yellow colored.
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I have a 2004 F350 with the V-10 with a Fleetwood motor home on it. 46000 miles.The fuel pump started acting up and i have low fuel pressure. after a lot of testing i replaced the pump and all the hoses on top of the tank. of course you have to pull the tank to do this.
Nothing was touched to my knowledge that has to do with the ABS system.
After everything was put back together and i started the motor. the ABS light came on as usual during the pre-check then went off, and after a couple of seconds came back on, and stays on. it does this each time its started.
I read the most common problem is the rear speed sensor i tested it and it measured .95 oms so i replace it. the new one measures 1.8 oms.
Light is still on. so today i will be testing the front. to insure they are good. The fuses tested OK. My question is what else should i be checking?
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My 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
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I have a 2004 F350. I go out to start my vehicle and it may or may not turn over. Other time it starts fine
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On dads 04 f350 the 4wd first wasn't shifting to 4lo. Would do 4hi and 2wd fine. Then motor on t-case went bad. Replaced motor 2wd and 4hi still good still no 4lo. Then just 2wd so we unplugged t-case motor and power probed motor got it to do 2wd, 4hi, and 4lo. So we thinking bad dash switch but power probed it and its working fine. So we r thinking VP4C3F-14B128-A/ chassis computer bad just behind/above glovebox. R there any test we can do to confirm its bad? We called local junk yards to see bout getting one, nobody had one. If this is indeed bad where is cheapest get one? What all years use this certain chassis computer??
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