Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F350 - Glow Plug Errors On Cylinder 2 / 4 And 8
Dec 20, 2013
I have an 04 F350 with Glow Plug errors on cylinder 2, 4 and 8. I have already replaced the harness on that side because the old one was gunked up pretty bad. Still have the same issue. Does this sound like a GPCM issue to ya'll?
AE pulled the following codes:
P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit
P0674 Cylinder 4 Glow Plug Circuit
P0678 Cylinder 8 Glow Plug Circuit
Not having issues starting but it rarely gets into the 30's here in FL.
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I have a new f350 with 1500 miles and the check engine light came on. Took it to dealer he said it was the DEF heater. He replaced that part and then it came back on and now its the GLOW PLUG RELAY MODULE. Now for the good part. Ford told dealer that I could drive the truck with the CEL on. Ford stated that they were remanufacturing the glow plug relay and that is was not available at this time and not sure when it will be ready. I filed a complaint with ford, but with little success. Not sure what else to do about this issue.
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I have a 2003, f-350, 6.0L with a K&N Filter. While driving the glow plug light comes on and the power is shut down. After a few seconds the power comes back and it won't do it for a while. No codes. I replaced all of the glow plugs and wires. What's causing this?
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Okay, I just bought the truck (all stock except for straight pipe and cai). Nothing bullet proofed yet. It has 125,xxx miles on it and for the 4 months I had it I had no issue. Well now while idling or driving the glow plug light will flash on then off and stay off. I'll have no power and after a few minute it'll die on me. But start right back up. Is this a harness issue? 2006 6.0.....
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i was replacing my glow plug relay and my ratchet hit one of the small wires and sparked. i went in the truck and I heard a really fast clicking noise at the fuse box. I opened it up a very top small relay was the one clicking. i replaced it and it still clicks. the truck is TOTALLY DEAD no power to anything. I checked ALL the fuses under dash and under the hood, they are all good. both batts are at 12. 9 volts. what would kill the whole truck like this. is there a main fuse somewhere? I really need to get this going tonight. it's gonna rain all day tomorrow and this is my only Tow Truck for my business.
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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2004 ford f 350 super duty, 6.0 Liters international diesel, 4door, 4x4, long bed, dual rear wheels. Over 200,000 mileage. I have no power to the trucks brake lights and no power to the tow plugs trailer brake lights, which is the center left and the center right tow plug blade style contacts, while using a 12 volt test light! All fuses are showing good and I replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal, and I also replaced the towing plug with the short wire and connector at rear of truck which is under the rear bumper and the frame mounted tow hitch bar
- Are there any relays that control the truck brake lights and the trailer brake lights ?
- If yes where are the brake relays exactly?
- Have I missed or not done something else to correct the problem?
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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1995 7.3L f350 400k mi developed 1poss 2 cyl miss does not change after warm up and will die after 10 min .
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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Went to change the plugs on an 02 f350, the bolt holding the plug wire boot on doesn't seem to fit any standard size socket. 7 is too big, 6 is too small. 1/4 is too small, 9/32 is too big.
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I picked up a 2013 F250 back in Sept. currently about 5k miles. I've had in the shop twice. Once for a loud moonroof vibration when idling and just recently another for a PCM update(Engine light came on).
Here's the problem...
Something odd happened when I drove about a 1/4 mile... The dashboard lit up like a christmas tree and gave every error known to man. All dashboard lights came on, parking break, engine light, etc. Then the computer dash gave an AdvanceTrac Error, Oil pressure low and something else I can't recall. All my gauges went dead, including the Speedometer. Mind you, this was while driving... The only gauge working was the fuel gauge.
Turned the truck off, back on, everything works as normal. The truck has not showed any issues since (2 days of short distance drives).
I called the Service Dept and spoke with my guy. He never heard of this before and kind of wrote it off... Said, they won't be able to figure out unless it happens while they have it. This doesn't sound right to me.
My nose is pointing at the PCM update or a possible grounding issue.
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I have been having some inconsistency with my transmission in my 2005 F350. I bought it used 2 months ago and have had the low/tow overdrive light blinking. a month ago I removed the pan and changed the filter in the transmission. I had a friend run the diagnostic test and found transmission solenoid code as well as both cat. converters as well as my Number 8 cylinder misfiring... I pulled the transmission pan and filter to find what appears to be 7 solenoids? Where to start?
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I bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
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I have a 2004 F350 with the V-10 with a Fleetwood motor home on it. 46000 miles.The fuel pump started acting up and i have low fuel pressure. after a lot of testing i replaced the pump and all the hoses on top of the tank. of course you have to pull the tank to do this.
Nothing was touched to my knowledge that has to do with the ABS system.
After everything was put back together and i started the motor. the ABS light came on as usual during the pre-check then went off, and after a couple of seconds came back on, and stays on. it does this each time its started.
I read the most common problem is the rear speed sensor i tested it and it measured .95 oms so i replace it. the new one measures 1.8 oms.
Light is still on. so today i will be testing the front. to insure they are good. The fuses tested OK. My question is what else should i be checking?
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My 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
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I have a 2004 F350. I go out to start my vehicle and it may or may not turn over. Other time it starts fine
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