Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F350 - Door Handle Replacement
Jul 19, 2014
2004 F350 Lariat Crew Cab. My truck has been repeatedly attempted to be broken into through the keyhole. This time they fully punched it through the door, and now i have a hole where the lock should be.
I researched stuff like jimmi-jammers etc, but for the time being.. I am looking just to pick up a set of handles without keyholes. I have remote-less entry and keypad.
Couple questions... Would rear door handles off a crew cab, fit to the fronts? they look the exact same minus the keyhole.. and this would likely be the easiest to find.
Or... Is there any good websites i can take a look at that will manufacture keyless front driver and passenger side handles? They're textured black, and i would like them to match as best as possible.
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I have a 1999 F350 and the passenger side front door suddenly will not open with the inner handle but it will open if I roll down the window and open it from the outside. The inside seems like it is locked but the locks are all working fine and all the other doors are working just fine .....
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My '99 Super Duty does NOT have power windows; old school cranks. The door panel(s) are "no frilz", no storage pockets. I want to know if it's possible to get panels that DO have pockets and will "fit" my crank handles?
I could always just drill a hole into a door panel that has the pockets for the window crank, but, they all seem to come with power window setups (opening for all the power switches). Also, where I can get rugs to cover the floor - I just have a rubbery/plastic surface.
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Ok so long story short, my Viper 2 way alarm, instead of the brain being wired to each of the 4 doors individually, the installer ran 1 wire to the dome light. seems to work fine as far as arming/disarming/locking/unlocking, but since the dome light stays on for 10 seconds or whatever after the door is shut.
When I arm it, the 2 way remote says "door open" because the light is still on so it thinks a door is open. this eventually times out and all the sensors arm, but theres a long delay. it arms fine and no alerts pop up if i lock the doors first from the outside keypad on the door, making the lights go off, then hit arm on the viper, and everything is good to go.
can i change it so no matter what, as SOON as i shut the door, the light goes off? i want there to be NO delay, if possible. if not, i may need to just have the installer run a wire to each door and take the single run to the dome light off, as it is sorta annoying to me.
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I have a 08 F350 CC with the factory fog lights. One of them has burnt out. Do I replace just the bulb or the entire unit? Is there a part number?
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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Question. My Son borrowed my 2006 4-wheel F-350 and broke down in Vermont. 8 hrs from me. Told me he heard some noises from the left front and then the abs light came on. I had him jack up the front and check for bearing play in the left front. Alas, He said between 1/4" and 1/2" of play. I bought the new hub and bearing assembly to drive up there with tomorrow morning. The locking hub will come right off. I just replaced them 4 months ago. I will be bringing a crap load of tools, but anything specific i should bring? I wont have torches so I am hoping the hub will brake free.
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2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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So loving my new to me truck. Only has 140K on it. But one thing that bugs me is that with the doors closed tight, when I drive over bumps, they sound like they are not closed. Makes you feel like they will fly open. But when checked they are closed all the way. Is there an adjustment or something that can correct this?
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My power door locks just started acting up. The driver's side switch will not do anything. The passenger's side switch will lock both doors, but it will not unlock them. Is this a switch issue or the actuator? I am assuming the issue is on the drivers side only and am leaning towards the drivers side switch. With that said, I read about a lot of issues with actuators on these truck which makes me think it may be the actuator? Would the doors still lock if the actuator was toast? If it would, why doesn't the driver's side switch work? I tried replacing the driver's side actuator but it made no difference. I also swapped the driver's and passenger's switches and it does the same thing. The passenger locks only and the driver does nothing.
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I have a new to me 05 F350 dually with 6.0. When I open the door with the key the alarm goes off and the truck won't start. How do I shut this off so I can get in the truck with the key. I can't just leave the door unlocked all the time. It has the key less entry, but I have not set new numbers yet, and if I give the keys to a valet, I don't want to give them the door code too.
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I picked up a 2014 F350 CC a couple months ago and have finally driven it in the evening. I went to turn on the first row map lamps and the light did not illuminate. I could turn it on with all of the interior lights, but not just a single map lamp. It also works when the door is opened or the RKE unlocks the truck.
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I have a 2006 F350 CCLB FX4. Is there a way to allow the running/parking lights to come on when I open the door like my dad's 2012? I don't have any roof/clearance lights yet, I'm a little on the fence about drilling holes in my roof but it seems the truck should have them, especially being an F350.
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2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
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I have a 2013 F350 SD Lariat with AC recirculation/fresh air door is not operating correctly. I have had it at dealer three times for many weeks and they cannot solve issue. The recirc/fresh air door will not stay in the closed position, it either stays wide open or gets stopped partially open or doesn't respond until multiple pushes on the recirc button. The LCD display AC settings are lighted and checked, and the light on lower panel is also lighted showing it should be closed to outside air but is not. The dealer changed the door control motor, that didn't work, they take dash completely off and replace the whole fresh air assembly, didn't work, changed the module in the bezel and still does the same thing. I have complained since new but only until I showed them they attempted to fix and cannot get it to work correctly. I live in AZ its hot and it kills my AC plus having to smell all the outside air issues..
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I have a 2012 SD Reg cab 350XLT, I am installing the premium sound tweeters on the door pillar. Looking for the diagram for the big plug that connects all the door stuff to the truck body? I need to find the tweeter wires, or figure out another way to jump the gap from the door to the body.
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I have a 2004 F350 with the V-10 with a Fleetwood motor home on it. 46000 miles.The fuel pump started acting up and i have low fuel pressure. after a lot of testing i replaced the pump and all the hoses on top of the tank. of course you have to pull the tank to do this.
Nothing was touched to my knowledge that has to do with the ABS system.
After everything was put back together and i started the motor. the ABS light came on as usual during the pre-check then went off, and after a couple of seconds came back on, and stays on. it does this each time its started.
I read the most common problem is the rear speed sensor i tested it and it measured .95 oms so i replace it. the new one measures 1.8 oms.
Light is still on. so today i will be testing the front. to insure they are good. The fuses tested OK. My question is what else should i be checking?
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My 2004 F350 6.0L v8 has a weird shake when I get between 45 and 55 mph. Doesn't feel like its the tires, feel like the engine. I think I might have the #5 glo plug out. Is that it or could something else be wrong? If it is this how bad is it to drive on.
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I have a 2004 F350. I go out to start my vehicle and it may or may not turn over. Other time it starts fine
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