Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F350 - Brake Line Fittings Are SAE Or Metric
Dec 9, 2016
Need to know if the brake line fittings are SAE or metric? Mine blew a leak on the line that runs behind the gas tank on the drivers side frame. It's a 2004 5.4l f 350 4 x 4, 4 wheel disc brakes...
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2004 ford f 350 super duty, 6.0 Liters international diesel, 4door, 4x4, long bed, dual rear wheels. Over 200,000 mileage. I have no power to the trucks brake lights and no power to the tow plugs trailer brake lights, which is the center left and the center right tow plug blade style contacts, while using a 12 volt test light! All fuses are showing good and I replaced the brake switch at the brake pedal, and I also replaced the towing plug with the short wire and connector at rear of truck which is under the rear bumper and the frame mounted tow hitch bar
- Are there any relays that control the truck brake lights and the trailer brake lights ?
- If yes where are the brake relays exactly?
- Have I missed or not done something else to correct the problem?
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I have heard that the front brakes are separate, and if the rear brakes have a leak and the line is empty, the fronts should still work. Is this likely to be true? If I drive the truck will I be able to stop with the fronts alone (assuming they will still work?)
I plan to drop the truck off late tonight when there is likely to be no traffic, but thought I would ask.
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First, I am fortunate that I was only going 25 mph when some turned in front of me causing me to slam on the brakes. The pedal went to the floor, but did slow the truck enough to miss the jerk. Had I been on the highway, it would have been very bad.
Anyway, what I found is still hard for me to believe for two reasons. It find it hard to believe it failed, but more important that I am getting the last national inventory of 2 of the 3 lines in this picture (according to my Ford dealer).
The three lines are almost directly under the front end of the master cylinder between the block and frame. These are as I found them. The larger one goes to the rear feeding both rear brakes while the two smaller run to the front brakes. The spring looking part below is just a plastic protector. The line which failed goes to the front left.
I think anyone with a 2005 SuperDuty which uses the same or similar parts should take a very close look at the flex sections. The parts I have ordered are: 6C3Z-2B523-BA, 6C3Z-2263-BA, and 6C3Z-2264-BA (rear, right, and left).
How long a manufacture is required to maintain inventory? I thought 7 years, but someone suggested 17. I'm at 8 years, but I would have expected more than 1 each of the fronts to be available. Do they changed parts on the '06 or '07?
My 350 spent 2 winters in the Chicago area and has been resting in Florida since 2006. No work was done in this area, but the closest work was the main fuel pump (frame mounted) replaced 2 years ago, but that is almost 2 feet to the rear.
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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Had the rear passeneger side brake line burst today in rush hour traffic ..wasn't much fun. Is it a easy to do it yourself deal ...it is a 2003 f250 v10 triton .
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I noticed yesterday that my tire on the driver's side has rubbed a flat spot on the rubber brake hose. I bent the metal tubing so that it doesn't rub any more, but should this be of great concern? Obviously I'd hate for it to rupture, but it looks as though it's not too bad.
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I have a 2000 dually and the brake line that runs the frame rail finally rusted through. It runs on the same side as the fuel tank. Is it easier to leave the old one in and run a new one along side it? I sure hate to think that I'll have to drop the tank for this.
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My 2000 SD has a brake line that rusted through. The one that runs along the drivers side frame rail. So I need to get new line to replace it. Since I am nowhere near my truck right now, what is the size of the steel line?
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I made a bone head mistake and crunched the steel brake line between the rear axle and the passenger side sway bar mount. Truck is a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3. I would like to go to the auto parts store, get bulk steel brake line and bend it myself. But, I don't know what size the line is or what size the fittings are. Whatare the sizes???
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So I'm away from home on vacation also away from my tools. Any ways my front drivers side line busted almost causing me to crash earlier today in my 2006 F250 6.0 diesel 4x4. So basically my question is: what tools are needed to do this job? I've already picked up the part now tomorrow morning I will be changing the part...
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so while replacing the rear brake lines in my 2001 F-250. / 5.4, the flex line that drops from the frame bolts to the axle through the axle breather threaded vent line. The friggin thing crumbled on me and now I can't find a replacement for it. Where I can get it or what it's actual name / part number is so I can call the Ford dealer and hope it's not obsoleted?
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Have a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
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I have a 99 f-350 , which i bought recently and either the calibers are froze up in the rear or the cable looks too tight.. Is there any adjustment.... Every place i looked it seems to be none..... on my old 1988. Icould adjust it where the 2 rear cables joined the 1.... Am I missing something or cut the 1 main cable and add a turn buckle....
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So this is my major problem, leaving for a camping trip tomorrow afternoon. It's just 15 miles away, easy flat drive. What has happened is the trans line coming out of the bottom of radiator is leaking next to the fitting about an 1/8 ' out, So I can't cut off and splice in hose for the trip. I worked on it for about an hour, rusted on, tried some heat and now have some PB Blast on it and all I am doing is starting to round off the head of fitting. Is there any way to bypass this just to get the camper to campground and then get to a shop while we are gone Don't care if I have to splice and cut, will get new lines later.
2004 f250SD 5.4 83000miles
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I recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.
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Any good info on front brake replacement parts to get better braking out of these beasts? My pads are now needing replacement but I would like to get better performance than that of factory parts....
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I'm putting new brake pas on my front and I want to know what is the best type to put on there. I ave a 2006 F-350 Dually.
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At low speeds, I notice a squeel sound in all four wheels. Ford tells me that it is due to the type of metallic pads they use and is essentially brake dust noise that warrants no repair.
Any after market pads that are good quality for towing heavy loads, yet aren't metallic in composition? For instance, are porcelin pads a good choice.
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my dads front drivers brake caliper was dragging so last Thursday he had the local Ford dealer install a new one WHY i don't know since i always work on everything of ours plus my friends Fords. Today he said he pushed the brake and it went to the floor then he let up and pushed it again and they worked?? I haven't looked into it yet but the dealer cant look until Friday morning so my dad asked me to do it today after work..... what should i check for? leaking brake line, maybe air in the system still?
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