Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F350 - 4x4 Hubs Always Needs To Be Locked In
Sep 5, 2013
Well long story short, I had the the factory hubs in my 04 f-350 and I was driving down the road and it started making this horrible popping noise. So I pulled over and couldn't find anything and just curiosity locked in the hubs and all was fine. Made me think my hubs were bad, so I went and bought the warren premium hubs, installed them. Went for a drive and still the same noise is there when they are in free spin. But once they are locked in its fine. What this could be? Wheel bearings?
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Ok so some one locked my hubs and put the truck in 4x4 4low i assume my aunt was driving it, truck wouldn't shift from 2 to 3rd is this normal since its in 4low. The shifter also seems pretty stiff and 4wheel isn't used much if there a way to know if 3rd gear toon a crap? Trans fluid seems fine not dirty or burnt...
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2008 F350 hubs wont stay locked in when in auto position. everything stays locked while in manual and 4x4 works fine, but in auto the hubs wont stay locked while spinning. I was trying to find the problem when i noticed that one hub stays locked all the time and the other locks and unlocks as it should but it wont stay locked while spinning. My question is do I have two bad hubs or is their a leak that wont let the hub stay locked? Also on the hub that wont unlock is this a leak problem as well or a internal problem?
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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But on my 2000 SD V10 the hubs are worn I just cant find which way to turn them to auto ?
I'm getting popping and such so I think I'm locked while turning.
Also.... IS there a way to check the COPS with a multimeter? I think I got a bad one.
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Had to make a sharp circular turn last night in a parking lot, with the steering turned to full-lock...noticed a very audible clunking or clicking noise during the turn...went away after full-lock turning was released. My hubs are locked in...but I was told there was no issue with leaving them locked in, even during the summer. And there shouldn't be...4x4 disengaged, of course. Must have been the u-joints clicking / clunking? Problem?
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Just got done with a ball joint replacement on my 2003 F550, everything went together great, just as it should. Until I got to the drivers side hub lock.
I have Mile Marker 449s/s manual hubs. Turn from free to lock and theres this loud clicking sound about halfway to LOCK (passenger side doesn't do this). Hub will stay locked for about 2 rotations, then it unlocks and makes a clicking sound. You cannot turn the hub back to FREE, it gets halfway and stops. I tried forcing it and broke the spring fingers inside. Have a new set on order.
Is this a locking hub issue or an assembly error? I was going to take these steps.
- Take passenger side hub lock off and see if it operates normally or same on drivers side.
- If same, remove axle and re-seat/re-assemble everything again
Anything to specifically check? All the parts went back in, washers were in correct order, outer snap ring is in groove.
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Having an issue w/ my 00 550. When I lock in the hubs there is instantly a noise, More of a squealing then a grinding. The truck goes in and out of 4x4 no problem and the noise is there locked in 4x4 and not locked in, as long as the hubs are locked in. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the 4x4 driveshaft but there is no noticeable play in the u-joints or the u-joints in the front axle. I did notice when I spin the 4x4 shaft by hand the passenger side joint spins slower then the driver, not sure if that's normal or could be the problem.
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I just purchased an F-350 with manual locking hubs. I am unsure if I can keep these locked in for part time four wheel driving or I need to unlock them each time I go back to two wheel drive?
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I drove my pickup on mostly dry pavement the other day with it in 4WD and the hubs locked. I got a bit of shimmy/vibration which quit after about a mile. When I got back on ice, the 4WD wasn't working. I assumed the transfer case or locking hubs had failed. Today I got it up on jack stands, put it in 4WD, and locked the hubs. Everything seems fine. What might have happened when I couldn't get 4WD to function.
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I have a 2005 f350 with the power stroke I went through the hole vacuum system all new hubs, seals, vacuum actuator and fixed it all now I'm having the reverse problems everyone has my hubs are locked all the time as soon as I plug in the vacuum actuator the transfer case is still in 2wd and will switch 4x4 and work and disengage but the hubs are always in unless I unplug the actuator ...
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I was using 4x4 High the other day and it was working just fine. Now today, I was at my first parking lot to plow and used the ESOF to shift into 4x4 High and it did not engage with the hubs being in auto mode. The lights on the dash show up indicating that I am, but I am still in 2wd.
If I manually lock the hubs, it engages 4wd high. I tried the same thing using the ESOF to switch over to 4x4 low and it does NOT engage either.
I also noticed that heater blower was switching over to full defrost even though I had it set on the floor setting (manual heat climate *****).
Does this sound like a vacuum leak? I haven't had a chance to test the lines yet. Btw, this is my second work truck and not the one listed in my signature below. It's a 2006 f-350 6.0 xlt.
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I have a 2008 F350 and my automatic hubs won't work, also when I turn the AC on there is heat coming out of one side of the vents. I am assuming this is a vacuum leak somewhere but my vacuum pump doesn't run steady? I thought if there is a vacuum leak then your pump should run steady? The 4X4 works fine by locking in the hubs
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My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
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My 2010 F350 shudders when turning right. From what I read it could be the auto locking hubs not dis-engaging or sticking in the locked position. Tutorials show it's pretty easy to pull the auto locking Hub out taking out the three screws holding it in place. My questions is what type of grease do I need to apply to the auto locking hub once I have them out and determine that is what the issue is?
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The steering wheel is locked on my 99 F-350. I messed around with the stupid thing for quite a while this evening and it won't budge! I need it to haul hay tomorrow....
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Yesterday while traveling about 30mph and starting into a slight left turn the steering wheel locked, when the brake pedal was applied it was rock hard and would not engage braking resulting in a single vehicle crash, no injuries. 8300 miles...
How would I make Ford aware of this incident and get them involved? Is it likely that such events may have been logged somehow in the computer? The truck is at our collision repair shop waiting for an insurance adjuster to inspect.
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We have a 2009 F350 that the engine is now locked up. Anyhow my question is can a 2001 Triton V10 interchange with what was a 2009 Triton V10 both 6.8L...
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel 7.3 automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on? Maybe a bad ECM.
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So I have a 99 F-350 XL, 6.8 2WD, got 268K on it and it's been a great truck, hasn't ever given problem until last June it killed out a PCM, hydrolocked the engine and sent a connecting rod out the oil pan, so I swapped the engine and replaced the PCM and everything has been great, everything that it's equipped with works great, it's a base model truck, used to be a uHaul box truck, and we got it with 239K on the clock.
Well fast forward from last June to this month and it killed out another PCM, so I got one out the JY with the same numbers and all on it, and it ran twice and killed that one too, and it's got me at wits end, since there's literally nothing that blows fuses or DOESN'T work, everything is perfect but it won't stop it's PCM habit. It's only killing them when it's switched on, to narrow things down.
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Ok so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
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