Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 Start With Real Low RPMs For A Second Then Cut Out
Jun 12, 2013
Ok, I have a 2004 F250 FX4 4wd 5.4L with almost 160K miles.
Sometimes, mostly when it's hot, and I go to restart it, it will crank and crank and crank, so I let off and then try again and it will start. Then other times I will have to do it 3-5 times before it starts, or it will start with real low RPM's for a second then cut out. I have been told this truck does NOT have a Fuel Pump Driver Module (My previous F-150 did). So I'm thinking the fuel pump is just temperamental. Having this issue or replaced a fuel pump before? What brands, places, etc. are good to buy at a decent price?
I tried to look online and was confused about a "midship, rear, and center tank". All I know is my truck is an extended cab and has about a 29 gallon tank.
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I have a 2000 Ford-F250, V10, 6.8 liter Gas. The issue is that when I try to start the vehicle it will start, but then start to idle real low and then die. If I try to restart sometime it will and sometimes you have to let it sit. I can also pump the gas and it will sometimes start.
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2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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I have a 2004 F250 5.4 gasser, 214K on it. It is my daily driver, and it gets around 6mpg. I feel like this is a lot less then it should get. However that's not the only problem. it wasn't always this bad, but now almost every time I start it, it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont start. I turn the key back, forward again, it turns over 2 or 3 times, and starts, but kind of spits and sputters at a low rpm before speeding up the rpms. I feel like these issues are linked, but its pretty annoying that the starting issue happens everyday. Its been doing this for about 3 years now and I feel like one day it will let me down. People start looking at me if I have to try to start it 2 or 3 times.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
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I've got a 99 f250 5.4 that runs like a top. In the last 6 months I've been chasing a little problem. It doesn't happen all the time but seem to be happen more and more. While driving any speed If I let off the gas the RPM's hold at around 1500 then surges down to 1000 then back up again to 1500.
Does that 2 to 4 times then all good. Give it gas again it does it again. It kind of does it when it wants. Could be fine for a trip around then next trip it acts up again. Checked a lot of the vacuum lines, PVC valve and replaced the idle control next to the EGR valve. EGR is next.
Idles and runs fine except the surge thing..
P0401 code as well.
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My dad has a 04 f250 5.4 auto. The motor turns over but very slow and will not start. He's put two new starters on. I went and looked at it and figured it was loose cables or corrosion, but it was fairly clean, and tight. We decided to pull the battery out of his van that he drives everyday, and I cleaned everything very good. Same thing. Pulled the belt to make sure nothing was lockup, same thing. Truck was running and starting great, then just did this one morning on him.
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My 05 f250 5.4 has developed a whine that is easy to hear in low rpms. I don't think it goes away with higher rpms, but instead is just masked by the sound of the engine. It will do this in drive, reverse, and also when it is revved in park. What this could be?
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I have 2005 f250 5.4l 3v that was having miss problems between 1200 and 2000 RPMs. Changed VCT solenoids which worked, but then could hear chain hitting cover when powering down throttle on left side. Figured chain tensioner was bad, so tore down and removed timing cover. Found left chain was tighter than what seems normal, and right side had huge amount of slack. While taking off tensioner on left side, something happened to fast for me to see it, and still not sure if what happened wasn't just my imagination. I thought that the chain moved very fast for an inch or two. Anyways, I watched how to video on timing the 3v, but I am very confused about it. The left bank seems to line up on timing marks perfectly, but the right chain is off by at least 2 1/2 links. Not knowing any better, I removed three rockers on left bank (2 intakes and 1 exhaust) but only removed two intake rockers on right side. I don't know what I am doing and getting scared.
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I have a 2003 F250 with the 5.4 and I believe I am having a fuel delivery issue. I took out yesterday and stopped to get a drink at the gas station, came back out and the truck wouldn't start long enough to idle. It would start, barely bounce off zero rpms and die out. I checked the fuel interia switch and it was down. I tried turning the key back and forth thinking it might reset the fuel pump or something and that didnt work. I get the truck towed home and couldn't get it to start last night. I go out this morning and it starts, come home from work and now it won't. This happened about 2 years ago and I never did anything about it, but it took 2 years for it to happen again.
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I have a 2004 f250 with a 5.4l and it won't start. I went to leave the store and went to start it and the truck started when I turned the ignition on not when I engaged the starter so I drove home anyway but there was what sounded like a spraying noise coming from underneath the truck all the way home the truck did die once on the way home but started right back up without me doing anything. Got home shut the truck off now it won't crank or anything all my lights and everything come on like normal just won't crank. What the problem is?
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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I've been having issues with the charging system on my 2005. The battery was 7 years old, so I replaced it. Now, the battery light comes on dimly (and flickers) when at low RPM. I am thinking alternator. I replaced one on my 2002 F150, but haven't done a 250. How hard are they to get to and replace? This is on a 5.4 gasser.....
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So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
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I go out of town for work for a week and come back and my 1999 F250 V10 GAS, is acting up. It started when i tried to drive it and it didn't want to shift, it would rev up to 3000+ RPMs and finally shift really hard into gear along with the speed odo not keeping up and bouncing around not wanting to work. I also had my entire gauge cluster lit up with no key and door closed. all the lights were on and it was "dinging" like the door was open and it wasn't. you would hear it when you put your ear up to the door.
So my first thought was to change the VSS (which I did) no luck. So I started wiggling wire loops under the fuse box in the cab and the "dinging" quit.. i took it for a drive and it works like nothing ever happened. Obviously I am guessing there's a short so i brought it to my mechanic and hes saying he couldn't find anything by the fuse box but he thinks its closer or even attached to the gauge cluster itself. could this be true? Why would the gauge cluster loop throw off the shift points?
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My 2003 F250 6.0 It started about a month ago and got worse. Let truck idle for 4-5minutes and idle will jump a few hundred rpms. Got worse as it idles and cant figure it out. It eventually died and died once while driving but starred right back up.
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My 2012 F250 6.2L (Gas) engine developed a noticeable drone/vibration when in drive between 1600 - 1800rpm. RPMs above and below that range is fine. But when accelerating, as soon as the RPMs reach 1600, you can feel a slight vibration through the gas pedal and a noticeable sharp draon/moan up till about 1800 or 1900 rpm, then its normal.
I took it to my ford dealer and took the service manager out for a test drive. He said that there is a drone and slight vibration withing that RPM range. He thought that the engine mounts may be loose. But aside all that, he felt something was off and wrote up the service order.
When to pick up the truck and now the service manager changes his tune and said that the drone is normal and happens on all 6.2L super duties.
To be honest, I have the feeling he is pulling my chain.
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I have a 2000 f250 crew cab short bed 7.3 on a 6inch bds lift and 37 inch tires. When I accelerate pretty much any load above 1200 rpms I can feel a vibration, kinda feels like it may be coming from the front left but I'm not sure. I have heard that a wheel bearing going out can cause this, would this maybe be what's causing it?
I thought wheel bearing because it kind of sounds like there's a howl when decelerating, probably when accelerating as well but the trucks too loud and I can't hear it. or also have heard motor mount gone bad, I've also heard ujoints but the ujoints were done this summer. the front ujoint is bad but the front driveshaft shouldn't be turning when out of 4x4 and hubs unlocked.
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The 2011 have been out for awhile now. How about some of you with the 6.2L engines sharing your gas mileage. I have not seen anything but better than last year's model in advertisements.
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Is there truely no cure for exhaust flutter on a 2002 f250 V10, bedsides putting on headers??? I have the the sound at shift points around 1800-2200 rpms. Sounds great before and after these points....
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