Just wanting to know what might be wrong truck will not go into 4x4. All fuses in panel looked good. Light on dash is not coming on was working last weekend just fine. Have the hubs in lock position not auto.
View 6 RepliesI have a 04 f250 with aprox 95k on it 5.4L I knew I was over mileage for a due oil change I haven't been driving it much it crossed my mind, as I am usually very adamant about changing fluids. I went to check my oil and only a smudge of oil on the dip stick. I know this is not good but the truck runs fine, no noises, no knocking, not a chatter from the valve train. Oil pressure was good everything seemed fine did I get lucky? I know it wasn't good I am not going to let that happen again everyone think I dodged the bullet?
View 9 RepliesI have a 04 ford f250 superduty... I tried to use my 4x4 today and the front wheels would not engage using the ESOF. The light comes on in the dash saying its in 4x4. i do not believe i have a vacuum leak because it doesn't switch over to the automatic setting for defrost. what else could it possibly be I'm stumped at this point.
View 14 Replies4x4 will not engage. 4x4 light on dash does not come on. Can not hear motor switching into 4x4. Check fuses under dash all looked good.
Truck is a 2004 F250SD V10 ....
2004 f250 6.0 4x4 no throttle at all, no cel, idles and runs just fine just no throttle, had a diesel mechanic look at it and he couldn't pull any codes, where to start, checked all wiring, checked connections, changed the EBP sensor and tube (read that was a fix multiple times) no change
View 4 Replies2004 S/D 4x4 V10 F-250 72,000 miles. Replaced Battery about 6 months ago. I have tested the Battery today and it's fine. I had replaced starter at same time. The issue I'm having now is that the engine will not start. Behaves as if the Battery has low charge state, Which is not the case. Starter engages and will "crank" for a turn or two and thats it. like low charge on battery. I don't know what to look for next, except pull the starter and test it. Fluids at Level.
View 5 RepliesI have an 04 f250 the 4wd won't lock in for some reason. The truck has manual locking hubs (turn them to the right to lock in 4wd or turn them to the left to unlock them) and I get the light on the dash just fine but the truck doesn't actually lock in.
When i I put it in 4 low it feels like it's in but it's not. I also noticed that when I put it in park while it's in 4 low it makes a crazy sound like it would when you put a car in park while you're still moving and the park pin makes that clicking noise.
Anywhere in particular I should start to look? Nothing up in the front end looks abnormal or out of place.
I've had the truck 10 years. Never had any 4wd related issues. I did however replace the transmission in December (and I did successfully use the 4wd after the transmission was installed).
I have an 04 F250 with no brake lights. However the third brake light works. I've also noticed that my trailer brake lights don't work either. I do have all my turn signals and running lights. Another issue that could be connected is I have one out of four hazard lights. When I push in the hazards my front passenger blinker works but none of the others. Could this all be due to a relay switch?
View 14 RepliesBought an 04' F250, looked good but definitely not well maintained. Have replaced tranny temp sensor, thermostat, fuel filters, air filter.... Etc. heads have been redone and new studs installed , Egr delete, new oil cooler, flushed cooling system. Now tonight coming home noticed the brake lights aren't working, all 3 are out... fuses are good. I've heard multifunction switch or brake switch.....
View 12 RepliesMy '04 f250 with a 6.8 V10 will periodically stop like you shut off the key. It will restart immediately, but you have to shut off the key first. Associated with this are all sorts of codes that appear to be spurious like something is glitching the computer. When it started we were moving out of state so I took it to my mechanic. They chased the codes and found nothing out of whack.
Codes cleared and the next time it happened new ones appeared. The last time it did it the transmission temp gauge quit working, but comes and goes when I drive it. I also have a problem with the key fob needing to be reprogrammed when it happens and the codes showing it is in learning mode like it had been reset or the battery disconnected I am pretty sure it is a wiring problem or maybe the ECU power relay is bouncing.
I have a 2004 Ford F-250 6.0 power stroke, the previous owner got water in the tank, rusted the injectors, and destroyed the pump, I changed the pump and 2 injectors, it still died. It has 300K miles on, pretty high. Right now all symptom is the motor is starving for fuel, because the injectors are leaking, getting air in it. When I pull the fuel filter out, it is full of dirt, And swollen up because of water. So, I am planning to flush the tank, get rid of the water and then replace the injectors. Could there be any damage on the motor ? Engine problems? I know 6.0 is a bad design, but apart from getting rid of it, how could I fix ?
View 3 RepliesMy A/C has been working fine up til the end of last season and getting worse now. It comes on and blows really cold, then after a bit a electrical connection gets hot and looses contact somewhere. I can turn it off for about 5 miles then turn it back on, May last the rest of the day, may only last 10 min, then turn it back off, wait 10 min, turn on, does great! I thought it might be a dampener door,, but does the same whether in defrost, regular A/C, or max, so I think it has got to be a electrical connection getting hot and loose.
2004. F250 FX4. 198,000 miles,,,, runs great,,, just a little hot driving!!!
I have 2004 F250 6.0 diesel. I added 35s with diamo rims and I installed a front end lift which added a small leaf springs to the factory leaf spring to raise the front end 2 inches . The truck drives fine no problems at high speeds and low speeds except for right at 45 mph. At that speed the whole truck vibrates up and down . If I accelerate the vibration goes away. Discount tire rotated balanced etc and even replace a rim and nothing has changed. I did put the factory wheels and tires back on and the vibration went away. Put the big tires and rims back on and vibration is there at 45 mph. How to troubleshoot this ? I have 90,000 miles on her.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 F-250 with a 6.0 and a 6-speed with 140,000 miles. It has been studded, and has upgraded injectors. ( Not sure on the size, they bored them at at the diesel shop that studded my heads.) Also have an EGR delete, with the EGR turned off on the SCT as well. I also have a SCT Livewire set on the 65HP tow tune.
Truck has always ran great in the year and a half I have had it. I changed the oil three days ago, and now I am getting a miss at idle. The trucks cranks right up and drives normally. Once it is at operating temperature, when I stop at a light it has a very noticeable miss. There is no surging, or change in RPM's at all. Just seems like it is cutting out every few seconds. This is also somewhat intermittent. FICM shows 49 volts always, even when this is occurring.
Also, this may be unrelated, my oil temperature seems higher since the oil change. Was around 192 water/197 oil while cruising 70 on the interstate. Now, its' more like 192/202. I've always ran Motorcraft 15w-40, and that is what I used for this oil change as well.
I see some people have a similar problem, but all the posts I've read involved fluctuating RPM's or surging, or both. Other than this, the truck cranks and runs just like normal.
2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grapplers
Truck started bucking and stalling when warm and over 60mph. No codes.
I have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.
Is it possible to put a 7.3 ltr from a 1997 van in my 2004 f250.....6.0 has cost me my fair share and would like to swap, 7.3 was giving to me because body is smashed i know engine is good , runs and drives
View 3 Replies2004 F250 v10 xtl 260xxx. Started off by using my remote start, truck started up ran for about 5 sec then shut off, then restart itself and shut back off. When I manually started it, it ran fine. I noticed my battery light was on and as I was driving it would flicker. First thing I did when I got home was clean all my connections to see if that worked. Battery light still on, checked my volts on my battery and they were at about 11.8 with a slow but steady drop while truck was idling.then checked my alt, that too was at about 11.9 with a stead drop.
Alt was only about 7 months old and I had a warranty on it so I had it replaced at Napa and had them test it there. Good alt. Installed the new alt charged up my battery and turned it over. Battery light still on and flickering. Checked all my wires for corrosion, checked all my grounds. Everything checked out. Checked my battery again 12.4 with the truck off, cranked it over and it was back at 11.9 with a steady drop and almost the same reading with the alt. I replaced the battery as well yesterday, seeing how it was about 7 years old.
I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
I have recently purchased an 04 F250 crew cab with the 6.0 power stroke, it has a cold air intake, 4inch exhaust from the turbo back and has a program in it but programmer didn't come with the truck. When I sit at a traffic light and go to leave on a green light the truck kind of hesitates or acts like it's missing out( maybe loading up) shoots out black smoke then runs fine, it doesn't do it at all the stop lights but does get irritating. If I get it flashed back to stock settings will the truck run normal with all the upgrades?
View 4 RepliesI was driving and all of a sudden the radio died, battery light came on, Power windows and interior lights died, gauges died speedometer went all the way up to 100. The Head lights, turn signals and heater work. When I got home I opened the hood and the battery was boiling.
View 14 Replies