Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Towing / Parking Lights Staying On
Jul 11, 2015
When I hook a trailer to my '04 F-250 the parking lights stay on. The lights on the truck are not on. I pulled the fuse for the towing lights and they will go out. Pulled what I believe to be the relay according to the owners manual and they still stay on. I have to unplug the trailer every time I stop for any period of time.
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Iv been chasing an electrical issue with my park lights staying on. Even with the #8 fuse out and the GEM unplugged the lights stay on.
They are being powered by the #4 fuse circuit that power mirrors, glove box light and under hood light are on. With that fuse pulled the park lights go off.
Now I have to figure out how the 2 circuits are connected.
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And now for something completely different....This just started, Close either door and the dome light and cargo light stay on much longer than they used to. Timed it and they do finally go off after about 1/2 an hour. Everything else seems to be functioning ok. I searched the forums and didn't come across anything the same, however I got the impression that there is some kind of solenoid/switch that controls this function. 2002 f250 XL 4x4 Regular cab.
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The light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
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My 2011 F250 has no front or rear running lights working, mirror side marker lights not working and fog lights not working. I have checked all fuses including 30amp trailer light fuse and they are good. The fuses in the passenger kick panel are not getting energized.
I replaced the switch with a friends from same truck and no luck there. The headlights, dash lights and turn signals work fine. Here's the kicker, when I back feed 12V to the yellow/blue wire at front running light it turns them all on, including mirror lights. I've switched out relays in the box under hood and that didn't work.
When I pull the switch on dash to turn on the fog lights the indicator in the switch doesn't work either, they are both listed on the same fuse but as I said, the fuses have continuity across the blades but when I test the socket there is no voltage going to them. I have not connected a trailer to see if those are out yet but will do today.
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2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
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I have a 2002 f250 SD v10 4x4. I had a ground wire break fixed that know noon of my instruments work. Dash lights up but nothing moves. Pulse my parking lights stay on when the truck is shut off or when I turn lights on then off. I have to disconnect the battery to get hem to shut off.
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We have a 99 F250 193,000 miles with a 5.4 and a 5 speed manual with 3:73 gears and we tow a camper that weighs empty 6700 lbs. I knew something was off when we were bringing it home, there was no real umph in the motor. It wouldn't get past 55 in 5th gear on the express way, and just felt as though it was gonna blow up. Its a new to us truck and on paper it should tow this easily. We have a couple of trips under our belt now, and nothing has really changed. With gear and goodies I dont think we're even talking 7500 lbs. I like the truck, and don't really want to get rid of it. With in reason what should I expect to be able to tow and what can I do to better the situation.
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I am wondering IF THERE ARE ANY CONNECTIONS WITH TOWING AND THE ABS LIGHT coming on? I just did 360 mile round trip on I84 and I 81 in western NY and eastern PA with decent hill climbs (some with 6% or so grades) - think coal country. I was pulling 8,000 or so pounds (trailer with a jeep on it).
On the way out, the ABS light came on. I pulled into a rest stop and shut her down for a bit. I had been driving on this terrain for the better part of 2 hours. I restarted and the ABS light turned off for the balance of the trip. It was cold (in the 20's) outside. On the return trip 2 days later, the same thing happened after 90 minutes. I stopped again and restarted the trip which turned off the light. This time, the light came back on 10 or so minutes later.
This is the only occasion when my ABS light has come on.
2005 F250 Crew Cab SuperDuty 6.0L
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My 2014 f250 4x4 crew cab with 6.2l gasser only gets about 7.5-8 mpg at 65 mph while pulling my 27' bumper pull travel trailer. I know that thing is basically a wall trapping the air but is there anything I can do to gain a couple mpg more? I can average about 15 mpg at 65 mph without the trailer on the highway.
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My 99 f250 ran hot while towing my travel trailer when the fan clutch gave up. ever since iv been noticing coolant loss and pressure in the day tank.ive changed the water pump,radiator. day tank and cap plus the thermostat.
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
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2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
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The rear tail lights on my truck have been out for a while now. I wasn't doing much driving at night so it wasn't much of a bother but the new job is getting me home a little later and having to drive with my hazards on is getting old fast.
My radio wasn't working either and I disconnected it a while back hoping maybe it had something to do with my lights shorting out but no luck. It remains disconnected. Just in the past few days my front running lights have went out as well.
I've tested all fuses multiple times (and replaced a couple of them) and checked and replaced bulbs. My brake lights, headlights, dash lights and hazards all work fine. I have the trailer light hook up on the rear bumper and disconnected it at the wiring harness as well hoping it was the problem but it wasn't.
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What will make a loud blower sound cycle on and off constantly when towing if i turn the ac off it stops....
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Dome lights staying on due to the door sensors, and the WD40 fix to cure it. Well mine has taken it a step further now. My truck won't recognize the closing OR opening of the driver door, and the driver door only. Naturally I tried the WD40 soak but it's been a few weeks now with no change.
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I have an 04 F250 with no brake lights. However the third brake light works. I've also noticed that my trailer brake lights don't work either. I do have all my turn signals and running lights. Another issue that could be connected is I have one out of four hazard lights. When I push in the hazards my front passenger blinker works but none of the others. Could this all be due to a relay switch?
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Bought an 04' F250, looked good but definitely not well maintained. Have replaced tranny temp sensor, thermostat, fuel filters, air filter.... Etc. heads have been redone and new studs installed , Egr delete, new oil cooler, flushed cooling system. Now tonight coming home noticed the brake lights aren't working, all 3 are out... fuses are good. I've heard multifunction switch or brake switch.....
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My early 04 runs great until I tow my 24ft rv any distance over a 2 or 3 hour period. When I exit the eway to fuel up or take a break it will stumble and this last time it quit running all together. I use my scanguage, all Temps good while towing never go faster then 65mph, new batteries etc. I had it towed to a local diesel repair shop that I have used before (all the 6.0 problems, oil cooler, egr hpfp, ficm).. When I Went to see them a day later, told me truck started right up and ran great, pulled a few minor codes, none that would have caused my issues. Scanner based testing passed air management, injector balance, all cylinders even.
When they originally scanned, it did show multiple docs for injector contributing, egr insufficient flow, 2 glow plugs and cam/crank sensor, but after cool down again started up and ran great. Truck has 200k on it. Last oil analysis showed internal engine in great shape. I trust this shop and this is not the first 6.0 they have worked on, I am just learning now of taking the rv on the road now. It would be difficult to hook rv up and just runaround to try and replicate what happened and be able to get to any repair facility. Truck is stock with exception of 4 inch exhaust,turbo back, no tuner etc. Also shop and I checked ICP and it is good, quarter volt. It was replaced with pigtail a few years ago.I also have the blue spring upgrade .Just drove to town and back and it runs perfect!
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I was wondering if there was a DIY mod so I can have my foglights on with my parking lights and my high beams..
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I have a 2012 f250 been in the shop 4 times for the traction control light just coming on randomly and staying on. they have flashed it changed something in the steering column forgot name of that and changed some sensors out. still does it. I think its a bad connection or bare wire is what I keep saying to them cause it only does it on rough roads and when its wet.
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