Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Speedometer Quit Working - Stays On 0 And Odometer Stuck
Mar 19, 2014
2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
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2004 F250. Just got about 6 inches of snow. I use this truck to plow my private road. A few other residences on the road rely on my plowing.
I usually use 4WD Low and gear 2 on automatic transmission to plow. Hub manually locked. But today, when I shifted to 2, and pressed on the gas pedal. The truck was not engaging to drive, as if it were in park or neutral. And when I tried to shift to park, there is grinding noise and wouldn't allow me. I had to turn off the engine to be able to shift to park.
When I manually freed the hub and used 2WD High and gear D, I was able to drive the truck without problem.
Later, I tried using 4WD Low and gear D, and was able to drive a little distance before the truck no longer drives, and pressing on the gas is as if the truck was in park or neutral.
Previous to this earlier, I was driving down the private road to see how much snow we got. Without the plow on, I might have gone up to 10 or 15 mph, and still using 4WD Low and gear 2, maybe for 1/2 mile. Could I have damaged something by driving too fast in that setting?
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Occasionally while driving my 2005 F250 the speedometer will quit working & the abs light will come on. The transmission will also start to shift weird. If I pull over, shut the truck off & restart it everything is fine again. I can go weeks at a time before it happens again, but yesterday it happened twice. The transmission doesn't seem to shift real fast, but I think that is a separate issue. My first instinct is that the rear VSS is starting to go out, but I am not sure if these symptoms are common.
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2005 6.0 F350 dually, speedometer quit working and the ABS light came on. I replaced the speedo sensor in the diff, but to no avail. Hear a lot about the cluster, however nothing with the ABS light on.
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On my 2006 F-250 truck, the speedometer is acting funky. It's like it stuck on the deceleration and now at a complete stop or idle it shows a speed of anywhere from 40-60 mph. It does change and go up and down, as I drive but it's now just off by 30-60 mph. Is this an electronic setting/calibration that one can do?
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My overhead display quit working earlier this week. The truck has 120k miles. Is this display on it's own fuse? I only used it for the outside temperature readout but I would really like to get it working again.
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Funny thing - had the truck in the body shop for several weeks and when it went in, everything worked. Got it back, and some of the radio buttons don't work. These are rocker style buttons, and when I push the AM (left side) that works. Press FM, and it won't go to FM. Press the right side of the tuning button, and it won't go up the dial. Press the left side, and it will go down. Same for cd. Left side of button goes backward through the tracks, but right side won't advance. Bass/treble button: Press bass (left side) and that works. Press treble (right side), and nothing.
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I have a 2002 F250, 5.4 extended cab 4x4. Factory lights. I have no turn signals. They were working just fine and without turning off the truck, all 4 corners quit working at the same time, as far as I know. The indicator lights on the instrument cluster don't work. I have checked/replaced all fuses. Replaced the switch lever and the blinker relay behind the dash. The hazards do work and always have. It might be coincidence but I believe the back-up lights quit working at the same time.
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1999 f-250 7.3 diesel. Speedometer doesn't work and neither does the odometer, the ABS light stays on and once you start driving the OD light starts flashing and the truck starts shifting weird. I've changed the rear ABS/VSS sensor on the diff and the OSS on top of the transmission at the tail end. Still no luck.....
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I have a 2000 f250 with auto/manual locking hubs and today the 4x4 quit working. The light comes on the dash and the drive shaft and u joints turn but the front wheels don't turn even when its locked in. I assume its the hubs? And when I am going down the highway about 75 the front starts making a hellacious noise but stops if I slow down is this connected?
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just got 20" rims 295/65/20 Nittos. Is my odometer accurate and speedometer?
Not that it matters but its a 99 F350 CC LB 3.73 axle ratio
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I have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
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I have a 2004 350. Turn signals quit working don't come up on dash either but when I turn the flashers on the left turn signal on come on that's on the dash and the lights. I replaced the turn signal relay that's under the radio. The old one would buzz when I turned the turn signal on but nothing would come up the new one clicks as it should but I'm still not getting turn signals lights on dash nor the light it's self. The flasher is still like it was only the left one comes on.
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Ihave a 2004 F350 4x4 Dually diesel. While in my hay field I hit a small rut and the truck bounced. About two seconds later all gauges and lights/windows quit working and the truck ran rough. I have a Banks system and it registered a code 33. Maybe 32 error. Book says it is an airbag deployment. They did not deploy. So I drove out of the field and turned it off to see if that would reset the gauges. No, not only that but the gauges all swept the faces from off to full to off and the truck would not start, just chatter.
I disconnected both batteries and waited. Reconnected and it started, but the gauges quit after 10 seconds..... Everything flatlined even the banks IQ. But the truck kept on running. Got back to the ranch and the batteries went flat overnight... Charged them up, starts fine gauges work but alternator puts out 11.5.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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My speedometer is jumpy, odometer quit working at same time. Shifts kinda hard going into 2nd and 3rd gear. I am at wits end. I have replaced both speed sensors, checked all fuses, and also tore dash apart checking the worm gear in the cluster. I don't want to take to the ford dealer. The truck got 172,000 on it but been very well maintained. I just don't think its the transmission. Its got to be something easy.
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE XM (153K miles). The speedometer and odometer have quit working completely. The speedometer doesn't even move from zero, no bouncing around or anything. The odometer also is not logging miles. My transmission shifts gears just fine and the cruise control works as well. I bought an OBD-II scanner and no codes came up. My first thought was maybe the vehicle speed sensor, but everything I've found on that say the car will shift poorly and the speedometer bounces around.
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My air conditioning on my 02 is having a issue, when you first start it and run the ac all is well and it cools perfect but then after a while it will quit working all together no more cold air, shut it off for a bit then it starts working again and repeats the process, charge is fine, been doing this all summer, it verys on how long it will work somethings for 5 minutes other times 40 minutes give or take, any thoughts?
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I just bought a 99 f250 sd 5.4. The speedometer doesn't start working until it reaches about 30 mph. The transmission doesn't shift correctly until the speedometer starts working. I cleaned the speed sensor on the rear end but that didn't work. I don't see any sensors or switches on the tranny other than the neutral safety switch. What it is?
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Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
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My A/C has been working fine up til the end of last season and getting worse now. It comes on and blows really cold, then after a bit a electrical connection gets hot and looses contact somewhere. I can turn it off for about 5 miles then turn it back on, May last the rest of the day, may only last 10 min, then turn it back off, wait 10 min, turn on, does great! I thought it might be a dampener door,, but does the same whether in defrost, regular A/C, or max, so I think it has got to be a electrical connection getting hot and loose.
2004. F250 FX4. 198,000 miles,,,, runs great,,, just a little hot driving!!!
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