Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - High Screeching Noise When AC Turned On
Jul 6, 2016
I have an 04 F250 6.0L and for the last month or so when I turn on my AC it makes a high screetching noise but only last for a little bit. Had a friend that works on cars on the side take a look at it one day and he said it was the AC cutch trying to engage. Does this sound like what it could be? Also if it is can it be changed out without having to remove the compressor? What all is involved in changing it out?
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Trying to find a bit of information for my dad. He has a 2008 F250 with the 6.4L PS. It recently started making this horrible screech on his initial take off from park. After he let's off the gas and brakes, the truck won't make this noise again for the rest of the time it's on. He ended up replacing the turbo, and that did not resolve the issue. I believe the Y pipe was checked and it was fine. What it could be that would cause it only on the first acceleration?
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My '04 f250 with a 6.8 V10 will periodically stop like you shut off the key. It will restart immediately, but you have to shut off the key first. Associated with this are all sorts of codes that appear to be spurious like something is glitching the computer. When it started we were moving out of state so I took it to my mechanic. They chased the codes and found nothing out of whack.
Codes cleared and the next time it happened new ones appeared. The last time it did it the transmission temp gauge quit working, but comes and goes when I drive it. I also have a problem with the key fob needing to be reprogrammed when it happens and the codes showing it is in learning mode like it had been reset or the battery disconnected I am pretty sure it is a wiring problem or maybe the ECU power relay is bouncing.
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I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
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I was cruising my truck down the road and noticed that my high beam indicator light was very dimly lit. I wondered why this would all of the sudden come on at all if the high beams were not on so I pulled over and took a walk to the front of my truck to check my headlights. Sure enough the passenger light was very dim. (I must assume the high beam indicator light being dimly lit is also an indicator for headlight malfunction/burn out)
I figured out the plug has a keeper piece that is supposed to hold it in the bulb base but it was broken off and missing.
I went to the auto parts store to find some kind of fix. To my surprise they have a replacement plug for my truck. The down side is it costs $95 and it still had to be shipped! I decided I could figure something else out.
After I pulled the four 5.5 millimeter screws out of the headlight housing. I noticed there is enough room on either side of the light contacts to drill a hole thru the plug and the bulb to allow a pin to be placed thru both of them which would keep the plug and bulb socket from coming apart.
These are the pins or keepers I used.
A 1/16" drill bit did the job. I put the new bulb/socket and the plug together and drilled a hole on each side of the plug right thru the socket at the same time far enough back and at a width to avoid the contacts of the bulb socket and plug. (there is a rubber gasket in the plug that should be avoided but if you still knick it as I did you can fill the plug or the socket with dielectric grease that most car parts stores have and it will keep any moisture out but not effect the electrical current, do not use silicone, one day you will have to take it back apart for a bulb replacement or something.)
This is the bulb socket with the holes already drilled and the plug removed. This is what it looks like with the bulb/socket and the plug together and the keepers in place. And the back of the composite headlight housing with the assembly installed.
Make sure you install the bulb/socket and plug with keepers on the housing before you bolt the housing to the truck because there is not enough room to get your hands behind the housing to install the keepers with the housing bolted to the truck.
Since I replaced the stock bulb with a Sylvania Silver star I had to replace the driver side too so I didn't end up with a headlight being brighter or "whiter" than the other. Even though I was incredibly careful I still broke the plug on the driver side too! So now both of my headlights now have this mod on them.
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Just bought my first Ford. Its a 2015 F250 Platinum. Im at 1400 miles and Im becoming concerned because when I start the truck for the first time in the day, no matter how long I let it sit and warm up I am noticing that on the first couple of miles of driving I hear a high revving sound as I accelerate and it seems to quick shift during those first few miles.
As I continue to drive the high rev sound just fades away and all engine sounds and shifting are as normal as can be and will remain that way until the truck has been sitting for an extended period of time and is cold. I thought it had something to do with tranny temp but this morning I let the tranny warm up to about 115 deg in neutral before taking off but still had the high rev for the first few miles. I have never owned a ford nor have I ever owned a heavy duty truck, hoping this is normal.
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Noticed this morning that the truck appears to have a screeching/grinding noise while going straight down the road. If I go a bit of speed and stop the engine and exhaust from revving and making noise and just let it roll I can hear it and hear it better by sticking my head out my window. My engine and 5" straight pipe hide it well while im going though. I think its coming from my front driver side but im not 100% exactly sure. What it could be? I know there are a lot of variables to cover but any ways to check things out? Also! I can hear it slightly while reversing slowly.
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I recently pulled the stock tp38 off. The reason for rebuilding is the turbo started making an awful screeching on start up and shutdown when the compressor is at a low rpm and starts to wobble.
The shaft has 1/2 in and out play with 1/8 in every direction. the compressor has some wear marks but no chips, the turbine has some good chunks missing. from what i can see there are no marks on the housings.
What should i put in it as far as new compressor and turbine/shaft. nothing that requires machining. I am not looking to run more boost or anything, just looking to reduce spool up time if possible. Any specific rebuild kit? what turbine and compressor should I go with?
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I just bought an 09 f-250 lariat 6.4 . It has 100k on it. Was driving it AC was working fine. Next time I got in it went to turn the AC Auto on and nothing..the display works fine..lights work..looks like it is working, but nothing. No fan no anything.
Also, the check engine light will come on too. Then next day everything works fine again. Check engine light is out..everything looks perfect. Then this morning the same thing happened..check engine light and no AC.
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I just bought the truck and the ac was working and now out of nowhere when you turn it on it just blows hot air so I just assumed it was out of free on so I bought an ac pro but that did nothing.
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After reading the book, I'm afraid I still don't understand. When the hubs are in AUTO, & the shift on the fly selector is turned to 4X4 high, or 4X4 low, is the truck in 4 wheel drive. What happened to free or lock.
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In the last few hundred miles of driving, I notice there is a strange noise coming from what appears to be the front end of my truck. It sounds similar to a buzzsaw or a power sanding tool whenever it comes in contact with an object. The noise starts at around 30 mph, stops from 55-60mph, and starts again around 65 mph. The truck rides and drives normally and there doesn't seem to be any metal to metal contact noises or clunking and the hubs dont seem to be hot to the touch. I was thinking improperly balanced tires, wheel bearing, or front carrier assembly. What it could be? The noise just suddenly started and I was wondering if I should keep driving it?
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Ok here goes I dive a 1999 f250 super duty with 5.4 it's automatic 4x4. I dropped my kids off at school and was headed home turned a corner when the oil/temperature light flashed and the truck just quit. I tried restarting it and it just clicked like the battery dead. Had my better half come and jump it. Did not work it would only roll about a half Revolution and stop. So we towed it home where I put the battery on the charger. Now I can't even get it to roll over. And yes there is oil and it did not over heat.
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1999 5.4L F250 ... When I turn my ignition all my lights come on and I have power to dash and etc, battery is strong, but when I turn the key I get nothing even when I do the shifter trick for the slip we get on most fords nothing took ignition lock cylinder out and blasted it with electronic connection cleaner, when key is turn i loose all power to everything and there is no "click" or i gage from anything under the hood or the starter rally confused!
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
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Okay this is what I got; I recently purchased high mileage 2004 F250 Super Duty short box super cab 5.4 liter. Came with manual 4x4 handle on the floor so no 4 wheel on the fly and this eliminates the vacuum for the auto hubs so this will not be part of the problem. When engaging the hubs and ONLY when engaged the driver side hub grinds. The 4 wheel drive works but it sounds like its ready to grind itself into oblivion. I did pull the hub and the grinding was gone, I happen to have a spare hub that is good and the grinding returned.
I have jacked it up and made sure I have no play in the wheel itself and the axle knuckle on the axle shaft. Some say remove the front drive shaft? Or turn the wheels all the way in one direction engage the hubs and check for binding? I will do this in the morning, but what does that confirm if it not the hub. Could it be the passenger side echoing across? On my 99 Super duty I kept hearing moaning coming from up front like the breaks were shot and if you stuck your head out the window it was the back echoing to make it sound like the front.
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2004 F250, I am getting this howling noise when applying the brakes. It sounds like it is from the left front and is more prevalent when applying the brakes down an incline (off ramp, etc) I pulled the wheels off and the pads were probably 50-60% worn. I bought some new pads and installed them and I still get the same noise. I didn't buy the cheap pads, nor the most expensive either. Either way, I can't figure it out. Would I need new rotors? I would think I would have some vibration if the rotors were warped. My other thought was the caliper, but when I replaced the pads it compressed fine and I lubed the slide rails. Not sure what to do at this point. The truck has 94,000 miles on it, FX4, Lariat, Crew Cab, and it has the 5.4L in it.
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My 2004 f250 5.4 Triton has been making a sort of ticking noise, it almost sounds like my lifters have a little play in them but it also sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. They both would sound about the same and it seems to be getting a little worse of gas mileage than before. Also, the check engine light was on from Saturday into Sunday night then it shut off Sunday night and hasn't been back.
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I have a 2004 ford f250 5.4 and ithe makes a Humming noise only at idle. I have checked the fan clutch. it seems to be good and does not spin freely. I was thinking maybe idle air control valve but the truck idles like normal and does not stall. the sound does go away when squeezing the air hose doing today the IAC but comes back as soon as you let off. can it still be the idle air control valve if idles fine and doesn't stall?
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2007 ford f250 .... 200k on it ....
Just had refurb engine installed with new oil elements as well. On a 9 hr road trip, the wrench light came on but no other warning lights.
No stock gauges showed any raises in levels.
No noticed loss of power at all.
The light would only come on once I drove at about 75 mph for about 10+ miles. It would not turn off when i slowed down, but when I would kill the truck and restart it, the light would be off. Just driving in town or on the highway briefly, nothing comes on. Took it in to oreillys to get scanned and they tell me a few codes pull up but none of them are valid. What would trigger the wrench?
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2004 F250 SuperDuty 6.0L Diesel. The turn signal (left or right), it would make a buzzing noise, so I located the relay under the steering wheel (by putting my hand on it and seeing which one was buzzing) and replaced it, I bought a replacement at Schucks, then the buzzing noise went away, and the clicking noise is back.
But.... I don't see the turn signal lights in the dashboard and the turn lights are not working, I checked, what could be the problem ? I read the owners manual, in the fuse box under the steering wheel, fuze #18 is used for turn lights, but it is not blown.
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