Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 Hard To Start / Low MPGs
Mar 1, 2017
I have a 2004 F250 5.4 gasser, 214K on it. It is my daily driver, and it gets around 6mpg. I feel like this is a lot less then it should get. However that's not the only problem. it wasn't always this bad, but now almost every time I start it, it cranks and cranks and cranks but wont start. I turn the key back, forward again, it turns over 2 or 3 times, and starts, but kind of spits and sputters at a low rpm before speeding up the rpms. I feel like these issues are linked, but its pretty annoying that the starting issue happens everyday. Its been doing this for about 3 years now and I feel like one day it will let me down. People start looking at me if I have to try to start it 2 or 3 times.
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My '01 f250 7.3 has gotten hard to start. It seems to maybe be due to cooler weather, but not always. I have been told that there is some sort of valve in the fuel tank that could possibly cause this when the fuel gets around a 1/4 tank or so. But, it's doing it at any fuel level. But it doesn't do it all the time. I do notice it more in cooler weather. Anyway, when I try to crank it, I'll let the "wait to start" light go off and then wait a bit more. I'll turn it over and it almost as if the batteries are weak.
I'll stop and give it a few seconds and turn it again and it will normally start. But sometimes I'll do this 5 or 6 times and it will finally fire. But the more I have to try, it's like fuel builds in the cylinders and it smoke like a coal train for a minute or so. Almost like gas motor that has been flooded. But the smoke burns off and it runs like a top. I was thinking the batteries may be weak , but sometimes the starter will spin the motor with no trouble at all. I'm at a loss. Is it possible for fuel to drain from the system causing it to have to reprime itself? Here lately the smoking has me concerned even though it clears up.
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I have a 2005 F250 with the 5.4. This truck has been one thing after another, as you can tell from my other posts. The problem this time is, if it cranks hard to start because it's cold(can be anywhere from as high as 32, but usually in the teens) it will start just fine, then several minutes later throw the check engine light. Put the scanner on, like clockwork, 4 codes, always cylinder 1 misfire pending, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions pending, cylinder 1 misfire confirmed, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions confirmed.
Sometimes you can hear a slight lope in the idle when it does this. Clear the codes, runs perfectly fine. It will never do it after it's been started for the day. Some days you would think for sure it would throw it when it's frigid and the winds been blowing on it, it doesn't bother, other days you wouldn't think it would, and it does.Can the computer think that since it didn't start right up, it misfired?
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Been driving my 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 with no problems then started noticing it lacking power so I changed fuel filter and air filter. After a week goes by I was at work and I was leaving to come home so I started truck to let warm up and it cranked longer than normal but started. Let run about 10 minutes idle nicely when I punched it it bogged down and had no power never died. I idled over into parking lot and power came so I took off again loss all power again, still never died. Got it right back to my work sat there a bit and tried again this time I took it easy and was able to get my truck home 30 so miles.
When I got home I ran codes p1211 came up for the icp sensor I changed it did not change anything still had same problem. This was a Saturday afternoon to evening issue. So sunday I played around with it just checking out info online and test driving it seem to run ok but still lacking power. Let it sit till Monday I went out to start it had to cycle key 3 time before it started idle nicely then died would not restart changed ipr valve nothing changed cam sensor nothing changed some how 10 quarts low in oil just changed dec. 30th don't know ? Now will start if I pump throttle and has all its power back?
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Ok, I have a 2004 F250 FX4 4wd 5.4L with almost 160K miles.
Sometimes, mostly when it's hot, and I go to restart it, it will crank and crank and crank, so I let off and then try again and it will start. Then other times I will have to do it 3-5 times before it starts, or it will start with real low RPM's for a second then cut out. I have been told this truck does NOT have a Fuel Pump Driver Module (My previous F-150 did). So I'm thinking the fuel pump is just temperamental. Having this issue or replaced a fuel pump before? What brands, places, etc. are good to buy at a decent price?
I tried to look online and was confused about a "midship, rear, and center tank". All I know is my truck is an extended cab and has about a 29 gallon tank.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with the 6.0 egr has been deleted and so on. Truck has been very trustworthy until now... It all started last week. I would get in and it would fire right up, drive 15 miles to work all is still good. Time to go home try to start and it would act like the batteries were weak with a weak crank until it finally takes off and starts. This intermittent situation has been happening but I just assumed that the batteries were going bad. I drove to work this morning truck fired right up and now that it is time to go home the truck only has a weak crank and wont fire up. I tested the batteries and they were low on cranking amps.
Replaced them with two new batteries. The issue still exists and didn't change. After reading through threads I found that it could be the FICM I checked it out as was shown through the other threads. With the key on only it was reading 51 vdc with someone trying to start the truck it was reading 48-50 vdc... Yes the truck does have fuel in it and yes the oil is good to. It seems that there is something electrical going on for sure due to the way it has been an intermittent problem for a week or so. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade but can fix anything if I know where to start.
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My dad has a 04 f250 5.4 auto. The motor turns over but very slow and will not start. He's put two new starters on. I went and looked at it and figured it was loose cables or corrosion, but it was fairly clean, and tight. We decided to pull the battery out of his van that he drives everyday, and I cleaned everything very good. Same thing. Pulled the belt to make sure nothing was lockup, same thing. Truck was running and starting great, then just did this one morning on him.
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I have 2004 Ford, thought it needed injectors because it was struggling hard almost a side to side movement. Had a friend recommend replacing the FICM, did that now it stumbles, less often, less movement like it's muted. I noticed it again yesterday after hard breaking, but also really likes to do it in heavy traffic.
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I have a 2004 f250 with a 5.4l and it won't start. I went to leave the store and went to start it and the truck started when I turned the ignition on not when I engaged the starter so I drove home anyway but there was what sounded like a spraying noise coming from underneath the truck all the way home the truck did die once on the way home but started right back up without me doing anything. Got home shut the truck off now it won't crank or anything all my lights and everything come on like normal just won't crank. What the problem is?
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I own a 2011 f-250 superduty, and have been having a problem with the steering, it goes from normal to lost of assist. Real hard to steer and dangerous. Then it will go away for a month, then start again. Some one on this site told me to flush the system which I did and it was fine for a month. A friend at a local ford dealer told me they had contamination in the system and I had to replace pump, reservoir, and flush system again....
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I have a 1997 f-250 heavy duty with the 7.3 I have been having problems with very aggressive and hard shifting. While it is acting up the overdrive light on the shifter blinks. This problem goes away and it might be good for a month or so, But it always comes back. I have had it to a professional trans tech, He replaced a part on the side of the tranny. I thought it was fixed, But now it is acting up again.
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I have a 1999 f250 sd with the 7.3. I'm not sure what is going on with my pickup. When I turn to the right i can turn with one finger, but when I turn left i have to put some muscle into it. Power steering fluid is full. I raised the front end and it turns both ways easy. My ball joints feel fine, there is no tire shake when i have it off the ground. My tie rods feel fine also, nice and tight. I was thinking about replacing the steering sector to see if thats the issue but wanted to get a second opinion first.
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I have a 2002 ford f250 with the 7.3l diesel. I recently installed a ts performance chip. On my pcm. And after i first tried all the different stages I didn't like how my transmission was shifting hard. So I contacted the manufacturer and he told me they could reprogram the chip for smoother shifting. So I removed the pcm and removed the chip. But when I went to reinstall the pcm I bent one of the pins on the pcm some how.
So I took it back out and straightened the pin with pliers . i reinstalled it back in the truck. Only to find when I reattached the battery cable I have no power to anything ignition ,horn, lights,Cigarette lighter etc. So my question is if the pcm is bad, or not contacting properly due to the pin being messed up. would that have anything to do with the lights and horn and all that? I suspect its the gem bsm or Vsm. Whichever one my truck has. But really not sure because everything worked fine just 20 min b4.
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When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
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On my 2008 f250 I can not turn the hubs without a set of pliers...does that mean I need new hubs....
What auto tranny do I have with the 5.4.. is it a six speed...
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I recently purchased a 00 F250 psd 4x4. Other than doing all of the fixes it needs to make it ride better I have been questioning the trucks "get up and go" and the EXTREMELY sensitive skinny pedal. Truck seems to pull very hard and puts out some black smoke under hard throttle but nothing like the really tuned trucks I have seen. But the skinny is so sensitive its hard to drive under 40mph in 3rd and once it gets up to 55 or so its real sharp getting on and off the throttle. Trans shifts great, TC locks and unlocks, truck runs awesome IMO but just a bit harsh. Is there a way to find out if it was tuned prior to me buying it other than inspecting for a chip, or is this the way they are and I just have to get used to it more...?
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I put some bfg at's on my '16 f250 6.2 today, 285/70r17 from 245/75r17. Has went to a larger tire and had funny downshifts? I had two hard down shifts on the way home from tire shop that I have never had before. I'm hoping this will go away once the computer relearns. Should I disconnect the battery or anything or just drive it and let it learn? I'm a little disappointed, the tires still look tiny, and checking clearances at liners and radius arms, I could have cleared a lot more tire easily. They sure looked bigger on dads '04. These will do me for a year or so until I can upgrade wheels, tires and suspension.
Before
After
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My 2000 F250 4 x 4 just started being almost impossible to steer to right when stopped. To the left it is ok. I was on a trip and when I got where I was going noticed the steering very hard. I checked the fluid level and it was almost empty. I filled the reservoir and let it sit 4 days. I am back on the road now and it is still doing it. Stopped to left is easy to right almost impossible.
My brakes are good. I noticed a couple times when I had to slam on the brakes on the tirp the rear tires chirped. I don't tow anything with it, just a family vehicle with 408000 miles. The power steering pump was replaced a few years ago. Pump, gearbox, etc? I need to get this fixed as I have another trip coming up in a few days.
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I have been having hard shifting from 1st-2nd when cold. Rpms up to 2000 and let off then goes into 2nd. After that, she shifts fine and shifts well until next morning when she sits overnight. Build tag is August 09, 2001, so no old mechanical diode? Took a sample of fluid and it is dark red (pic attached) and smells like hydraulic fluid...I don't think it smells burned. Does it sound like the calve body 1-2 shift or solenoid pack or needing rebuild?
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 34000 miles and my Transmission shifts hard between 2-3 and 4-5 took it to the Ford dealer and they said it is the shift solenoids are bad but it is cause from the Powertrain Control Module and its not covered by the warranty because it is part of the emission system.
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So I have a 1995 f-250 4x4 with the 460 and a E4od. So when I bought the truck I drive it two hours home and when I got into town it started shifting really hard and searching for gears. So I flushed it and installed a new oil filter because the oil in it was brown. Very brown. And smelled awful. So it shifts good, but what's happening now is that it shifts good in drive when it wants to.
In the morning it works great but when I get in it to leave after school it shifts really late (around 2900 rpm) and hard. So I put it in first and then into second but when it's time for third and I put it in drive it shifts back to first. But if I stop shut it off for a few minutes and turn it back on it works fine. It only does this after it's been sitting in the school parking lot all day. I replaced the mlps but not the connector due to I didn't have time at the moment. Could it be the tps? Something mechanical?
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