Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - FICM Voltage Low - Starter Broke Away
Jul 31, 2015
Truck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
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I threw a code on my truck for a P0611 FICM. I checked it out and I had 48 Volts DC with key in the on position and 47.8 Volts DC with the truck running. I know that if it is fried, the second reading should be below 45 VDC.
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I have a 05 f250 6.0 that currently will not start and no smoke. Replaced batteries and tested ficm. At initial injector buzz voltage drops to 18.8 then jumps back to 48.8 and drops again to 18.8 while cranking. My question is if the voltage is this low does the pcb still just need a resolder or are there components that will need to be replaced?
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After finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
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Just picked up a 2001 Gas F250 4X4 XLT. Everything seems to work except for the electric windows and ABS. I pulled both window switches and cannot find any voltage on the Blue/black cables. I jumped 12v to the drivers side switch and the windows work up and down even in auto. I have voltage at the 30a circuit breaker in the PDB but nothing at fuse #7 in the PCFP. I've checked for voltage at another connector with a Blue/black cable and found nothing. I'm thinking bad cable or GEM. I have noticed that the bell system doesn't sound when you have the key in the off position with the door open if that matters.
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I have a 2011 f250 sd that I removed the front grill and noticed 3 of the clips that hold the lower part of the grill in (bolts on the top) are broke. I went to the local Ford dealer for the clips and was told I have to buy the whole complete grille for it. The parts breakdown doesn't show the clips sold individually from the grille.
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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I have a 5.4L 2001 F250. I recently replaced the starter and this morning when I turned the key it just started clicking. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and swapped the battery from another truck and it started fine for a while. But after this morning the relays are still chattering even when the key isn't in. I believe it's still the battery ....
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I have a 02 F250 Super Duty XLT with a triton V8 with a automatic transmission . and when I shift into reverse after driving for a while the starter engages . It does not happen all the time . If i start up the truck and shift through or into reverse it doesn't happen . the only time it happens is when i've been driving for awhile and want to back up or park it will only do it once or twice after each drive so trying to get it to happen while in the shop is almost impossible . could this be caused by the transmission range sensor . I just had the code P0705 (transmission range sensor , A circuit input ) come on but the problem has been happening for a few weeks before that code came up .
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I have a 2010 F250 V10 4x4. about every 3-4 times when you start the truck....it seems as though the starter "sticks". If I catch it and shut it off and then turn the key right back it fires up and does not stick. Its as if the gear is staying kicked out into the flywheel. Are we thinking the starter itself? I'm thinking starter...but looking for input before I crawl under it.
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I have a 2005 f-250 King Ranch 5.4 triton engine...my problem occurs when i turn the key to start the pickup....i get a clicking sound and then nothing....when i use a portable jump starter, it fires right up...on the other hand, when i try to jump from a running vehicle i only get a clicking sound from the starter...
not sure what i should be testing...also, when i bought the vehicle it had been sitting for several months...for my test drive, they used a commercial charger/starter to fire the truck...i drove it about 10 miles, stopped, turned off the motor and 10 minutes later it wouldn't start...when i contacted the owner, he drove to me and "reset" the kill switch under the fuse box in the cab and then jump started the truck...
I drove it 40 miles home and for 4 days had no starting issues...on day 5 forward, i have had to use the portable jump starter every time...my battery shows 13 amps resting and drops to 5 amps when i try to start without portable jump starter...when i start it with the portable jump starter, it only drops to 10 amps...
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I have a 2008 f 250 super duty gas v10 i have never had problems with it start always starts right up and strong. After coming out of the story today I tried the remote start and it tried to turn for a couple seconds and stopped. I replaced the battery and starter and still nothing. i hear the relay when trying to start with both keys or remote start but nothing from the starter all lights are working .
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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2006 F250, 6.0, AT, 59K. Week and a half ago, started cranking slow. I charged the batteries and checked with a professional load tester. Both batteries good, but voltage was fluctuating and tester said charging system needs service (no battery light). I swapped in a remand alternator as a new was not available that day. It lasted 6 days and this time the battery light was intermittent.
I checked voltage and again it was fluctuating. I swapped in another remand unit and 3 days later, same thing, intermittent battery light and fluctuating voltage. I'm installing a new, not remand unit tomorrow. However, could a bad FICM cause this problem? I noticed that the engine seems louder (not the exhaust note) at idle. This truck is clean and I have no corrosion issues. What is the right direction to test the FICM?
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I own a 2004 F-250 Super Duty V10 truck. It's always ran and started great. I don't use it often so I make it a point to start and drive it around town twice a week. The other morning I went to start it and nothing. Engine will not turn over. Tried cranking with head lights on and they stay bright. It's an automatic and I tried going between park and neutral and still nothing. I can hear the little square relays in the fuse box clicking. Could the starter just have died? How are they to replace on these?
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Suspect I have a bad fuel pump. I checked for power thru the Inertia Switch. When I first energize the ignition I receive 12v after a couple seconds it drops to 7v. Is this normal? I checked at the connector to pump module and see the same reading. I swapped fuel pump relay and same readings. Just want to makew sure I dont have some other issue before doing pump.
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I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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Is there some sort of fix for this?
You know, you get in the truck and lean on the center "arm rest" to get better situated. After a while the constant abuse brakes something and now the armrest is now floppy
FYI, this in an 04 crewcab F350
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My outside, driver side front door handle is busted. I was about to order a new one from Rock Auto, and came across this-
DORMAN Part # 80645 {#7C3Z3622405APPTM} Front Left; Paint To Match
DORMAN Part # 79306 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Front Left; Black; Textured Finish; From 3/15/99
What is the difference here? Is something different on the early 99's?
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damn motor or something broke and of course its fully open. any tricks to disengage from powered sliding system? just need to get by for a bit til i can get to the dealer.
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I have a 08 F650 with the Cummings engine. I have almost 13 volts but the engine will not crank. When I turn the key the starter don't even click.
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