Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Driver Side Rear Sway Bar Link Upper Bolt Removal
Apr 16, 2014
I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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Working on my 2000 Excursion, 7.3, 4x4. Replacing front sway bar link arms and sway bar bushings. I got the driver side arm and the sway bar bushings done and have run into a problem removing the passenger side link arm. When removing the top connection bolt there's not enough clearance when extracting. I've gotten it loose, but as I go to pull it off, it butts up against the bell housing with about an inch of bolt left to clear the frame.
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We all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
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This is my sway bar and drag link look like with the wheel turned all the way to the right. When I took these pictures, I had put the right tire on the curb too see what it was going too look like. However. Even with all wheels on level ground. It still is running very close. When the steering is straight, I have maybe 1" to 1.5" clearance between the 2. My truck does have a readylift 2.5" level kit on it. Running like this stock or leveled? Should I look around for longer sway bar links?
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2004 F-250 140k 4wd 6.0. Front end had noise, standard sway bar link knock. I disconnected the sway bar on the drivers side and drove it around. Smooth and noise free. Determined new links were needed, Installed new links and now even more noise. Disconnect them and no noise again. What am i missing? Bushings look good on the axle. Is the pressure from the sway bar putting strain on another wore part?
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Got off the freeway today, driving along about 40 or so thought I smelled something hot like something burning. Stopped in a parking lot and smoke was rolling out from drivers side rear wheel. Look under and oil is dripping from inside of the wheel. Figure the caliper was hung up and got so hot it took the seal out. I can't get to it right now and the shop says I can't get in until next week, need my truck now. How long could I get by the way it is IF I take it real easy.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I have a v10 ticking on drivers side when I first take off in it. It doesn't do it idling and stops after you drive about a mile. I just had ford tune it up before this started so I took it back to have them check the plugs and they said it was a rod! Didn't sound right too me but I did check manifold bolts and they all was in place. Also if it was a rod would the noise go away???
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I want to know if there are any issues when removing the rear block, also do I have to put a new block in or can I just leave it out ....
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I would like information how to remove the rear seat back on a 2012 F250. I want to remove the head rests and from what I can find out they are bolted solid to the rear panel. I asked the same question earlier and got a reply for 2011, would that be the same? Is there any place I could get a schematic, a picture is worth a thousand words.
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I got a 08 ford f450 sd in the shop with a cracked abd broken bolt in the driver's side exhaust manifold, any tips tricks on getting it out,I have everything loose but I can't for the life of me get the egr cooler out of the way to access the top bolts to the manifold so I can replace the manifold, or a link to a service manual would be great.
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I've got a 2014 f250 xl super cab and can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the back seat back.
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I need to replace the front passenger side wheel hub unit on my 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 mile reg cab truck. Its been a while but I did one on my 2000 F250 without any problems. There should be a few clips inside the hub that hold the looking hub and shaft together, right? Do I need any special tools for this job? What do the bolts need to be torqued to?
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I tried searching and googling but came to no results, unless its like similar trucks. How do the 4x4 shift remove? I have an 04 F250 and someone decided to put the shift on sideways so the 4HI and etc read upside down before I purchased the truck. Do I just rip the thing off?
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I am in the process of installing a 6" pro comp lift on my 04 supercrew 4x4. Things were going good until I got to the upper strut bolts. Trying to remove the 3 nuts, one came off on the passenger side. The other 2 just spin, the bolt and nut. Haven't tried the drivers side yet. The only idea I had was making a notch in the top with a dremel tool and small cutting wheel for a screwdriver but my dremel tool smoked..
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On the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
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Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
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I'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
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I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
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I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
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I was going to add a rear sway bar to make the truck more stable after lifting it but then I thought when I eventually do a cummins swap, with all the torque and the tall block i have in the back ill get a lot of axle wrap so i will need traction bars. So what is the difference between them? will a rear sway bar stop axle wrap as well as body roll? Also will traction bars stop axle wrap and decrease body roll? I just don't want to get a sway bar now and then need traction bars and have to get rid of the sway bar.
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