Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Coolant / Transmission Gauge Switched
Jul 31, 2017
A few months ago I had a battery go bad. When I started the 2004 F250 6.0 it barely started. After that my transmission gauge became the engine coolant gauge and the engine coolant gauge became the transmission gauge. I tried disconnecting batteries but that did not work. I have the Scan Gauge tool and confirm the gauges are reading correctly but just swapped. So I'm wondering if the is a reset procedure for instrument panel.
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My truck is essentially stock except EGR DELETE. Lately I am seeing my coolant gauge in the cluster drop to zero instantly when the truck is warm. A quick glance to my edge monitor shows my ECT temp fluctuating wildly (but not stone cold) ranging from 65-190'ish degrees. The weird thing is even when it's showing low on the edge, Gauge showing nothing, it kicks my fan in. I would have thought that shouldn't happen because it's still showing a value ( very low yes) but maybe it pops into limp mode?
I am also having other gremlins like driving along all warmed up, come up to a hill and if I back out of the throttle, boost drops to zero and even with holding the pedal to retain the speed I am at, it just drops speed with no boost.. I then have to stomp on it and the boost will ramp back up. It will show something like 85% VGT but zero boost.. Is it normal to show zero boost with 66% vgt at idle in Park with no boost? Getting all sorts of codes lately. The coolant one is very intermittent (every drive several time but not every minute)..
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The transfer case on my 2001 F250 Powerstroke will not engage when the ESOF is switched to 4hi or 4lo. I checked the fuses and they are good. I removed the electric motor on the side of the transfer case and while it was hanging down with the two plugs attached I did not see any movement when the dash switch was moved to the 4hi position. I used a wrench to manually shift the transfer case and still did not get the transfer case to engage. What next?
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I have my 2004 f250 6.8L. Recently my truck has been having issue with the oil needle. When im stopped or coming to a stop my Check Gauge light comes on and my oil needle drops all the way down. As soon i step on gas it goes right back up. What could it be?
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Driving to work the other day my transmission shifted down and the transmission light started blinking. It felt like it geared down like it was in 4x4 I was doing about 55 at about 2600 RPMs. This has happened twice now and lasted around 2 minutes then stopped and ran great.
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I was driving home the other day when all of a sudden all of my electronics in my truck turned off. Turned out when I got home my battery terminal was loose so it ended up shorting out. (fixed that) but when that happened my fuel was just under half way. The next day I filled up and was pulling a 3,000 pound trailer. My gas gauge didn't move at all, all weekend it was stuck at full until I actually went over a bump and it started moving down to a quarter. I knew here was no way I could go all weekend pulling a trailer and only lose a quarter of gas so I filled up again and was only be able to fill up 14 gallons.
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1999 F250 V10 gas. I changed out the fuel pump, and now the gauge doesn't work. Checked all fuses - they're good. Is there any possibility that I could have accidentally pinned the float under the pickup sock, or got it hung somewhere? Is this a common occurrence? Don't really want to drop the tank again - but looks like I will have to in order to check/fix.....
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I bought the truck today (cheap) know it had this issue, oil in coolant no coolant in oil, ATF was not apparent on dip stick I'm told truck over heats.
2003 f250
5.4
400,000 + miles
I saw no bubbles in coolant tank when running... Need some things to check to narrow it down....
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I just purchased a 2007 Ford F250 5.4l V8. I noticed the coolant reservoir was a bit low so I went out and bought some Prestone extended life universal coolant, distilled water and a hydrometer. The current Coolant I have is a yellow/gold colour, which I believe is motocraft brand. I added 150ml 1:1 of distilled water and coolant. After that I tested the temperature rating and it was off the gauge (the previous owner obviously added just coolant and no water). My plan was to drain the radiator half way and refill with distilled water. But, how to do that I came across a lot of forums saying you can't mix Prestone ELT with Motocraft coolant or it will eat away at your engine as well as create a thick goo. Is this true? Will such a small amount (75ml) cause this effect? Do I have to do a radiator flush now, or can I just continue with my plan of draining it half way? The old coolant looked pretty clean. Do you think the Prestone anti freeze has already done any damage?
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So I just got an 01 f250, 5.4. Really loving this truck so far. Noticed as I was driving my gas gauge is stuck at full. One time it randomly dropped down to about half tank where I think it should be, but it jumped back up to full. Anything to suggest trying? I tried nailing a speed bump to knock the float loose at 30 and I'm not sure if it worked. Gauge goes to E when I shut the truck off, but as soon as I turn it on it jumps up to full. Should I try hitting the tank with a mallet?
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I have 03 F-250 with a 5.4 in it. Recently noticed the gas gauge is not moving much and seems like it will not go below half a tank. The gauge will go up however when i put gas in it. I just put techtron in it last night to see if this might work. Wasn't to sure if i did a battery reset on the truck if that may work as well.
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I got my 1999 f250 super duty v10 about a month ago. It had 200,700 some miles on it. It's now at 201,865. My issue is when I turn on my heater I smell coolant. It's kinda strong. No leaks that I can see. Not in the ground or in the cab or from what I can see of the heater core. It only smells when the heat is on, no smell on the cold setting. It sat for months before I bought it from a dealership. What it could be? Ok now it sounds like I have the ticking death sound. The one people have said happens when spark plugs are about to fail. So I guess new plugs are in order.
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Last week my transmission overheated after I saw the the gauge headed toward the red area I shut it down. After shutting it down, 2 minutes later the "Wrench" warning light came on. I hit "OK" and within 7 minutes the temp. was back in the middle.
This was the situation, My truck is a 2013 F350 4X4 SRW Crew Cab 65,000 miles towing a 15000 lbs. gooseneck trailer on a uphill service road, similar to a fire road. Was into it a mile and half into when a steeper section can and I dropped into "2" still in 2WD. Trans Temp. climbed with minutes and I shut it down. Did not look at exact temps when it happened, remember engine temp gauge in the middle.
Backed the truck down the hill a short distance and unhooked. Trans gauge went down to middle (normal) and was able to continue up the hill 2 more miles no problem, without the trailer. I have towed since around town with same trailer and no problems. Checked the trans fluid and it looks like new, clear red.
Here's sum history, I'm running Mag-Hy Tech Trans pan installed at 45,000 miles with a fluid change at the time of install. Towed plenty of times in between install and date of problem.
Had the truck in for service the previous day before the overheating for Oil Change, brakes, and coolant change. Nothing related to trans.
Wondering if I have a trans cooler issue? Temp Sensor issue? OR this is the way the transmission operates and it just could take the load and conditions???
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I have an 02 F250 V10. Ive always wondered about the transmission gauge. It seems to always point to the middle of the gauge range. This weekend I was pulling my car hauler up and over the Ozark mountains, and when I stopped for fuel I noticed the transmission was vomiting fluid underneath the truck (and on my exhaust creating a nice smoke bomb for everyone around me). The gauge indicated normal temps. It kind of gave me a sick feeling. I have ordered the 6.0 Trans cooler from Rock Auto and a new temperature sending unit. Do the trans temp gauge is supposed to move or is it pretty much useless?
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Just bought a watchdog monitor by Bullydog. What are the normal levels for Boost, MAF, Load for a SD Twin Turbo 6.0L?
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Recently had extensive work done on my 2005 F250 PSD. 4 injectors replaced, fuel regulator, and STC fitting on HPOP.
Got the truck back, and the fuel gauge, and "distance to E" display are working intermittently.
When the truck went in for repair, it was about 1/8 tank. After repairs, shop put about 30 miles on the truck.
I picked it up, and the gauge read E, and display said 0 kms to E. I filled the truck up, and the gauge still read E, and said 0 kms to E.
I then drove for a while, then powered down, and back up again, and gauge read below E (like when truck not running), and display had 4 dashes...no numbers, for distance to E. I powered down, and then back up, then it read 696 kms to E, and gauge working normally.
This morning, on a cold start, the 4 dashes, and empty reading returned. I shut off truck, and restarted it, and it started working again.
Could the shop have damaged the sending unit, while driving 30 miles, with so little diesel in the tank?
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2016 F250 Lariat, 4x4, Crew cab, Loaded, 6.2L gas, approx. 2,400 miles.
Well this was weird and spooky. I had to run to FedEx this morning. As I'm driving on the freeway at 70mph, suddenly the gauge cluster goes black, needles drop to zero, radio/panel display goes black, radio/AC reboots.
This happens about 5 times in rapid succession over the course of 35-50 seconds. Engine continued to run, could steer, etc.
Once things come back on, the radio was playing but the display showed it was off, same as the Climate but AC was still working.
I arrived at FedEx, shut off the engine, radio kept playing even after I locked and closed the door. Delivered the package, came out started the truck and everything worked fine for the next stop and drive home.
Could this be the same issue as was evident on previous models the the wire in the shift lever?
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I have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
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I got in my 06 f250 tonight and my digital read out on my temp control not working. My heater and A/C works but when I turn it off my outside temp is not on. Whats going on?
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I have an issue with my 2008 f250 6.4 where the gauge cluster is dark and truck won't crank. The only light on the dash is the airbag light. I have tried reprogamming with my Spartan tuner, checked fuses, removed aftermarket alarm, charged batteries. I scanned and got two codes. P1260 theft detected and a u code no comm with cluster.
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I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4L V8 with no heat. It wasn't missing, running funny or blowing white smoke out of the tailpipe and there were no coolant leaks nor did it overheat. Thermostat has been replaced twice, heater core flushed twice, water pump replaced, fan clutch replaced and blend door works...Cabin airflow gets colder when turned from hot to cold. This thing is sitting in my driveway and I am about to push it over a cliff. Did I mention it only has 56,000 miles on it?
Coolant was drained to replace water pump and flush heater core (again, water ran through in both directions with no stoppage). 3 gallons of undilluted antifreeze was put into the overflow bottle to be topped off with water...the coolant went in and stopped. Engine was started to force coolant from bottle...coolant backed up into the bottle and out the top. Heater core inlet hose is hot and outlet hose not very warm if at all. Upper radiator hose is soft. Didn't check lower radiator hose as I was a bit peeved and slammed the hood closed and called it a night. I have been throwing money at this thing that I do not have and am at my wits end with it.
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