I threw a code on my truck for a P0611 FICM. I checked it out and I had 48 Volts DC with key in the on position and 47.8 Volts DC with the truck running. I know that if it is fried, the second reading should be below 45 VDC.
View 3 RepliesTruck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 05 f250 6.0 that currently will not start and no smoke. Replaced batteries and tested ficm. At initial injector buzz voltage drops to 18.8 then jumps back to 48.8 and drops again to 18.8 while cranking. My question is if the voltage is this low does the pcb still just need a resolder or are there components that will need to be replaced?
View 1 RepliesAfter finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
I've got a 2004 f250 4x4 crew cab that is driving me nuts. It runs great, but sporadically it will just quit running. Tach drops to zero. Engine is still turning, because it usually restarts by itself as long as I am moving over about 45. If not I can pull over, put it in park and restart it. Sometimes it sets codes, never the same ones and usually not something even related to the problem (transfer case solenoid for example). Most times it doesn't set any codes. I have changed the plugs and coil packs on all cylinders. Right now it is showing the P1000 code so I am suspicious of the pcm or the wiring to it. I think the tach is the only thing dropping out on the instruments and all the instruments are powered through the pcm.
View 3 RepliesI've researched the heck out of P0401.... I have an 04' F250 w/a 6.0, 61k miles, completely stock. I have been getting a reoccurring P0401 EGR flow CEL. I've checked all the fittings and tubes and see no cracks or breaks. I've checked the exhaust system and no signs of leaking soot anywhere except on the passenger side exhaust manifold, there is some minor deposits of soot near the first two cylinders, but that's it.
Everything else looks good and I can't hear any hissing either. I am not getting any white smoke from the exhaust. I pulled my EGR valve and looked at it, it looked fine. I cleaned it off and put it back in. Then I got a new one just to see if that fixed it. I am missing a little coolant. I'm adding maybe a few cups of coolant every few weeks. Truck is always serviced and only repairs was Ford replaced the EGR valve in 2008. When I pull my EGR valve, it is slightly moist in the housing but not wet and no sludge. Again, the EGR valve had a nice layer of soot, no build up or sludge on it....
2006 F250, 6.0, AT, 59K. Week and a half ago, started cranking slow. I charged the batteries and checked with a professional load tester. Both batteries good, but voltage was fluctuating and tester said charging system needs service (no battery light). I swapped in a remand alternator as a new was not available that day. It lasted 6 days and this time the battery light was intermittent.
I checked voltage and again it was fluctuating. I swapped in another remand unit and 3 days later, same thing, intermittent battery light and fluctuating voltage. I'm installing a new, not remand unit tomorrow. However, could a bad FICM cause this problem? I noticed that the engine seems louder (not the exhaust note) at idle. This truck is clean and I have no corrosion issues. What is the right direction to test the FICM?
Ok says injector pressure sensor low first guess was the upgrade to the blue spring. Did that code clear for a day then comes back on looking at the hfcm but kinda unsure? Came on after we got the real cold snap and i had to buy a block heater I don't see one on here i also added diesel 911 to the tank this is a 05 f250 w 6.0l....
View 2 RepliesMy 99 F250 with a V10 had an abs light come on and then it would go off. Now the ABS light stays on and it drove fine for a little while but the other night the Service Engine light came on along with the ABS light. Tranny was shifting harsh, winding out and I scanned the codes and got P0500. Is it the sensor on top of the rear differential or is it the ABS light causing the problem?
View 2 RepliesWhere to find the PCM 4 digit code on 2001 F250 superduty/v10- Lariat?
View 3 RepliesEngine light and error code for tps occasionally comes on , then stays off a while. parts store said it was ok (shows full range) , but ford has an update for computer to fix. engine is v10 and parts store erased code and it hasnt come back. the only indication that something was wrong is the light coming on and once on the interstate at high speed , then the off ramp slow down, the engine seemed to want to stall as if engine not matching actual speed for a few seconds, then it was ok again. I was out of town and the mechanic that looked at it told me to go to Ford for an update. He tested the tps and said it was ok.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 f250 5.4l 2v with 165000. just two weeks ago i went to start up the truck on a job site to take lunch and it was running really rough. I talked with a mechanic at my shop and he said that it sounded like the aic or that i needed plugs. I went and bought aic and plugs and installed them all in one day. I unhooked the battery before i did any work and have changed the coil packs about 3-4 months ago when it was jerking at highway speeds. I am at a loss.
Read so much on the site about could be this or that and cant afford to through money at it like the govt does. I replaced the ait(air intake temp sensor) and the ect(engine coolant sensor) after i got a code from oreillys that said p0113 which is high input on it. I have read it can be so many things and it seems to be running rich because i am getting about half of mileage i was getting before problem started. i need a fix soon as i must drive the truck to work everyday which is a 52 mile trip total.
My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
I've got a 99 F-250 6.8L V10 manual 4WD with no speedometer or odometer. The ABS and MIL lights are on. Code is P0500 - VSS malfunction.
This started when the previous owner hooked up some large LED backup lights to the factory wiring. Something smoked under the dash. He then moved them to a relay-switched +12V feed. He reported that the backup light fuse did not blow.
Ive tested the backup light fuse and the recently replaced VSS. Fuse is good and the VSS tests ok for Ohms and gives AC voltage when the tone ring turns. I pulled the fuse panel, GEM, and PCM. There's no visible damage anywhere there. I'm stumped. Tomorrow, I'll dig for any melted wiring under the dash....
I recently purchased a 2010 F250 Super Duty and would like to set a keypad code. I have looked every where I can think of except behind the radio.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 F-250 6.2l with a P0456 code. Is there a common fix for this issue?
View 9 Replies I have a 2005 F250 with the 5.4. This truck has been one thing after another, as you can tell from my other posts. The problem this time is, if it cranks hard to start because it's cold(can be anywhere from as high as 32, but usually in the teens) it will start just fine, then several minutes later throw the check engine light. Put the scanner on, like clockwork, 4 codes, always cylinder 1 misfire pending, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions pending, cylinder 1 misfire confirmed, misfire on first 1,000 revolutions confirmed.
Sometimes you can hear a slight lope in the idle when it does this. Clear the codes, runs perfectly fine. It will never do it after it's been started for the day. Some days you would think for sure it would throw it when it's frigid and the winds been blowing on it, it doesn't bother, other days you wouldn't think it would, and it does.Can the computer think that since it didn't start right up, it misfired?
2006 F-250 6.0... I'm getting a P0470 error code and no boost, The unison ring is free and clear, the Turbo will not create boost till about 2000 RPM on the road. If I unplug the VGT there is no change in the turbo.
When the vehicle is started there is no tone change in the exhaust. This just started after I replaced a dummy plug in the oil rail. I checked all the connectors as well. I cleaned the EBP and tube.
What may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.
So yesterday I decided to wash my truck and after taking care of that I took it for a short drive and the tranny started acting funny. Check engine light comes on and the code is P0500 . It calls for a VSS but I cant locate it. Also the fact that it did after washing the truck is making me think its a wiring issue... F250 SD 5.4 4x4 ....
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 F250 with the V10 and 42000 miles. Lost*power*while pulling a trailer. Couldn't get over 30 mph. Tried turning back home and lost all*power*and would barely idle. Fuel filter good air filter good. Code P0300 came up. Towed it back to the house and then couldn't even get it to idle. Wouldn't throttle up past about 2800 rpm. Cleaned MAF sensor and nothing. Somewhere during all that P0174 code came up and misfire cylinder 10. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. Now when trying to crank, it barely turns over, yet battery is good. Opened air filter cover after getting it to start one time and there was some light smoke coming out. Also while barely keeping it running for a little bit, the catalytic converter on the driver side was fire hot and the other side I could grab with my hand.
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