Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 F250 - Check Gauge Light Comes On When Stopped Or Coming To A Stop
Oct 28, 2016
I have my 2004 f250 6.8L. Recently my truck has been having issue with the oil needle. When im stopped or coming to a stop my Check Gauge light comes on and my oil needle drops all the way down. As soon i step on gas it goes right back up. What could it be?
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My dads 05 f250 6.0 PSD. He says he'll take off in the morning and the fuel gauge will randomly drop to empty and trigger the low fuel light, but then also the Check Engine Light will come on. My brother did a code scan and no codes come up. Where we should be looking to remedy this one?
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I have the infamous P0461 check engine light coming up. I filled it with Techron and even purchased Techron additive with a full tank and it's not going away. I've also replaced gas cap with OEM brand new yesterday and light keeps coming on after 2-10 miles.
Truck is stock. Bone stock. The fuel gauge is reading accurately and not fluctuating or jumping or behaving erratically. I checked all fuses and all fuses are good (under dash and on floor in cabin).
2010 f250 lariat 5.4 V8 4x4 super cab 189,XXX miles.
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Am I the only one who thinks the tire pressure monitoring system is a silly feature? Is there any way to delete this and stop the light from coming up on the dash? I want to do new wheels and tires on my 2008 f250 and I don't want to deal with the tpms. Can it be tuned out from the computer?
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I have a 2003 F250, 4x4, 5.4L and today my fuel gauge stopped working. I don't know if it had anything to do with a stall, I was on an exit ramp and the truck cut off, I quickly restarted and no issues after that. Other than the fuel gauge not working at this point.
I looked at the fuse panel diagram and there is no fuse for just the fuel gauge. The only thing I see is #35, instrument cluster. The rest of my instruments are working, so what else would cause the fuel gauge to stop working? It had a little over a half of a tank before the stall, after the stall it went down to less than half. I filled up shortly later and it's just stuck at less than half.
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Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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A few months ago I had a battery go bad. When I started the 2004 F250 6.0 it barely started. After that my transmission gauge became the engine coolant gauge and the engine coolant gauge became the transmission gauge. I tried disconnecting batteries but that did not work. I have the Scan Gauge tool and confirm the gauges are reading correctly but just swapped. So I'm wondering if the is a reset procedure for instrument panel.
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I have an F-250 diesel 2004 and about six months ago it started acting really crazy. Basically most all of the dashboard electronics stopped working like the speedometer , odometer, gauges, etc. additionally all of the interior lights, and the radio stopped working. Now it looks a lot like the attached picture when I'm driving the truck. All of the lights are lit up on the dash panel but nothing actually works. I thought at first that a bunch of fuses might be blown but I have replaced nearly every fuse that has anything to do with any of the affected systems. What the issue might be.
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I have a 2006 f250 5.4 4wd with 5r110w trans. Check engine light was blinking and then one day the tranny just stopped working in all gears. Engine code p0751 came up, shift solenoid "A". Changed it, code went away and still no gears. Checked pump pressure, good in all gears, all I can think of now is TCM....
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I have a 2001 F250, 5.4, 4X4. My ignition key stuck in the start position and when I pulled it back to the run position, everything seemed ok. As I started down the road, my speedometer stopped working and my overdrive light was flashing. Also my turn signals had stopped working and my A/C clutch didn't engage. Figured I burnt a fuse. I looked in both the under dash and power distribution box and all seemed well. I checked the fuse for the turn signals/flasher and it was fine. The flashers worked. Thought I might have fried something so I replaced the ignition lock and switch. Also my service engine light came on throwing a code for the vehicle speed sensor.
Looking for solutions on this forum and the internet, I learned that the turn signal switch could have gone bad and the VSS sensor is on the top of the rear dif and an easy fix. Well replaced the sensor but nothing changed. So I went back to the fuse box. Examined every fuse, big and small and I found a 10a with a small space. This was #24 under the dash. From the manual, "#24, 10A, A/C clutch, Blend Door Actuator, Trailer Tow Battery Charge Relay Coil, Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System (4WABS), Turn Signal." Replaced it and everything went back to normal. Turn signals work, A/C clutch works, no flashing overdrive light and speedometer works. All from a 10A fuse. If you have any of these symptoms examine all the fuses carefully. There's a 20A fuse for turn/hazard lamps and this other one buried that's only 10A.
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Just replaced the alternator in my 1993 Ford F250. How do I reset my check engine light? It keeps coming on after I drive for roughly 5 to 10 minutes.
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1-11-11 built F250 with the 6.2. 45K miles. Took it to my local HD truck shop to have the code read. The reader said "Evap pressure sensor switch malfunction", "vac above pressure limit wouldn't bleed". He cleared it and it has now come back.
1. Where is said switch located? Is this something I can do as I'm a seasoned wrench but I'm not dropping the tank in my driveway in the winter.
2. Is it in the tank or outside the tank?
3. Has there been any TSBs or recalls on this before I attempt to repair?
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So yesterday I decided to wash my truck and after taking care of that I took it for a short drive and the tranny started acting funny. Check engine light comes on and the code is P0500 . It calls for a VSS but I cant locate it. Also the fact that it did after washing the truck is making me think its a wiring issue... F250 SD 5.4 4x4 ....
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My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
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My father-in-law has a 2008 f-250 with the 5.4. as he was driving a while back all the gauges of the dash quit. The engine still kept running without any noticeable difference but when he shut the engine off and tried to restart, it wouldn't even crank but the security light was flashing. He tried starting it again a few hours later and it started just like normal and ran fine.
He has had this problem occur several times in the last few months, but the other day it repeated the problem again and would not restart for about 5 days. He has tried charging the batteries, changing relays, checking all fuses and finding none blown, scanned it with his code reader, and checked the steering column for bare or rubbed wires.
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I have a annoying check coolant additive warning light that wont go away, is their another way to turn off the light other than the button on the steering wheel? I have searched the forum but have had no luck, my coolant level is at it's proper level.
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Just this morning I tried to remote start my '13 F250 6.7 and all i got was the doors lock and a two honks. The two honks are usually when there is a door left open when you click the lock button two times but all of my doors were locked. After I started the truck with the key and took it out to go run a errand I noticed the check engine light turned on. Could this be connected or just a coincidence?
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2002 F250 SD 4X4 5.4L. 4.5 inch pro comp lift tire size 305/75/R16. K&N cold air set up. 208,000kms
I know the truck does horrible on gas but lately is been getting worse, maybe I am getting 350km to a tank. Mixed highway city driving. Sounds like I might have a vacuum leak somewhere but I have no engine light. I've had the truck since last year and put about 10,000km. on it done regular oil changes .. brake maintenance no motor work so far.
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I have a 05 f250 with a 5.4 I'm having issues with I was driving along the truck started chugging along and the check engine light came on so I checked it with my bully dog the codes that came up were p0192 which is fuel pressure sensor circuit low the next one is p0452 is evaporative emission pressure sensor switch low also came up with p0191 tonight haven't dug into that yet.
I change out the pressure sensor switch from a buddies truck didn't make a difference put my sensor in his truck his worked fine I clean the throttle position sensor and The maf also put a new air filter on not throwing a misfire code but seems like it may be. A little background on the truck it's a 5.4 3valve with a bully dog tuner, mufflers been removed added straight pipe mechanically that's all that's done
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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