Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Clicking Noise After Engine Shut Off / Codes P0683 And P0404
Jul 12, 2016
I bought a 2004 excursion 4wd 6.0 EB Excursion a few weeks ago and I noticed it making clicking noises after I shut the engine off yesterday.
Its been throwing codes P0683 and P0404 intermittently. (they clear themselves after a day or so and dont reappear for another three or four days)
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2004 F-250 FX4 SB 5.4 V8 140k
Issue: rattling/clicking noise from passenger front wheel area at speeds lower than 15MPH, made worse under light braking and/or turns to the right.
Clicking sound is speed dependant.
Spindle? Hub? Balljoint? Sway joint? Rotor Issue?
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I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
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Whats the clicking noise going on behind my dashboard? It's constant even with everything shut off in my'02 F350. The truck has been laid up for three years and I'm getting it ready to move...
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I have a 1999 F350 7.3 truck and when I shut off the engine I get a small drip of water (not antifreeze or oil) for about 20 seconds and then it stops. It's coming down from the passenger side somewhere under under the wheel well back around the firewall. Everything in the truck appears to be running normal and all fluids are at normal levels.
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I have a slight problem and don't know how serious it is. I own a 2003 F350 with a lift kit. After my drive shaft shattered last September. due to a U-Joint a clicking noise started up in the front axle area after we locked the hubs so we could crawl it down the road out of traffic.
What would be the likely causes and how much would a typical repair/replace cost?
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Diesel truck starts fine. Idles up in cold. Runs fine. Sitting in cab I hear a random clicking. This sound comes and goes. Driving down the highway at 70 it will do it. After an hour or so it won't do it any more. If I shut the truck off and start it again the random clicking will resume it comes and goes? Where to start looking. It sounds like the click from dead batteries but the batteries will turn over engine and start with no problems.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 4x4 with the 5.4L I bought it cheap and runs well. While going through doing the stuff that needs attention I noticed the 4x4 isn't workijg. It has whatbappears to be some cheap maybe plastic locking hubs and the manual pull stick onj the floor for engaging the 4x4.I can pull it into 4H and 4L, the dash lights confirming come on but the front wheels will not lock in.
One of the cheapo hubs looks like someone clamped vice grips on it to try and turn the and doesnt seem to totally lock in. The drivers side hub sounds like it is lock in but makes a terrible lound clicking noise.
They may be the stock hubs, have no markings to designate the direction to lock and unlock and do appear to be somt sort of plastic hub.... Are the hubs my problem since I can manually pull it into 4x4 and I can see the 4x4 shaft spin but the tires are not engaging?
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I recently pulled the stock tp38 off. The reason for rebuilding is the turbo started making an awful screeching on start up and shutdown when the compressor is at a low rpm and starts to wobble.
The shaft has 1/2 in and out play with 1/8 in every direction. the compressor has some wear marks but no chips, the turbine has some good chunks missing. from what i can see there are no marks on the housings.
What should i put in it as far as new compressor and turbine/shaft. nothing that requires machining. I am not looking to run more boost or anything, just looking to reduce spool up time if possible. Any specific rebuild kit? what turbine and compressor should I go with?
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I'm in having emission problems with my 2010 F250 lariat 6.4 diesel truck my DPF filter keeps getting clogged up engine just shut off on me then I sent it to get cleaned professionally got it installed drive it for 20 miles and my pick up shut off on me and left me stranded and I can't seem to pass inspection...
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I have a 2004 ford f250 5.4 and ithe makes a Humming noise only at idle. I have checked the fan clutch. it seems to be good and does not spin freely. I was thinking maybe idle air control valve but the truck idles like normal and does not stall. the sound does go away when squeezing the air hose doing today the IAC but comes back as soon as you let off. can it still be the idle air control valve if idles fine and doesn't stall?
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I have an 04 f250 with a 5.4 I smelled something like burning and the truck shut down. the fuse panel was warm. after a min or so it starts back up never know how far till it stalls again.
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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So, yesterday when I got home I stopped at the barn to unload a few bails of hay and when I got back in to crank it, nothing happened. I turned the key and nothing, so I figured I would just worry about it today. However, when I turned the key back to off and started to take it out all sorts of stuff started to happen. There was a clicking noise and a dinging, not like when the door is open. It was quicker. Also, when I turned my key back on none of my dash lights or radio came on. Nothing happens now, except the strange clicking when the key is off or out. The first thing I thought of was the GEM or fuse box.
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I remember seeing a post a while back stating that the reverse sensor would make a clicking noise (when you're ear is up against the sensor) when working properly, I only had one working but I figured I'd replace them all since the 4th one was sure to go out . Fast forward to using two different sets of sensors, and not a single has worked or made that clicking noise like I would assume it should be. Can an aftermarket head unit cause these sensors to not work properly or have I just gotten two bum sets?
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My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
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Example, if I'm turning the wheel to the left with the left turn signal on there will be a LOUD click, click, click ect. sound from the column. The sound is louder than the turn signal relay and can be heard with the radio on.
Today is the third time I've brought it in to have fixed and now they tell me it is "normal". They came to the conclusion that it is "normal" because two other trucks on their lot make a noticeable clicking sound and one is just as loud as mine. However, My truck JUST STARTED making the noise a few months ago and was quiet when I originally bought it.
I know this is not a big problem ,but it is annoying and I want it fixed. Anyways, my Ford dealer had bailed out on me so how do I fix it myself?
Can you hear the column switch clicking ALOUD in your truck?
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2003 F350 4.4 5.4L auto. The front hub assemblies, seals, axle ujoints and upper/lower ball joint were all replaced. I bought all the parts gave them to the mechanic and told him if there's problems call me. I took a week off went to MS and he never called. I go to get truck he tells me, the bearings in the hubs are not spinning freely causing the axles to spin. I checked the hubs they are in the unlock position (Warn manual hubs). Originally auto hubs. Now i have the whole front diff spinning and the front drive shaft is spinning too. Clacking and clicking from the front wgen driving. Oh he said the front drive shaft ujoint was bad also. I paid $600 to have it all replaced and i get it back wrong. Is there something i need to check on the hubs that he maybe did wrong? Or is it possible i was sold the wrong hub assemblies?
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So my truck is making a rapid clicking type of noise out of the vents when the ac is turned on.
The noise sounds like a thin piece of paper getting hit by a fan (that's what I hear) It started during this past winter when I would cold start the truck. but as the heater warmed up it went away completely. well now since its warm out I am running the ac now, and it blows cold but doesn't have a lot of volume to it it seems. but being the problem was when the truck was cold running the cold ac makes the noise permanent.
The blend door acutator is working as should (i can only assume the blend door is ok) the vacuum lines are good and vacuum signal is good.
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I have a 1999 Ford V-10 Triton 6.8L engine with 100,000 miles in my Motorhome. Service engine soon light has been a problem for the past couple months. I have replaced the O2 sensor on the passenger side and the EGR valve. After that I drove for about 300+ miles continuously and stopped to get gas. Light stayed off and I thought I had it fixed but after starting up again the light came back on. The codes are P0171 and 0174.
I had the air filter replaced before changing the sensor and valve and mechanic left the Mass air flow sensor out of the socket I had a sluggish engine and at the time I thought I sucked water into the filter, I was driving in a pouring rain, this sensor plugs into the air intake above the filter correct?) I plugged that back in. What is my next move because I reset the service engine soon light and it runs great then the light comes back on after I shutdown and restart.
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I've got a 2004 F450 that I'm loving, but suddenly having an issue getting it into gear. To get it out of park and into another gear I've got to turn the key a little father towards start (somewhere in between normal after start position and actually engaging the starter) and then the column shifter will actually let me get out of park and into another gear. Once I've done this there is no problem moving between gears. Last, this has to be related since it started at the same time - when I'm in cruise control it takes a greater amount of force on the brake to get the cruise control to shut off. When it finally does, it makes a loud click, almost a bang. If I only lightly push on the brake it won't kick off the cruise control and the engine will increase power to keep the speed and fight me on the brake.
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