Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2004 - Accelerator Won't Respond In Drive - Throttle Position Sensor?
Jun 28, 2011
Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
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I got an f-350 drw it is sluggish on take off feels like a miss. Higher speeds when you step on it. It seems o.k I have been told it could be a crank shaft positioning sensor any in put on this. I have changed the fuel filters, cleaned the e.g.r. valve and yes it was pretty clogged,air filter seems to be good. And 1 last thing for now where would c.s.p.s. be located...
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I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
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2004 f250 6.0 4x4 no throttle at all, no cel, idles and runs just fine just no throttle, had a diesel mechanic look at it and he couldn't pull any codes, where to start, checked all wiring, checked connections, changed the EBP sensor and tube (read that was a fix multiple times) no change
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Yesterday went to fill up ($4.05 a gallon geezz!) and noticed that after getting back into the cab, the fuel gauge still showed almost empty. So after yelling a few expletives, I looked again and noticed the gauge starting to make it's way up the dial. It took almost 30 min. before it showed almost full. I'm not sure what the problem is, as the gauge seems to still function. I don't drive the truck much as I use it as a tow vehicle. However, I do try and take it for a spin about 3-4 times a month just to exercise it. I was wondering if the fuel has started to gel and that is the reason for the slow fuel gauge response. Should I add a fuel conditioner/cleaner now that I have a full tank?
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Yesterday the Check Engine light came on, the code was P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Error, Performance/Range. I have not yet had the pedal replaced related to the recall (bad me), is the sensor incorporated in the new assembly or is this separate and I'll need to replace it?
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I have a 2004 F350 with a broken drive shaft.
Got the original shaft off and it has the following part number (2C34-4K145-DNA)
but I've since learned that the part number has changed but the only info I could get was 2???. 4R602DQA.
Trying to find the part number so I can find it under 750.00 from the dealer
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Ford catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed : [URL] .....
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
NewOldTPS.jpg?t=1269362105
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
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2004 f350 sensor switch will now and then let me turn it "on", but turns itself off immediately. Has never worked since I owned truck.
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I have a 2004 F350 Crew Cab DRW 4WD 6.0L.
The front drive shaft is making a high pitched metallic squeal while the truck is in motion. I thought it might be the universal joints but after lubricating the joints, I can still hear the squeal and it sounds like it is coming from inside the drive shaft. I also hear this squeal when I spin the drive shaft by hand.
I have quite a few questions about these drive shafts:
- What would cause a squeal from within the drive shaft?
- Are there any replaceable parts or do I have to get a new drive shaft?
- How do I identify the correct drive shaft part for my truck? Seems like there are a LOT of different models on the web.
- Are any of the aftermarket drive shafts any good? Any to avoid?
- Is this a DIY job or will I need to take it in to the shop?
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One of our trucks, 2004 F350 Powerstroke, my company truck, recently the last snow even we had, my tow haul mode would pop on and off almost evertime I shifted from drive to reverse while plowing. I didn't want it on, it just kept poping on and off. Thought maybe the button was stuck, but it moved like normal. My other thought was there is a loose connection in the shifter or column causing it to go on and off.
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So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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I have had this truck for several years. I have only had a few issues. I've heard of engine noise issues but I have never had any until now. My 5.4 is making a knocking sound that just started. It goes away if I tap the accelerator. It has over 200,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles. No additives and always conventional 5-20. Is this a serious issue? I've seen people talk about using thicker oil but I'm very hesitant.
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I have roughly 104k miles. The weather is trying to get colder. Lows of 45 highs of 80 right now. Last week I was accelerating on to the highway and the truck seemed to have trouble shifting. I hit the accelerator and it did not shift. It would continue to increase in speed but very slowly and would even tend to kind of sputter a little. My engine light came on and has gone off and on several times since then. This has occurred several more times and is always when I hit the highway.
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I have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
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I'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
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So, I'm slowly but surely eliminating a terribly shaky front end on my 2002 F-250 7.3L 4x4. First was a new carrier joint on the front drive shaft. Didn't work much, but the shop said the darn thing was falling apart. Next thing I did was new wheel bearings and manual hubs. Less vibration for sure. But the last remaining issue, in terms of vibration, is that when I let go of the Accelerator going at any speed above 60 MPH, it makes a horrible horrible noise, and I could feel a vibration. It shakes the whole truck, but I can very noticeably feel it directly in the gas pedal. It's really only an issue during deceleration. What could it be??? Drive shaft U-joints? Torque Converter? Something else in the Front End? Something in the engine even?? I don't exactly have the funds to tackle every possible solution.
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I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
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