Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - When To Change Injectors
Nov 9, 2013
03 F250 250k+ miles has a sputter when lugging, instead of down shifting just lug it for a sec and feels like a bad coil pack missing or water in gas miss but smooths out as soon as rpm's are up.
How long can you go on a set of factory injectors?
A friend gave me a set of pink injectors from his mustang but I have orange ones in the truck. Just wondering if the swap is possible and what effects it would have. A chart I pulled up showed that the orange ones are #19 and the pink ones are #22.
Still getting around 13 mpg but losing power, wondered if they are worn and putting in to much fuel, or just not giving the proper mist.
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I have 1999 7.3, stock. I am getting oil to injectors on passenger side but none on drivers side.
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty with the 5.4 liter gasoline engine. I started on a 120 mile trip last week and got about mile from home when it just shut down. I walked back home and got the wife's Tahoe and pulled it back home.
I got it in the shop and started to try & figure what had happened. I'm not a mechanic but I am a fair DIYer so I spent a lot of time with my friend GOOGLE. I originally expected the problem to be the fuel pump. I could not check fuel pressure because this model does not have the port in order to hook up the fuel pressure gauge. I could hear the pump run when the ignition was turned on so I looked a little deeper. I checked that it was firing and even shot some starting fluid into the breather to see if it would run with that, which it did.
At this point I turned back to the fuel supply. I learned from google that the injectors were supposed to have a constant 12 volts so out came the meter and low and behold no voltage on any of the injectors. I had already checked EVERY fuse on the truck and didn't find any burnt ones. I took the meter and rechecked all that had anything to do with the PCM (by reading the fuse description from the owners manual). My old eyes had actually missed the burnt one. Number 23 a 30 amp fuse. I replaced it and it immediately blew also.
I started checking continuity to ground on the injector plugs and found that I had a direct short to ground. I needed a wiring diagram for the injector circuit. I searched and searched some more for one that matched my vehicle. I even bought a repair manual from my local Auto Zone. This book didn't even have the diagram I needed! I finally found a diagram From Auto Zone's website for a 2000 expedition.
It at least gave me an idea of what other items were powered by this same circuit. I learned that the 02 sensors are on the same circuit so I crawled under the truck & started searching. I found that the up stream 02 sensor on bank 2 had gotten against the exhaust and created the short. I unplugged it and rechecked continuity to ground and found that my shot was no longer there. I took the sensor out repaired the burnt wire and reinstalled. I hooked everything back up and the ole truck fired right up.
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I have a 2004 Ford F-250 6.0 power stroke, the previous owner got water in the tank, rusted the injectors, and destroyed the pump, I changed the pump and 2 injectors, it still died. It has 300K miles on, pretty high. Right now all symptom is the motor is starving for fuel, because the injectors are leaking, getting air in it. When I pull the fuel filter out, it is full of dirt, And swollen up because of water. So, I am planning to flush the tank, get rid of the water and then replace the injectors. Could there be any damage on the motor ? Engine problems? I know 6.0 is a bad design, but apart from getting rid of it, how could I fix ?
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Circumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
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2007 F350 6.0 .. I let the truck sit for about a week went out to start it truck cranked right up then died now the truck wont start truck was running fine until this I wasn't having any starting problems. the codes are all eight injectors low circuit tested ficm had 48.3 volts...
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2005 Ford F-250 6.0 FX4 Quadcab
Where is the cord to plug in to heat injectors on this model? Or does this model not come with the cord to plug in?
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I just bought a 2014 6.7 and the dealer claims every 10k. What is your alls opinion for optimum performance and engine life?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I change my own oil. I've done it at 2K, and 5K. Odometer just hit 5500 (Had it almost a year, Man I gotta get out and drive it some more!). Now when I start it up the "engine oil change soon" message appears. I can hit reset on the steering wheel, and it goes off, but the next time I start up, it's back. How can I let the truck know that the oils been changed already?
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Bought a truck that has the speedometer face that reads KMH on the top in the big numbers and MPH in little numbers. Ideally, is there an decal or plate I can affix in front of the KMH plate that will reverse those so that MPH is the more prominent? Or, worst case, where can I get a new plate for the instrument cluster. It's a 2012 F-350 XLT gas.
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My truck: 2004 F250 SD 5.4L 191k auto lifted 3" 315/75/16 tires 3.73 rear. When I got the truck with 149k it got between 12.5-13.5 in town and 15.5-16.5 long hwy trips. Also the truck could get up and go no problems. Would easily go up hills without kicking down gears and shooting up in the rpms. Been pulling a 32ft trailer last two years and was getting between 6-8.5 mpg pulling it. The Truck is now slow to move up hill even when not towing, kicks down a lot and is getting horrible mileage. I could get 370 miles on a tank before, now I get 226 miles to a tank. Getting around 8.7-9.5 mpg in town and 10.8 hwy.
Two months ago I blew two plugs and had that repaired. (Gas mileage was falling before that happened and didn't change after it got fixed.)
Recently changed fuel filter, plugs, air filter and oil. Visually inspected MAF and I can't see any build up on it. Looks really clean.
So here is my questions... What else can I do to fix the gas issue. I am thinking about going down to a 285 or 295 series tire, but don't want the truck to look goofy with small tires on. 3" lift. So what else? Did someone say maybe the cat was starting to clog, but wouldn't that throw codes? Would a true cold air intake improve the performance?
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Should brake fluid be changed periodically? If so, how often?
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I just changed my batteries in my truck. Twas the originals still in it. Afterwards, everything works except the radio. I tried everything and no radio. The clock is there when I press the On/Off/Volume. When I press the phone, the display says "no phone". But otherwise I get nothing. I can't even get in the menu to set the clock. I checked the fuses related to the Amp, Subwoofer, radio, Satellite, etc. I did not see anything in the fused under the hood that could be related.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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Got a 2015 6.2. No where near time to change plugs, with alot accessories i have installed it would suck if the cab has to come off. Can the plugs be changed with the cab on?
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I have a 2014 f 350 super cab xlt. Ford design engineers should be ashamed. But really who has installed the older (2009 ish) ford seat in there trucks for a little more comfort? How much fabrication was needed? Hate to say it but if I cant put the older truck seats in I'm going to buy GMC. These seats really suck.
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2008 f250 auto
is the trans filter change possible?
i didnt see this in the tech folder and no videos for a 2008
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2003 f250 6" lift on 35s. How to lift the suspension to change out spring bushings? Was thinking using two chain falls on tow hooks on the front, any easier, safe, cheaper way. I have a farm jack but need to weld a plate on bottom of it for more support...
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Just picked up new 2014 F350 lariat today and I can't figure out how to change the keypad code. I enter the factory code and hit add, but when I enter a new 5 digit code it wont let me hit enter.
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For those of you struggling like I was a few minutes ago... Here is a procedure that worked for me.
1. Key ON.
2. Select OK to get rid of OIL CHANGE REQUIRED message.
3. Scroll down to SETTINGS and push OK.
4. Scroll down to VEHICLE and push OK.
5. Scroll down to OIL LIFE RESET and push OK.
6. Scroll to any % other than what you want and push OK.
7. Scroll to what % you want and push OK.
8. Key OFF.
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