Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 - Tranny Real Rough When Put It In Reverse?
Jan 4, 2014
Went for a drive today in my Wifes 2003 F-250 5.4 automatic, Parked it and went for a hike, came back, started the truck ,put the it in reverse and it was running real rough.Put it in Drive and still running rough, figured i would put the truck in low and see what happens.It ran fine.Got home and did a visual inspection on the tranny, didn't see anything that jumped out at me.The fluid was fine. What this might be?
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Rebuilt trany after losing all gears filled the tranny and while cycling through the gear everything seemed to fine took it around the block topped off the fluid and went for a drive and it will not shift out of second and i lost reverse. What did i do wrong?
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2006 E-350 Dually Ambulance Chassis with the 6.0... Approx 125000 miles.
Recently, the truck started an issue. its an every once in awhile thing but has been doing it more recently. The OD light will start flashing and the vehicle will start to have clunking in the tranny and start shifting rough. ABS kicks in making it hard to stop. Once you turn the truck off and back on, Its fine until it does it again. Im connecting to a scanner tomorrow to see if i get any codes.
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I've got a 2003 F350 CCSB SRW V10 Auto 4X4 3.73 LS diff. The tranny doesn't always go into overdrive when I get about 40 or 50, even 60. I went down the freeway the other day at 65 in 3rd turning about 2500 rpms. Am I hurting anything here? One thing I have noticed is the overdrive light on the shifter does not work. Light doesn't come on. Leads me to believe that there is a frayed wire in the steering column. Could that cause the tranny to act funny? The cruise control works, so I'm thinking the speed sensor on the diff is ok, but I could be wrong.
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2006 F250 5.4l 4x4, long box, quad cab
Current issue: No overdrive / slipping into neutral / rough going into reverse
Codes: I don't have exact code but will get (p0755)... but shows shifting solenoid B malfunction ( this is the OD/Reverse one) check engine light on and tow light blinking
So whats been done: shifting solenoid B (OD/Reverse) was replaced (used part) inspected valve body and o rings... all good... worked for a week... then exact same issue. Transmission showed no signs of gear damage, oil looks good
Next: Replaced shifting solenoid B again (new one) and transmission wiring harness. Still no change, same codes. Seems to be having a communication issue between transmission and PCM? However continuity of wires and connectors seems ok.
One more piece of interesting info. Every-time before the truck slips I hear clicking coming from the fuse/relay panel under dash drivers side. No clicking no slipping... however never goes into OD at any time.
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The 2011 have been out for awhile now. How about some of you with the 6.2L engines sharing your gas mileage. I have not seen anything but better than last year's model in advertisements.
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Ok, I have a 2004 F250 FX4 4wd 5.4L with almost 160K miles.
Sometimes, mostly when it's hot, and I go to restart it, it will crank and crank and crank, so I let off and then try again and it will start. Then other times I will have to do it 3-5 times before it starts, or it will start with real low RPM's for a second then cut out. I have been told this truck does NOT have a Fuel Pump Driver Module (My previous F-150 did). So I'm thinking the fuel pump is just temperamental. Having this issue or replaced a fuel pump before? What brands, places, etc. are good to buy at a decent price?
I tried to look online and was confused about a "midship, rear, and center tank". All I know is my truck is an extended cab and has about a 29 gallon tank.
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I have a 2000 Ford-F250, V10, 6.8 liter Gas. The issue is that when I try to start the vehicle it will start, but then start to idle real low and then die. If I try to restart sometime it will and sometimes you have to let it sit. I can also pump the gas and it will sometimes start.
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I bought a nice 03 F250 V10 with apx 170k on Friday... After I got home (it was about a 4hr drive) I went to back up into the driveway and heard a loud (deep) rub noise.. Sounds like metal on metal... After a few feet or at a faster pace it goes away. I've tried seeing if it changed or went away depending on how the wheels were turned but it did not make a difference. At first I thought it was coming from the hub but now I'm thinking it could be driveshaft related..
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2008 F250 Lariat ... A/C is blowing real weak in all modes and temperatures. Did some reading and found that the evaporator and heater core could be clogged. I am just going to go ahead and assume taking the dash out of the truck and replacing both heater core and evap core would be the best fix. On to my question.. Where are the main mounting points for the dash?
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I have a 2011 F-350 diesel crew cab dealer said I had a radiator leak so they replaced it now after I shut truck off it starts humming real loud like its relieving pressure my temps and everything else seems to be ok...
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I have a 2003 f350 4WD that studders or skips only when in reverse. I noticed it the other day while plowing. The noise seems to be coming from the transfer case but only in reverse. If I go real easy it won't happen but it will happen if I gas it a little. Happens both with hubs locked or unlocked. BTW it is a manual shift transfer case and manual hubs.
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I've got a 2003 6.0 that's got a rough idle and low power situation. Doesn't matter hot or cold it has a hard start issue but when it finally starts it has a rough idle, sometimes it has low power on take off but not always. FICM has 48.8 volts coming out, exhaust just had a new y-pipe (had a cracked bellow) absolutely no smoke coming out. When I drive it hard it's like a rocket no rough spots just did oil with filters and fuel filters, blue spring upgrade, and cleaned out the turbo.
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I bought it and changed the fuel filter and it was dirty. Then ran a tank of gas with seafoam and then with lucas fuel injector cleaner. Still nothing. It idles like its missing and as long as you are light on the pedal it revs up fine but if you're heavy on the throttle its. Its has no codes that's why I haven't replaced the coil packs and plugs but they have been ordered. I just thought there would be an engine code if any of the coils or plugs were bad. Looked for a vacuum leak but couldn't find any. The donut gasket on the pass side is bad would that cause it to run shifty with no code.
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Yesterday wife left driveway and about a block away she phone truck "died". It actually starts and the engine is fine - shifting from park to reverse or any gear seems to have no effect. After tow home - i check and there are no codes (using ODBII scanner), the tranny fluid seems full and red. Looking carefully there is a slight rpm drop when idle into reverse or a gear other than neutral or park... but revving engine in any gear doesn't move the truck.
Is there anything else i should check before taking to a tranny shop? Its a 230k mile workhorse for the house but not critical if its down for a week or two. I have had it for 10 years and put the last 40k miles on it. Is there any diagnostic suggested given the symptoms?
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Installing a back up camera and need to locate reverse lights on driver's side at rear bumper. What color wire is for the reverse lights on a 2003 F-350 (truck in my sig)?
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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On a 2003 5.4 f-250 XLT 4 door, long bed
Running 285 tires, none lifted, factory lifted for snow plowing? Did have a plow mount when purchased used.
Had the truck over a year now & love it. My only real dislike is the stiff/ rough ride when empty, which is 80-90% of the time for me.
I know my truck & year have leaf springs with shock dampeners on the front, vs the coil spring and shock dampeners that came in the later years for a much improved ride. Also my struts are "Rough Country" which from what I understand are cheaper shocks. Had a 04 Tacoma I replaced with Bilstein 5100 shocks after leveling it & it was an amazing difference. So that's my only real comparison in shocks. I've read of guys replacing their entire front end for the coils & springs. Not interested in going that deep into it for a better ride. If that's my only option, all be happy with the ride as is.
What are my options if any? Better shocks/struts? Other than my rough country that are on the truck? Purchased used a year back & never felt the "stock struts".
I did find Bilstein 5160' s for my model truck. Link : [URL] .....
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The 2003 F250 5.4 Superduty has no power and keeps stalling. If I floor the gas it just stalls. I've replaced the pcv valve and line, the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump, and cleaned the tank, changed out the gas, added Lucas, and it just won't run right. Desperate, and no codes are coming up...
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I just got an 03 6.0 and a few days ago it developed a rough idle, it takes a little longer to crank and idles fine for 30 seconds to a minute then the rough idle kicks in also I noticed when I drive it the low rpm range is a little choppy and when I come to a stop it goes a little below idle then resumes the rough idle issue. I had it die on the road a day prior to this after it lost complete power at a red light, it started to idle low so I tried to counteract with a little throttle and with the throttle all the way it did nothing, a few minutes it died on the road and took a few minutes to start back up I did a set of filters and it hasn't done it again but I still have the rough idle, I checked the icp sensor and wiring no oil so I cleaned it up a bit and it runs a little smoother.
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i have p0750 shift solenoid A error and p0733 gear 3 ratio error and i was woundering how i fix them problems
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